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Setting up QT tank


mling

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Do you necessary have to go thru the whole cycle thing to set up a QT tank ?

Can I just use the LR from my existing tank to start a QT tank ?

 

Thinking of only having a heater, skimmer, simple CF bulb, LR and bare bottom.

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(edited)

The simpler the better for quarantine. I would just use water right out of your tank and maybe a piece of live rock. Then a basic filter, heater, and I wouldn't worry about a skimmer, bulb should only be for inspection. Just my opinion, I'm sure others will chime in.

Edited by YHSublime
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Use PVC pipe instead of rock. In case you need to use chemicals to treat, it won't be absorbed into the rock

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If you have to medicate it will ruin anything that is in their rock including. Get a cheap HOB filter and get Generic filters and place the filter with no carbon in your sump or tank. That way the filter get cycled. Also I would not use tank water because it does not really contain much that is beneficial as it is the rock and media that does the work. Use the same water you would use for water change. PVC is the way to go and it's only purpose is to give the fish a place to hide to lower its stress. If you need to medicate most likely it will kill any biological filtration anyway so really your way of keeping the tank water clean is from water changes. Just make sure the water is mixed about 24 hours in advance (can be less but I would not) and heated to a similar temp as the QT water.

That's how I do it.

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(edited)

you are not going to use LR in a QT tank. pvc fittings and pipe appropriately sized are great, as someone mentioned above. the skimmer is also something unnecessary as you will be focused on using water changes to control ammonia and nitrite. you will not be able to use a skimmer while treating and removing and putting it back online is more of a pain than water changes are most of the time but if it's a HOB then they can help just be sure to avoid using while medicating. bare bottom is the way to go. a heater and a simple filter for circulation and carbon is great. you can use a bacteria in a bottle product to add bacteria or take a sponge that has been in an established sump or tank to seed your QT tank. be sure to avoid cross-contamination. this means droppers, test kits, water change buckets, power heads, water change tubing, etc. if you don't like having separate gear for QT then simply sanitize (1:10 bleach:water for a couple hours works really well) after use in QT. the CLF light will do as long as it is enough to get the fishes attention that it is daytime and brings them out of their nooks and sleep and will promote eating behavior. pay very close attention to your ammonia and nitrate as without an established bacterial colony of nitrifying organisms, levels can rise quickly. you must be checking every day and be diligent about 50% or so water changes when appropriate. also, get a mesh net or similar to cap your tank. the worst is having a fish on day 30 of a 35 day qt protocol jump on you or get spooked by another fish and land on the floor.

 

check out a few of the QT threads already open and let us know if you have any questions. congrats on being willing to QT. be sure to commit to whatever process you set up for yourself. it really is one of those things that you either do 110% or not all. when done diligently and correctly, the rewards are great!

 

edit: pardon the redundancy in some of my response as i see now there are a few replies above that touch on what i said as i was typing it up.

Edited by monkiboy
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you are not going to use LR in a QT tank. pvc fittings and pipe appropriately sized are great, as someone mentioned above. the skimmer is also something unnecessary as you will be focused on using water changes to control ammonia and nitrite. you will not be able to use a skimmer while treating and removing and putting it back online is more of a pain than water changes are most of the time but if it's a HOB then they can help just be sure to avoid using while medicating. bare bottom is the way to go. a heater and a simple filter for circulation and carbon is great. you can use a bacteria in a bottle product to add bacteria or take a sponge that has been in an established sump or tank to seed your QT tank. be sure to avoid cross-contamination. this means droppers, test kits, water change buckets, power heads, water change tubing, etc. if you don't like having separate gear for QT then simply sanitize (1:10 bleach:water for a couple hours works really well) after use in QT. the CLF light will do as long as it is enough to get the fishes attention that it is daytime and brings them out of their nooks and sleep and will promote eating behavior. pay very close attention to your ammonia and nitrate as without an established bacterial colony of nitrifying organisms, levels can rise quickly. you must be checking every day and be diligent about 50% or so water changes when appropriate. also, get a mesh net or similar to cap your tank. the worst is having a fish on day 30 of a 35 day qt protocol jump on you or get spooked by another fish and land on the floor.

 

check out a few of the QT threads already open and let us know if you have any questions. congrats on being willing to QT. be sure to commit to whatever process you set up for yourself. it really is one of those things that you either do 110% or not all. when done diligently and correctly, the rewards are great!

 

edit: pardon the redundancy in some of my response as i see now there are a few replies above that touch on what i said as i was typing it up.

great post and great point for cross-contamination. Once it's used in QT it stays for the QT
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Thanks for all the info, very educational.

 

I am thinking of getting a Mandarin. While it will do fine in my matured display tank, won't it not make it in a QT tank ?

I heard that Mandarins don't get ich due to some coating their body has. Would this imply that I may not need to QT a Mandarin as much as others ?

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Thanks for all the info, very educational.

 

I am thinking of getting a Mandarin. While it will do fine in my matured display tank, won't it not make it in a QT tank ?

I heard that Mandarins don't get ich due to some coating their body has. Would this imply that I may not need to QT a Mandarin as much as others ?

 

I would research pretty heavily into it before getting one. I know they require a lot of pods. They are beautiful though.

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Get a DFS hob filter it has a surface skimmer and why have any type of headach

with starting and stoping a tank.

Run it full time just keep a BLACK MOLLIE in it to keep it ready,

On a small tank a skimmer helps as fish stress easy.

40 breeder/dfs hob/mollie.........pretty easy and no fuss.

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I would research pretty heavily into it before getting one. I know they require a lot of pods. They are beautiful though.

 

I had one before a tank crash 2 years ago, that lived. Since than I had one that only lived about a month. I am wondering if it run out of pods.

This why this time around I plan to first have a pod population thrive in the fudge before getting one.

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on your point on mandarins, check out this article from coral magazine: http://coralmagazine...l/20111112#pg45

 

quite comprehensive and should answer all your questions...

 

And beautifully designed to boot. I have lightly researched these fish (after seeing them in Jans tank) and I think a thriving pod population is a great start, I think getting them on frozen is hit or miss. I'm going to read that article and dream of one day having one in my tank.

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