ErikS October 26, 2005 October 26, 2005 the teacher got a raised pannel door kit and id like to use raised pannel doors on it but i dont know how to encorperate the plybead into it. I have an idea for this - I did this very same thing for the doors on my built in unit. Just create the rails & stiles as normal then use the beaded ply in the middle instead of raised panels. Save you a bit of time & it will match the sheathing :D Nice job, looks like the stand is coming along nicely.
Guest alex wlazlak October 26, 2005 October 26, 2005 ya know what, that was what i was thinking about doing then. but im not sure about what kind of wood to use for the rails and stiles out of. possibly popler or a 2x4 cut to size..?
ErikS October 26, 2005 October 26, 2005 You can use either, slicing up 2x4s would cost less........but.........pine is soft & will get dinged up pretty easily. Also, buliders grade 2x4's tend to have structural defects - loose grain & knots = difficult to machine. Poplar is an excellent choice for painted surfaces - tight grained/hard enough to machine & paint nicely yet soft enough to be easy on cutters & workable. (it's also on the very cheap end of the hardwoods, though S4S still isn't as cheap as pine S4S). Two tips - first, when gluing up the rails & stiles remember to clamp from both sides. Even though the joints are very tight one sided clamping will give you a warped door (DAMHIKT ). Second, never ever tell anyone you know how to make doors - leave this skill as "mysterious woodworkers art" To do otherwise invites trouble.
Guest alex wlazlak November 1, 2005 November 1, 2005 dont know how i did it, but i did. the stands 47
geofloors November 1, 2005 November 1, 2005 I have two 120g tanks and both of them measure 48.5X 24.5 if you include the frame around the top and bottom. The actual glass box is 24X 48. George
Guest alex wlazlak November 1, 2005 November 1, 2005 yeah, only noticed that when it was too late. i dont know how, but some how i ended up taking off a half inch of material while sanding.. my question is do you guys think that the plybead, standing up, will be able to hold some of the plastic tray around the bottom of the tank? casue the bottom plastic tray is 7/8" wide and the stand is only 24" wide and 47
flowerseller November 1, 2005 November 1, 2005 See what your shop teacher has in mind and listen with an open mind to what he says. If you're concerned about the fit, I would think you could use a 3/4 sheet of plywood cut to fit the tank and place it on top of your stand as is. Measure twice, cut once. Hang in there,
Guest alex wlazlak November 1, 2005 November 1, 2005 thanks. thats a good idea, but could i use one pice of
ErikS November 1, 2005 November 1, 2005 IF you use the edges of the cladding material (ply in this case) to support the tank you'll be fine. Just don't "tack on" any additional support - same issue as the main framing, will tend to give (glass tank = supported by the edge).
Guest alex wlazlak November 1, 2005 November 1, 2005 alright i think we've got it figured out. im going to put the front and sides on somtime this week (holpeully). the teacher said that i need to make a side door if im going to be putting a sump in, because we need to asemble it there and stuff, and the edging on the top and all that.. but ill see what happens. thanks.
Guest alex wlazlak November 14, 2005 November 14, 2005 just got contruction adheisive over the weekend and i attatched the front of the stand on today. i forgot to bring my phone so tommorow i should have pictures.i aslo began making the rails and styles for the doors. theyre just made out of 2x4s...
Guest alex wlazlak November 16, 2005 November 16, 2005 i used contruction adheisive to attatch the plybead and i flush trimed it up. i will most likly do the sides tomorow unless i run out of contruction adheisive. the last picture is with the styles and rails for the doors. i cant wait to make the doors too!sorry about the quality of all the pictures, theyre from my phone...
Guest alex wlazlak January 11, 2006 January 11, 2006 great news people, ive got the doors almost ready to be put together. on monday i set up the big ol' shaper and cut the end boards (the first and second picture), i needed to make a sled first to cut them on and thats the third picture. the last one is of all twelve of the style and rails. tomorow im gonna cut the back of plybead so that will fit inside the styles and rails.
Guest alex wlazlak January 11, 2006 January 11, 2006 i know that im gonna go with somthing on the lighter side..
Guest alex wlazlak January 11, 2006 January 11, 2006 i cut out probly around 3/32 of an inch off of the back of the plybead so that the pannel would fit the the styles and rails. ive got a picture of when the style and rails were together and when i have the pannels in.. all of the real main stuff is done and now its to the details! im going to put a 2-3 inch trim around the top and bottom and a 3/4 inch trim around the corners. ryan's (kragon) stand had an awsome pull out "shelf" that you can put stuff on and that gave me the idea to do it too. im sure its going to be somewhat difficult to do now that the from is on and the whole thinkg is put together, but ill update lata.
ErikS January 12, 2006 January 12, 2006 Nice work! Nice joints on the R&S! You certainly learned some valuable skills. Always thought the way R&S joints come together is cool.
Guest alex wlazlak January 12, 2006 January 12, 2006 yeah it really is neat how that works. im so thankful that my school has all the stuff that it has. id go crazy if i couldnt go to wood shop!
BeltwayBandit January 12, 2006 January 12, 2006 You better quit posting pics of your work. I might have to hire you to build my next stand if you keep this up.. Nice work. BB
Folta January 12, 2006 January 12, 2006 Yes, its looking real nice there Alex! Keep up the good work!
ErikS January 12, 2006 January 12, 2006 id go crazy if i couldnt go to wood shop! I might have to hire you to build my next stand if you keep this up Hmmmm.....remember Folks are always willing to pay good money for quality work .
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