Reefoholic August 1, 2016 Share August 1, 2016 Hello WAMAS Buddies, I am going to build a 40 gal breeder stand. Here is my initial plan with my Home Depot shopping list. Please let me know your comments/ideas. I am hoping to post more pictures as I build this thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruleyii August 1, 2016 Share August 1, 2016 Have you kept in mind the placement of your controllers and dosers and what not? Hiding wires and such? Ive see a few clever ways to mount and hide wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefoholic August 1, 2016 Author Share August 1, 2016 David, Thanks for reminding me! I am planning on using a 20 gal SUMP with the Skimmer in the tank, I could mount the doser on one of the side walls with tubes running down into the last chamber of the SUMP. I also plan on mounting the surge protectors inside the frame so that they are out of the way too. I also need to figure out my overflow and pipe construction. More to follow... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davelin315 August 2, 2016 Share August 2, 2016 I am the king of overkill on stands but have built very solid but frugal stands of late. Your measurements only include 2 dimensions but it appears you are using some pretty hefty lumber like 4x4s. Just for reference, I just built a rack for 3 large tanks with a platform for people and filtration and used all 2x6 and 2x4 construction. This holds about 600+ gallons of water and uses deck construction principles with joists running every 16" as support. For a 40 gallon I would just use 2x4 or maybe do 2x6 as the main support and then just frame it up enough to support this and prevent sway. Remember, the rule of thumb is that glass tanks only need to be supported around the edges of the trim (no idea on rimless tanks what support is needed) while acrylic tanks need support across the base. If some of these are 4x I would consider going with less. Could just be the missing dimension and the drawing is making me draw the wrong conclusion, though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefoholic August 2, 2016 Author Share August 2, 2016 I am the king of overkill on stands but have built very solid but frugal stands of late. Your measurements only include 2 dimensions but it appears you are using some pretty hefty lumber like 4x4s. Just for reference, I just built a rack for 3 large tanks with a platform for people and filtration and used all 2x6 and 2x4 construction. This holds about 600+ gallons of water and uses deck construction principles with joists running every 16" as support. For a 40 gallon I would just use 2x4 or maybe do 2x6 as the main support and then just frame it up enough to support this and prevent sway. Remember, the rule of thumb is that glass tanks only need to be supported around the edges of the trim (no idea on rimless tanks what support is needed) while acrylic tanks need support across the base. If some of these are 4x I would consider going with less. Could just be the missing dimension and the drawing is making me draw the wrong conclusion, though. Dave, Thanks for the advice and sorry for my CRAPPY MS paint job. (I need a new software to draw these things, any suggestions?) I was planning on using 2x4 for the whole thing. I am not sure if I should cover the top with plywood or not. Do you have any suggestions for cushioning or insulation from water damage for the top surface? Also, what about the SUMP chamber? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davelin315 August 2, 2016 Share August 2, 2016 If you have a lip, finish it and seal it. If not, I don't typically seal my stands. The prospects of getting water under your tank are pretty slim unless you spill a lot and have a lip. The stand itself you could paint if you feel the need. Under the tank, just have a layer of plywood or leave it open so you can see the substrate from below. This is always a fun thing if you can manage it, neat perspective on the health of your system. For the sump, I would just put down a layer of plywood. If you need to balance anything out, use foam insulation as it will compress just enough to fill in gaps and inconsistencies and also absorb some vibrations as well. I would definitely out something inside the stand unless it will be open to a flat floor so that you can move things around as needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefoholic August 3, 2016 Author Share August 3, 2016 Slight change of plans. I got a used 29 gallon from a WAMAS user earlier this afternoon. I think it is the perfect size for our living room (for now). Here are the new dimensions of the DIY stand: Length: 32" Width: 14" Height: 34" (New) Home Depot Shopping List: This is all using 2x4 studs. 8 x 30" (Support Planks) 4 x 34" (Support Legs) 4 x 32" (Sides Top & Bottom) 8 x 6" (Middle Planks - Top & Bottom) Wood2Wood screws Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefoholic August 3, 2016 Author Share August 3, 2016 Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malacoda August 3, 2016 Share August 3, 2016 (edited) Just for a little food for thought on design and material possibilities, this is the stand I build for my 24g out of a single sheet of 3/4" maple-veneered plywood from Home Depot (with maple edging veneer used on the edges to make them pretty too). My reason for the all-plywood build was that I wanted to open up as much space as possible for sump and equipment rather than having any of it taken up by 2x4 framing. And, while accessing the cabinet is never a problem with the door on, the hinges (from Woodcraft) have a little tab on them - one quick push on each and the door pops right off for even easier access. Again, just food for thought... Edited August 3, 2016 by malacoda Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefoholic August 4, 2016 Author Share August 4, 2016 (edited) Just for a little food for thought on design and material possibilities, this is the stand I build for my 24g out of a single sheet of 3/4" maple-veneered plywood from Home Depot (with maple edging veneer used on the edges to make them pretty too). My reason for the all-plywood build was that I wanted to open up as much space as possible for sump and equipment rather than having any of it taken up by 2x4 framing. And, while accessing the cabinet is never a problem with the door on, the hinges (from Woodcraft) have a little tab on them - one quick push on each and the door pops right off for even easier access. Again, just food for thought... It looks so professionally done! Thanks for sharing! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited August 4, 2016 by Reefoholic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefoholic August 4, 2016 Author Share August 4, 2016 Picked up the studs from the Home Depot. I have to say it wasn't the most professional operation. Some of the pieces are not cut to my dimensions. I will need to get a saw to make corrections. Now all it needs is a good sanding down and let the construction begin! I also got some varnish from the Ace near my place. More pics to follow... