jon_703 September 16, 2015 Share September 16, 2015 I've been in the hobby for about 4 months now. And for the past couple weeks I've had this red slime. I used chemi-clean, which helped but the slime came back. I did the 20% water change like the directions said. Not sure what to do next if the chemi-clean won't help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethsolomon September 16, 2015 Share September 16, 2015 Are you using RO/DI water to mix your salt water? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
epleeds September 16, 2015 Share September 16, 2015 And how much/what are u feeding? What's ur light cycle and bioload Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon_703 September 16, 2015 Author Share September 16, 2015 I'm not using a ro/di actually. Blue lights on over night for about 8-9 hours, and white and blue on during day for about 10 hours. Everything was fine until 2 weeks. My water parameters are perfect as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon_703 September 16, 2015 Author Share September 16, 2015 I feed once a day about 8 pellets of THERA+A Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethsolomon September 16, 2015 Share September 16, 2015 I'm not using a ro/di actually. Blue lights on over night for about 8-9 hours, and white and blue on during day for about 10 hours. Everything was fine until 2 weeks. My water parameters are perfect as well. My bet is your getting high silicates and phosphates from your tap water. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon_703 September 16, 2015 Author Share September 16, 2015 RO/DI should fix the problem? I'm trying to find one now that can support up to a 75g Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sethsolomon September 16, 2015 Share September 16, 2015 RO/DI should fix the problem? I'm trying to find one now that can support up to a 75gGet the cheapest 4 stage ro/DI unit from brs and a 1 micron chlorimines filter to replace the carbon block it comes with. I would bet it will fix the problem. But it will take time for the silicates and phosphates to come down. Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon_703 September 16, 2015 Author Share September 16, 2015 Thanks! I will try to find on on here for a good deal, if not I'll just have to go new. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MeghanisradxD September 17, 2015 Share September 17, 2015 I fought red slime for months when I first started my tank. Switching to RODI helped tremendously and I used chemiclean to kill off the last bit that wouldn't go away. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sen5241b September 22, 2015 Share September 22, 2015 4 stages may not get the TDS down to zero. 5 stage will. If your tank is filled tap water then understand it may take time to get the 'trates out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lutz123 September 22, 2015 Share September 22, 2015 I agree that rodi is a must. You can go to walmart or the grocery store and pick up distilled water also. You may find that the difference in cost is negligible (unless you don't have to pay for water at your home.) I would recommend a couple of big water changes to get you started. As for the cyano issue. Be patient. "Wait and see" is good with a new tank - rarely is the chemical solution a good first approach. Your tank will go through lots of cycles for the next year or more. Cut down on the feedings a bit and clean up whatever you can manually now and then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmerek2 September 23, 2015 Share September 23, 2015 +1 lutz!!! also siphon out what you can with water changes. The cyano is soaking up the nutrients you need the nutrients out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22bfan October 30, 2015 Share October 30, 2015 Are you on a well or treated city water? If you are on a well there shouldn't be any need for the chloramine specific filter, the regular carbon cartridge would be fine. If you are on treated municipal water that uses chloramines instead of regular chlorine for bacterial control, then you definitely need the chloramine filter. Nothing else will be as effective for removing that crap. Make sure your filter setup has a final DI chamber and you should be good. Go with one of the 75 gpd RO/DI units from Bulk Reef Supply. I started with a whirlpool lowes unit, added on a final DI canister. It worked, but it took 4 hours to make 5 gallons of clean water . . . . What type of lights do you have? If LED's are they programmable? I recently found that cranking up the red spectrum puts a dent in algae growth. This isn't good for the xooxanthellae in coral so this is not recommended if you have coral in your tank. Otherwise, a huge mistake i made when first starting out was to assume the return provided enough flow and water circulation. Algae and bacteria love idle water where nutrients can gather. If you don't have a good power head to circulate water, algae and bacteria are bound to grow out of control. Hope this helps!! Stick with it!! Brad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HgrReefs October 30, 2015 Share October 30, 2015 You can also use Prime to detoxify chloramine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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