Help with RODI diagram for drinking water & reef tank

[Neto]

I am setting up my brother in law's RODI system this month and we would like to use it for drinking RO and reef RODI water... I made a small diagram of what I  believe is needed but let me know if im wrong! Thanks!

 

 

Edited December 11, 2013 by Neto

[Neto]

fixed!

Edited December 11, 2013 by Neto

[bbyatv]

I have a similar setup and found one issue.  With the RO/DI storage tank, make sure that it is closed lid to minimize evaporation.  Otherwise, the RO/DI filter is constantly making up for the evaporated water.  When this happens the RO/DI filter is not operating at full flow rate / pressure and so the seals in the RO filter may not seal up well.  This can result in the DI resin getting depleted faster than it should as it is now cleaning water that has not gone though the RO unit but has instead slipped around it.  One way around the problem is to place a ball valve just upstream of the float valve.  Then some time after your float valve has cut flow to the storage tank, close the ball valve so that if some water evaporates out of the storage tank, the RO.DI system does not try to keep filling that little bit.

 

Good Luck,

Bruce

[Neto]

I have a similar setup and found one issue.  With the RO/DI storage tank, make sure that it is closed lid to minimize evaporation.  Otherwise, the RO/DI filter is constantly making up for the evaporated water.  When this happens the RO/DI filter is not operating at full flow rate / pressure and so the seals in the RO filter may not seal up well.  This can result in the DI resin getting depleted faster than it should as it is now cleaning water that has not gone though the RO unit but has instead slipped around it.  One way around the problem is to place a ball valve just upstream of the float valve.  Then some time after your float valve has cut flow to the storage tank, close the ball valve so that if some water evaporates out of the storage tank, the RO.DI system does not try to keep filling that little bit.

 

Good Luck,

Bruce

Great suggestion, will consider it. Thanks!

[Buckeye Field Supply]

Some suggestions:

 

Unless you need the faster production - drop down to a 75 gpd membrane.  It has an 8% higher rejection rate.

 

You need another check valve.  This one goes between the RO permeate port and the ASOV.

 

You never want a horizontal DI - orient it vertically and pack it very tightly.  Bottom up flow is best on these little DI's.

 

REplace the GAC cartridge with another block.  Standard GAC has no place in a system like this.  A 10 GPD drinking water system maybe, but not here.

 

Are you on city water?  Do you have chloramines?

 

Russ

[Buckeye Field Supply]

I have a similar setup and found one issue.  With the RO/DI storage tank, make sure that it is closed lid to minimize evaporation.  Otherwise, the RO/DI filter is constantly making up for the evaporated water.  When this happens the RO/DI filter is not operating at full flow rate / pressure and so the seals in the RO filter may not seal up well.  This can result in the DI resin getting depleted faster than it should as it is now cleaning water that has not gone though the RO unit but has instead slipped around it.  One way around the problem is to place a ball valve just upstream of the float valve.  Then some time after your float valve has cut flow to the storage tank, close the ball valve so that if some water evaporates out of the storage tank, the RO.DI system does not try to keep filling that little bit.

 

Good Luck,

Bruce

 

 

[Buckeye Field Supply]

Good advice - avoid short cycling where TDS creep water ends up being a large percentage of the water that ends up in your reservoir.

 

Russ

[Neto]

The system will go into my brother in laws house and he lives in Puerto Rico but not city water... I have no idea how the tds is around that area but will find out soon..

 

Thanks for all suggestions, will highly consider them. I already bought a 100gph but will replace it to a 75 later down the road...

[Air Water and Ice]

The diagram is exactly right ... FYI the New 100 GPD FilmTec Membrane now has a Rejection rate of 98%  vs the old rating of 90% ... The new FilmTec item number is TW30-1812-100HR .... The "HR" tells you you have the new membrane. 

 

Here is a link to our dual home reef diagram : https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59844524/Dual%20Home%20Reef%20Illustration.pdf

[Origami]

The diagram is exactly right ... FYI the New 100 GPD FilmTec Membrane now has a Rejection rate of 98%  vs the old rating of 90% ... The new FilmTec item number is TW30-1812-100HR .... The "HR" tells you you have the new membrane. 

 

Here is a link to our dual home reef diagram : https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59844524/Dual%20Home%20Reef%20Illustration.pdf

Cliff, that's great information to have - that there's now a better 100 gpd membrane available. Thank you.

[Neto]

thanks for all the info guys, acording to the guy I bought it from, I have the 98% version

[Neto]

The diagram is exactly right ... FYI the New 100 GPD FilmTec Membrane now has a Rejection rate of 98%  vs the old rating of 90% ... The new FilmTec item number is TW30-1812-100HR .... The "HR" tells you you have the new membrane. 

 

Here is a link to our dual home reef diagram : https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/59844524/Dual%20Home%20Reef%20Illustration.pdf

Thanks for the diagram, I printed it out so I can tape it inside my brother in laws kitchen cabbinet lol