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefoholic August 4, 2016 Author Share August 4, 2016 Morning buddies! Has anyone built their own light canaopy? I am thinking of something very light for the two AI Primes I have. Any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefoholic August 4, 2016 Author Share August 4, 2016 FYI the studs at the Home Depot are NOT 2x4 in measurement. They are in fact 1.5 x 3.5 . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefoholic August 5, 2016 Author Share August 5, 2016 UPDATE Build compete. Below is almost a step by step guide. Top frame Side support studs are in. I cut these a little bigger than needed and hammered them in place. Additional views Finished frame with the tank on top I put the first coat of varnish and going to let it dry overnight. More pics to follow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bruleyii August 5, 2016 Share August 5, 2016 Getting busy. How are you planning on finishing it? Ive seen people use sheets and attach them with magnets so they can access easily without any interference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefoholic August 5, 2016 Author Share August 5, 2016 Getting busy. How are you planning on finishing it? Ive seen people use sheets and attach them with magnets so they can access easily without any interference. Great idea dude! I like that! I am varnishing it now. I need to put the second coat on to make it darker. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefoholic August 6, 2016 Author Share August 6, 2016 Added the 20 gal sump. It is sticking out in the back maybe 1/2 inch due to the support studs in the front but I think that's ok. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefoholic August 8, 2016 Author Share August 8, 2016 (edited) UPDATE SUMP build is complete. I will place the PS in the first chamber. Filter media and maybe some refugium things in the main chamber and finally the return pump in the last chamber. The doser pump will be placed on top of the second chamber where it will deposit Alk and Cal. Finally I am done with the canopy for the AI Primes. I love the fact that since it is a bare bottom tank, the light goes right down into the SUMP. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited August 8, 2016 by Reefoholic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefoholic August 8, 2016 Author Share August 8, 2016 The plywood frame that I made for the SUMP door is too heavy for the magnets to carry. I am thinking of improvising something from burlap. I might end up making cabinet doors covered in burlap. Any ideas? I could also cover the burlap with paint. Check this one out below. He made the doors with burlap in the middle and covered the burlap with gold-leaf. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami August 8, 2016 Share August 8, 2016 FYI the studs at the Home Depot are NOT 2x4 in measurement. They are in fact 1.5 x 3.5 . Ha. You noticed. That's actually standard for a 2x4. It's been quite a few decades since 2x4's were 2 inches by 4 inches. After warpage and milling, dimensions are reduced to the standard size that you've measured. That standard has been in place since before 1970 but, in reality, it's probably been a century since true rough-cut (and green) 2x4's were in regular production. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefoholic August 9, 2016 Author Share August 9, 2016 (edited) Stand is complete minus minor tweaks like attaching the power strips and the reekkeeper lite. Here are some pictures. I installed magnet strips on the doors and on the cabinet frame to hold the doors closed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited August 9, 2016 by Reefoholic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
treesprite August 10, 2016 Share August 10, 2016 (edited) How was it using the Polyshades? I've used it a lot, but it's such a PITA that I think I am just going to paint the next stand. It gets microbubbles in it sometimes, and the wood has to be ultra-fine sanded. The last thing I used it for was a desk for my son, for which we wanted the top perfectly shiny and smooth; I had to sand off the first application on the desk top because of those bubbles, and it took 5 coats to get it dark enough. The closest thing I can compare it to when it comes to making it perfect, is the application of a phone screen - from one of those generic phone screen sheets that have to be cut to match the phone edges - in a dusty room where cats have been, while you have a cough. Paint is so easy and brainless, and sanding doesn't have to be perfect. I like the idea of the burplap. Being somewhat of a seamstress, I was considering the use of fabric, but burlap can be painted and used for adding texture to flat surfaces. If it is put on a frame to fit in between stand frame supports, it can easily be removed and replaced if dirty or damaged (wouldn't even have to attach it to the frame, because the frame for it pushed between the stand frame would hold the burlap tightly in place). Edited August 10, 2016 by treesprite Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reefoholic August 10, 2016 Author Share August 10, 2016 How was it using the Polyshades? I've used it a lot, but it's such a PITA that I think I am just going to paint the next stand. It gets microbubbles in it sometimes, and the wood has to be ultra-fine sanded. The last thing I used it for was a desk for my son, for which we wanted the top perfectly shiny and smooth; I had to sand off the first application on the desk top because of those bubbles, and it took 5 coats to get it dark enough. The closest thing I can compare it to when it comes to making it perfect, is the application of a phone screen - from one of those generic phone screen sheets that have to be cut to match the phone edges - in a dusty room where cats have been, while you have a cough. Paint is so easy and brainless, and sanding doesn't have to be perfect. I like the idea of the burplap. Being somewhat of a seamstress, I was considering the use of fabric, but burlap can be painted and used for adding texture to flat surfaces. If it is put on a frame to fit in between stand frame supports, it can easily be removed and replaced if dirty or damaged (wouldn't even have to attach it to the frame, because the frame for it pushed between the stand frame would hold the burlap tightly in place). Polyshades worked great for me! No bubbles what so ever! However, I sanded all the surfaces and cleaned them before I put on the paint. The shade you see in the picture is after 4 coats of paint over a week. It certainly tested my patience. I used the royal walnut shade. It gives a nice old feeling to the ordinary 2x4s. Burlap was an excellent choice for the doors since I could really stretch it to fit properly and it adheres to the rough surface somehow. Also, i could use nail pins with no trouble on the plywood. I agree that it is also easy enough to paint over OR change it out if it gets old and/or dirty. All in all, I am very content with the results. We have a mid century modern design in the living room so the colors and the texture with burlap fits in quite nice. Let me know what you decide to do with your build. I will be more than happy to help out with ideas and questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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