Anyone have a sump approx 10 - 12 feet from tank?

[Newbie012000]

Hello everyone. Looking for some advice and input. I am planning a future build to include a sump room. Moved into a new place and want to keep the wife happy by keeping the main area quiet, neat, and clean.

 

I am planning to plumb the main display from the back of the tank into a wall that is connected to the utility room. The only problem is that the portion of the utility room that is directly behind the tank, does not have enough room for me to perform maintenance on the sump.

 

There is enough room for me to plumb the the tank to the sump approx 11 feet to an open area where I can place the sump, mixing station, etc....

 

So here is the issue. The tank is already predrilled with two overflows. I really do not want to drill the back of the tank.

 

The stand sits 36 inches high

The sump sits 21 inches high

If I allow approx 4 inches for the drains from the bottom of the tank before extending into the wall, I am reduced to a difference of 11 inches in height difference from the drains to the top of the sump.

 

My rough estimate is that the height difference from the drain to the top of the sump is approx a descent of 1 inch per foot!!!!! (Not feeling comfortable)

 

Water will definitely travel into the sump, but is this a big concern? I believe it may drain too slowly

 

The tank is a 265 gallon and I do have the option of utilizing four drains.

 

Has anyone done anything similar with their sump placed away from the main disposal with minimum descent?

 

I guess I could raise the stand also? I just don’t want to make it taller than it should be for safety purposes.

 

Thx for reading and any input is appreciated. Stay Warm!!!!!

[Newbie012000]

I should have specified that the overflows drain beneath the tank, not on the back wall.

[Jon Lazar]

Can I ask a few questions to help clarify?

 

- What kind of overflow do you have (corner, center) ?

- What is the pipe size and number of existing bulkheads in your overflows?

- What sort of overflow plumbing are you planning (durso, herbie, beananimal)? 

 

These things will greatly impact your flow rate.  For one thing, the full siphon drain on a beananimal will carry heaps more water than a durso style drain.  The overflow will also greatly affect the amount of noise your tank makes (or doesn't make).

 

Also, you calculate head pressure from the water inlet to the water outlet.  The inlet is usually the surface water level in your tank.  So you have much more than 11 inches of head; probably more like 40 inches.  That will make a big difference.  A modest 1" diameter siphon at 30 inches moves something like 2000 gph.  A 1.5" pipe bumps that up to over 4500 gph.  That's more than a single overflow can probably produce, and probably more flow than you want anyway.

[Newbie012000]

Tank is 265 gallon (7 X 2 X 30 in)has Corner overflows.

It comes with durso style

It also has Four holes pre filled with 1” holes

The durso drains are 1 1/2”

And I plan to use 1 1/2 for the drain lines as well

Since the holes in the tank are already pre drilled at 1”, I am confined to using 1” bulkheads

 

Since the tank will not be set up for several months, I have some time to make the best decision

 

You lost me a little with the measurement of of head pressure. I not very familiar with the bean, but I think what you are explaining is that with a full siphon utilizing the beananimal (my tank height is 30 inches) I will have 30 inches of head. If I understand this correctly, then I understand why many systems have a gate valve on the drain to regulate the flow

Also, if I understand this correctly, I definitely don’t want 4 drains, lol.

 

Can a beananimal system be done with my corner overflows?

 

Thanks for the input.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Perhaps I should research and consider the beananimal method

[Newbie012000]

Lazar, thx for the tip. I researched it and beananimal is being incorporated into the build. Thx.

[AlanM]

I had my sump that far from my tank, but it was also in the basement.  I ended up with a 10 foot run that dropped about 10 inches over the run in the basement ceiling.  I found it a bit hard to get the full siphon started because that's a lot of air to purge out of the lines which is needed to get a good siphon, but I think that was because I also had about 12 feet of vertical drop of air to push out.

 

If I was setting one up like you described I would probably do this with the corner overflow boxes:

 

Box 1: Hole 1- full siphon with gate valve at the sump and the drain terminating just barely under the water level in the sump so the air can be cleared easily.  Pipe up in the overflow box about halfway of full height with two elbows on top so the opening faces down (to prevent a vortex forming in the overflow box which is noisy).  Hole 2 - open channel to the sump with no valves at all and two elbows so the opening also faces down (to minimize trickling noise this time) and a hole drilled on the top to allow air to enter the channel to prevent it converting into a siphon.  The bottom of the two elbows should be placed at a height below the bottom of the overflow teeth, but not so far down that you get a long drop of water into the overflow which is also noisy.

 

Box 2: Hole 1 - Emergency pipe, totally open, no elbows with the top of the pipe above the bottom of the overflow teeth.  This will be dry all of the time unless something goes wrong with the other overflow box. Hole 2 - Return pipe to send water back into the tank.  You could even drill a little hole in this pipe at the top of the return elbow facing down so you get at least some water circulating in this overflow box, otherwise nothing will flow in or out of the box itself.