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I need to get a pump (probably the Nautilis II) but I have a couple of questions first for those that already have them.

 

Going back to the discussion about the controller interface. The Nautilis II already has a main power cord (black cord in Dave's pic). Why can't that cord just plug into a timer? Why would I need the CI?

 

My reservoirs for 2 part will be hanging overhead out of the way with the dosing lines going down into the sump instead of sitting on a floor for the 2-parts to get pulled up and into the sump. Will this be OK for pump operation?

 

I'm only using a cup a day of each part. Would it be better (relatively speaking - not adding anything too fast) to dose over a longer period with smaller tubing or over a shorter period with larger tubing?

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I need to get a pump (probably the Nautilis II) but I have a couple of questions first for those that already have them.

 

Going back to the discussion about the controller interface. The Nautilis II already has a main power cord (black cord in Dave's pic). Why can't that cord just plug into a timer? Why would I need the CI?

 

 

 

Eve,

 

I was thinking the same thing, but here's their response to why you can't just use the main power cord on a float switch (or timer):

 

" Your float switch would shut off the pump. The display would go

blank, and when the switch said "on", the pump wouldn't do anything,

because it would be off. My float switch would just stop the rotor from

turning; the pump would stay on."

 

Basically, the timer would completely shut off the pump. When you shut off the main power, you lose the settings and the pump does not default to start uip when it gets power again. The control interface allows the pump to stay on, but stops the pump from pumping.

 

 

 

My reservoirs for 2 part will be hanging overhead out of the way with the dosing lines going down into the sump instead of sitting on a floor for the 2-parts to get pulled up and into the sump. Will this be OK for pump operation?

 

 

 

How high is the reservoir? I'm guessing that you'll still be within max overhead. Just make sure that the output line going to the sump is not submerged to avoid back siphoning.

 

 

I'm only using a cup a day of each part. Would it be better (relatively speaking - not adding anything too fast) to dose over a longer period with smaller tubing or over a shorter period with larger tubing?

 

I would think less over a longer period to avoid any large fluctuations. I dose kalk at night when the main lights are off.

Going back to the discussion about the controller interface. The Nautilis II already has a main power cord (black cord in Dave's pic). Why can't that cord just plug into a timer? Why would I need the CI?

 

Because the thing has an internal battery and if you cut power to it it starts to run off battery, not stop pumping.

 

 

My reservoirs for 2 part will be hanging overhead out of the way with the dosing lines going down into the sump instead of sitting on a floor for the 2-parts to get pulled up and into the sump. Will this be OK for pump operation?

 

You might want to hang them so they Draw out rather than flow out (not 100% guarantee they will stop the "flow" (i.e. create a seal when stopped)

 

 

I'm only using a cup a day of each part. Would it be better (relatively speaking - not adding anything too fast) to dose over a longer period with smaller tubing or over a shorter period with larger tubing?

 

 

Longer period (slower addition) I would think would be better.

 

Dave

Eve,

 

How high is the reservoir? I'm guessing that you'll still be within max overhead. Just make sure that the output line going to the sump is not submerged to avoid back siphoning.

 

Thanks much guys - the reservoir WAS :-) going to hang from the ceiling or up on a high shelf completely out of the way so I'd have more room to walk behind the tank. I'm very space challenged :-(

 

I thought I read somewhere that the way to keep the alk (or maybe calcium) drip line from clogging was to make sure it discharged under the water level of the sump. When I set up the pump, both lines for my 2-part should not be underwater?

Actually I've noticed more clogging when it's under the sump water level... just my experience...

 

Dave

Mine hasn't been used long enough to know whether or not it is more likely to clog above or below the water. Since you plan on having your reservoir above the sump, you don't have to worry about back siphoning so you can test the under water vs above water setup for us.

 

I dont think the Nautilis has a backup battery. I haven't tested, but while shopping for a pump, I sent an email to them asking the difference between their Nautilis II and their Sentry pumps. The only difference is that the Sentry has a built-in battery backup, but it cost $349!

 

Not sure why they don't list the Sentry on their InnovativeAquatics site, but its on their ReefDosingPumps.com site:

 

http://www.reefdosingpumps.com/products/sentry.html

 

Also, the pump can pump vertically 15ft.

  • 3 weeks later...

I came back from travel just in time! One more day and my return pump would've run dry. My helper didn't know to watch for that (my fault for not telling them because I thought my pump would've been fine for a week. It's been flawless since and I'm pretty sure it's just user error.

 

Well, I came back home to find my pump stopped. The yellow VOL CLR light was on (right underneath the green AC). Not sure why... I the sitter didn't touch anything. Anyone know why it stopped?

No that's interesteing...

 

I had mine stop when then feed or draw line is stretched to tight.... I usually tell my "tank sittter" to check the pump to make sure it's still reading (240 in my case).

 

Dave

Strange indeed.

 

The power was on, but the volume was blanked, no lights. Only lights on were the AC and CLR VOL. Maybe I somehow set it to pump a specific amount and when it hit that mark, it stopped? I know when I first set it up, I played around with the buttons... :biggrin:

 

I'll have to read the manual to see if this is even an option.

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