telegraham July 1, 2017 Share July 1, 2017 Thoughts on this growth? Spider web looking stuff that grows crazy fast. Thank you. Jim Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NamReefs July 1, 2017 Share July 1, 2017 Following Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Safarali July 1, 2017 Share July 1, 2017 Cyano. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Safarali July 1, 2017 Share July 1, 2017 That's what's over running my tank. Been pulling it off every couple days. About to order red slime remover Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telegraham July 1, 2017 Author Share July 1, 2017 Maybe, but not removed by ChemiClean and grows in strings. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Safarali July 2, 2017 Share July 2, 2017 Let us know if you find out. But that's what's been growing in my tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NamReefs July 2, 2017 Share July 2, 2017 Not easy to removed them . I got them all over my tank after 6 months set it up. I do water change every week, not much live stock I mean fish, did run carbon , run gfo . Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telegraham July 2, 2017 Author Share July 2, 2017 Regular cyano disappears after a couple days of ChemiClean, but not this stuff. No other signs of funky. Seems to REALLY like the white egg crate. I guess I’ll do a large water change. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F&Fmgr July 3, 2017 Share July 3, 2017 Dinoflagellates raise alk to 10-12 deg until gone. Kalkwasser works best for this Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethsolomon July 3, 2017 Share July 3, 2017 Dinoflagellates raise alk to 10-12 deg until gone. Kalkwasser works best for this This is a bad idea. Quick way to kill corals. if you do it over 2-3 months it may be ok but over all IMO not worth the risk. I would do manual removal with an air line hose siphon and suck it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlanM July 3, 2017 Share July 3, 2017 For what it's worth, I used white eggcrate from Lowes for a frag rack in my tank and always had cyano and algae problems. I got a square of the black stuff that BRS sells and have had no algae or cyano. Weird. Boffins online suspect that the eggcrate at the hardware store comes in two polymers and that the PVC one is fine but the polystyrene (or whatever the other is) one isn't and grows stuff. /shrug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telegraham July 3, 2017 Author Share July 3, 2017 For what it's worth, I used white eggcrate from Lowes for a frag rack in my tank and always had cyano and algae problems. I got a square of the black stuff that BRS sells and have had no algae or cyano. Weird. Boffins online suspect that the eggcrate at the hardware store comes in two polymers and that the PVC one is fine but the polystyrene (or whatever the other is) one isn't and grows stuff. /shrug Interesting! Thanks, Alan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telegraham July 3, 2017 Author Share July 3, 2017 Switched to black. Worth a try. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami July 5, 2017 Share July 5, 2017 This is a bad idea. Quick way to kill corals. if you do it over 2-3 months it may be ok but over all IMO not worth the risk. I would do manual removal with an air line hose siphon and suck it out. I've successfully raised alk to the suggested levels by as much as 1 dKH per day.... Battling dinos with elevated levels of alkalinity is a decade-old accepted means of control. Sean (F&Fmgr) knows this and has many, many years of experience as well. It's hard to do this with kalkwasser, though, because kalk is not very soluble. Instead, to raise alk like this using kalkwasser (in most tanks with decent alkalinity consumption) requires dosing a slurry (or a tank with very low alk consumption) which can cause a sudden and extreme pH spike (that can stress things) if you're not careful. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F&Fmgr July 5, 2017 Share July 5, 2017 Dripping kalk is bad now? lol There are likely a lot of reefers that would disagree with that statement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F&Fmgr July 5, 2017 Share July 5, 2017 (edited) Tom= " the voice of reason" the science behind raising Alk or dKh is as follows. Your fish are constantly breathing O2 out of and CO2 in to the water column. Therefore giving you a steady supply of carbonic acid. Carbonic acid is detrimental for 2 reasons; algae food(energy) and a softening (neutralizing) of hard water by reacting with carbonates. This is literally what is meant by "buffering your pH"; to have more carbonates input to your aquarium than you have carbonic acid produced on a daily basis. Dripping kalkwasser into your sump is aproven method of growing coral and eliminating algae growth by neutralizing carbonic acid and improving saponification in your protein skimmer. Not to mention that Calcium Hydroxide causes PO4 to precipitate on a small level as well. HTH Sean Edited July 5, 2017 by F&Fmgr Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethsolomon July 5, 2017 Share July 5, 2017 (edited) Dripping kalk is bad now? lol There are likely a lot of reefers that would disagree with that statement. I did not say dripping kalk is bad. Why I am saying this is a bad idea is because of the beginners that use our forums. If