sturnmeyer January 24, 2006 January 24, 2006 Hi all. I'm working on the specs for my new 125g and want to have enough light to do everything, which of course means MH. My problem is I have cathedral ceilings so there is no chance of hanging. If I have a canopy does that mean I must have a chiller?
Grav January 24, 2006 January 24, 2006 Maybe, but there are other options too. Fans in hood / sump can make a big difference. T5s and VHOs can give loads of light and put out less heat.
emissary January 24, 2006 January 24, 2006 Yeah force evaporation will do lots of good things for you. Mind you'll need to make sure you've got a float switch or valve or something to maintain water level.
sturnmeyer January 24, 2006 Author January 24, 2006 Thanks... Do you think with a tank that deep, 2 feet, VHO or T5s would get enough light to the bottom. I'm sure all of the SPS would have to be on the top 1/3-1/4 anyway, but I would love to go that route if I could.
Grav January 24, 2006 January 24, 2006 my 150 is 30 inches tall, I have 660w of vho. I can keep nearly anything in the top 1/2 and montis and other easy sps in the lower half. MH was the plan, but I'm worried about heat... not tank temp but acrylic softening over time.
dhoch January 24, 2006 January 24, 2006 Also for T5s you should not have any problem... there are a number of large tanks (mine which is a 180, but I've seen bigger) that are kept with T5s and they have no problems.. What are you planning to keep? Dave
steveoutlaw January 24, 2006 January 24, 2006 I ran dual 250w MH on my 120g and used 4 4" fans and didn't have a heat problem. I did have a 4 degree fluctuation in the temp (78 degrees lights off - 82 degrees lights on). I downgraded to a 26g and use T5's with it and I will never go back to MH. You get brilliant light without the heat issues and you can have a lower profile canopy with the T5s. Plus, the only temp fluctuation I get now is 80.0 to 80.4 degrees.
sturnmeyer January 24, 2006 Author January 24, 2006 my 150 is 30 inches tall, I have 660w of vho. I can keep nearly anything in the top 1/2 and montis and other easy sps in the lower half. MH was the plan, but I'm worried about heat... not tank temp but acrylic softening over time. 51000[/snapback] I'd like to be flexible enough to keep everything, but I really want to run the gammit of montis, millis and acro, frogspawn, few clams and of course the normal run of softies on the bottom.
jwildman January 24, 2006 January 24, 2006 Hi there, I have a 180 and am running 3 @ 250W MH's with 2 @ 6' VHO's. I have an enclosed hood with 2 of the icecap variable speed fans. So far (started in Oct and am in the basement) my temp has been real good 79-81. I still have the fan in the hood and a fan on the sump card to play if need be, not sure if I will have to do it. To me the chiller is a last resort. From my experience, you should be ok with the MH's. Good Luck, John Wildman I ran dual 250w MH on my 120g and used 4 4" fans and didn't have a heat problem. I did have a 4 degree fluctuation in the temp (78 degrees lights off - 82 degrees lights on). I downgraded to a 26g and use T5's with it and I will never go back to MH. You get brilliant light without the heat issues and you can have a lower profile canopy with the T5s. Plus, the only temp fluctuation I get now is 80.0 to 80.4 degrees. 51004[/snapback]
sturnmeyer January 24, 2006 Author January 24, 2006 Wow...I'm hooked. It's starting to sound like the T5s have my name all over them. Also, very quick product findings showed 48" 8 tube at 54W per. Seems awfully low to me on the wattage end. What are you guys running? Also, if I went 8 tubes would you use 4 10K, 4 actinic or 6 10K 2 actinic? Thanks so much guys, so helpful........ Scott
BeltwayBandit January 24, 2006 January 24, 2006 I run a 120 with 2x250 MH. I have 2 4" fans in the canopy that come on with the lights and I get about a 2 degree fluctuation in temperature. I think the biggest problem that many people have with heat is in their system design. If you plan properly and don't go nuts with other peripherals you can manage the temps without resorting to chillers. BB
BeltwayBandit January 24, 2006 January 24, 2006 Wow...I'm hooked. It's starting to sound like the T5s have my name all over them. Also, very quick product findings showed 48" 8 tube at 54W per. Seems awfully low to me on the wattage end. What are you guys running? Also, if I went 8 tubes would you use 4 10K, 4 actinic or 6 10K 2 actinic? Thanks so much guys, so helpful........ Scott 51008[/snapback] From everything I have read the old watts/gallon rule is only applicable to the standard VHO bulbs. When you get into MH and T5 it is a totally different ballgame.
Guest Leishman January 24, 2006 January 24, 2006 I run 3(400w MH) and 3(140w VHO) and 1(250w MH) and have no heat issues. Just elec' bill issues
ErikS January 24, 2006 January 24, 2006 The only thing you'll miss w/ T5's over MH is the "shimmer" lines. You can keep the same livestock under both systems.
victorh January 24, 2006 January 24, 2006 Sturnmeyer, This is the tank that made me take the plunge to T-5. This tank is absolutley amazing! Ivan's tank. I bought the Icecap retrofit 8-bulb. I wish I could fit all 8 on my 90 gallon, but could only fit 6. Each reflector is 2.5" wide. Just means I'll have to go bigger :2thumbsup: . I've had the lights on the tank for a week. They are the bomb. I moved from dual 250Watt MH. Victor
victorh January 24, 2006 January 24, 2006 Oh yeah, I did half aquablue and half blue+. It's a crisp white.
dhoch January 24, 2006 January 24, 2006 I'm running a 7 x 80W T5 (1 is actinic) and 1 x 160W VHO (actinic). I would recommend at least one actinic VHO bulb (it will give better pop)... If you are doing retro this is easy as you can use the same ballast. for your tank ifyou did a 6 bulb setup with 1 as a vho you would probably be great. (assuming 5' staggered setup). Other thing you could do is a 2 x 3' (and do 8 3' bulbs and 1 6' VHO bulb) Tim Folta is doing a similar setup (over a 180) and it's going to be using 3' bulbs Dave
sturnmeyer January 24, 2006 Author January 24, 2006 Sturnmeyer, This is the tank that made me take the plunge to T-5. This tank is absolutley amazing! Ivan's tank. I bought the Icecap retrofit 8-bulb. I wish I could fit all 8 on my 90 gallon, but could only fit 6. Each reflector is 2.5" wide. Just means I'll have to go bigger :2thumbsup: . I've had the lights on the tank for a week. They are the bomb. I moved from dual 250Watt MH. Victor 51023[/snapback] Wow...that's what I'm talking about!!!!!!!!!!!!
sturnmeyer January 24, 2006 Author January 24, 2006 I'm running a 7 x 80W T5 (1 is actinic) and 1 x 160W VHO (actinic). I would recommend at least one actinic VHO bulb (it will give better pop)... If you are doing retro this is easy as you can use the same ballast. for your tank ifyou did a 6 bulb setup with 1 as a vho you would probably be great. (assuming 5' staggered setup). Other thing you could do is a 2 x 3' (and do 8 3' bulbs and 1 6' VHO bulb) Tim Folta is doing a similar setup (over a 180) and it's going to be using 3' bulbs Dave 51027[/snapback] That's definitely worth looking into. I just have to separate them a bit differently because this tank is only 4', which makes it a little bit more interesting.
dhoch January 24, 2006 January 24, 2006 I assumed your 125 was a 6'... They make 4' bulbs in T5... I think there is a 5' VHO as well.... Dave
sturnmeyer January 24, 2006 Author January 24, 2006 Thanks everyone!!! I think I'm hooked. I really appreciate the input......
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