I would have read this when I was beginning in the hobby I would have probably just dumped a ton of kalk into my tank to get my alk up. raising alk 2-4 dkh in 1 day would likely kill off most sps and zoas. Instead of just saying vague "raise alk to 10-12 deg until gone." how bought saying something along the lines of "slowly drip kalk to increase alk to 10-12 at 1/2 dkh per day" or something along those lines. Another aspect to this is if the user is not using kalk, they could through their tank out of equilibrium by only dosing sodium bicarb and not increasing calcium at the same rate. Edited July 5, 2017 by sethsolomon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami July 5, 2017 Share July 5, 2017 Here's an article by Randy Holmes-Farley from about 10.5 years ago. He addresses the success and questions about using elevated pH, and (at the end) kalkwasser, to battle dinos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethsolomon July 5, 2017 Share July 5, 2017 (edited) Here's an article by Randy Holmes-Farley from about 10.5 years ago. He addresses the success and questions about using elevated pH, and (at the end) kalkwasser, to battle dinos. I should have specified raising alk at a rapid rate is a bad idea. Not the idea of using kalk.... Edited July 5, 2017 by sethsolomon Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami July 5, 2017 Share July 5, 2017 I should have specified raising alk at a rapid rate is a bad idea. Not the idea of using kalk.... Yes, you want to be careful. But, as I've said, I've raised it even more than 1 dKH per day with success. RHF also writes in a way that infers raising it by similar levels (he talks to 0.66 pH units/day) in multiple steps through a day. At these levels, it's not necessarily the alkalinity that's the issue, it's the pH being raised too quickly. The pH in our tanks, without other buffering (such as borate buffering), is largely set by the balance of carbonate species in our tanks (that's the balance between dissolved CO2, HCO3-, and CO3-- - see here for a nice graph about 3/4 of the way in) and the concentration of CO2 in the air around our tanks. In the long run and under these conditions, the pH is driven back downward to a new balance point as the concentration of the CO2 species, which was driven down by the addtion of kalk, is added again by atmospheric CO2. Hence the comment that you see toward the end of the RHF article which reads, "This process may need to be repeated several times a day to keep the pH high." He also talks to adding a limewater slurry to overcome limits of using kalkwasser (saturated limewater) due to low evaporation. This, by the way, is a method of dosing kalk that Mark Levenson (melev - as in melevsreef.com used to talk about using in his tank 7-10 years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
telegraham July 5, 2017 Author Share July 5, 2017 Y’all are awesome. Following along intently. I do dose kalk, alk is currently 9.0, and I’ve raised it slowly from 7.8. Black egg crate grew the same stuff just as quickly as the white. Within an hour of placing the new rack, it showed growth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethsolomon July 5, 2017 Share July 5, 2017 Y’all are awesome. Following along intently. I do dose kalk, alk is currently 9.0, and I’ve raised it slowly from 7.8. Black egg crate grew the same stuff just as quickly as the white. Within an hour of placing the new rack, it showed growth. hmmm interesting on the black egg crate.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F&Fmgr July 5, 2017 Share July 5, 2017 IME it also helps to shut off DTL( daytime lights) for a couple days to limit the algaes growth potential. Keep on the kalk DRIPPING, and if you can position the kalk effluent to be processed by your skimmer prior to recirculation. I hate dinos. You can beat them, just have to be a little persistent. Healthy corals aren't usually affected by algae, but algae is usually an indicator that your current levels are more conducive to algae growth than coral growth. if you've recently started using a new food be sure to rinse the packaging oils off of the food. In one of my old systems, Dinos were how I knew to recharge my Kalkstirrer. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami July 5, 2017 Share July 5, 2017 If trying the elevated pH approach, then a pH of 9 isn't high enough. Note that the RHF article indicates that some species of dinos do not react poorly to elevated pH. If you've got dinos, take some time to research "dinoflagellates hydrogen peroxide" for another method that's been tried with some success in some aquariums. You may enjoy this Advanced Aquarist article by Leonard Ho. He was frustrated enough that he tried a series of techniques that were known at the time: 1) Increased pH; 2) GAC; 3) Lights out; and 4) Hydrogen peroxide. Just goes to show that it can happen to anybody and can drive anybody nuts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
F&Fmgr July 5, 2017 Share July 5, 2017 Also just thought of this. Is that eggcrate new? If so try putting in your sump where theres no light long enough for the eggcrate to develop b a bio film and possibly calcareous algae prior to having high powered lights beam down on it. new eggrate is amagnet to dinos and GHA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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