Water testing equipment

[Sharkey18]

I am looking to both simplify and be more accurate in my water testing. I am tired of test tube color tests that are all over the map.

 

Are the Hanna colorimeters the way to go? They are pricey at $50 a pop plus reagent.. Looks like they are available for alk, calcium and phosphate.

 

Anyone using them? Are they worth it?

[Halcyon]

Yes they are. The initial cost plus the cost of the reagents far out weigh the inaccuracies of other test systems.

[Marc Weaver]

The calcium checker is tricky, cumbersome, and just not worth the cost in my opinion. I sold mine after 2 or 3 uses.

 

I have the ULR Phosphorous checker for phosphates which I love. You have to multiply the result by 3.066 and divide by 1000 to get ppm phosphates. I find this meter to be very accurate and repeatable despite lots of negative reviews on the Hanna ReefCentral forum. For example, I'll test my water before I feed for the day and get a 6 (.018ppm) then a little while after I feed and it will measure a 11 (.034 ppm.) The next day the levels are back down. If it's sensitive enough to test the elevated phosphate levels from added frozen food then it's accurate enough for me. The test procedure is not that bad, you have to swirl the reagent in a cuvette for 2-3 minutes, then wait for the 3 minute countdown for a reading. If you forget about it and walk away, the meter will shut off and you will lose your reading after a few more minutes. That's the only thing I don't like. I wish it would stay on longer or beep when the test is done.

 

The alk checker is very good as well. I have exhaustively tested it against Salifert and my results are always consistent to within .1 dKH. The reference solution that comes with Salifert also checked dead on in the checker. It measures PPM alkalinity which you multiply by .056 to get dKH. I have also tested the checker against a Lamotte 4491 kit which I have as well and it always matches that kit also. I figure that if it matches Lamotte and Salifert it is a great product. The test procedure is quick and easy.

[Sharkey18]

Awesome, thanks!

[Steve175]

I figure that if it matches Lamotte and Salifert it is a great product. The test procedure is quick and easy.

 

I agree with this statement for Alk . . . 'cept for me Salifert is quicker.

I have had the same variability as you with both the PO4 and Phos checkers (I own both plus Alk plus Calc and use none of them) within 2 minutes and without interval feeding. I have switched to Red Seas for Phos and Nitrate and I went back to Salifert for Alk, Ca, and Mg.

[ErikS]

My .02 -

 

I've used most all of them - I find most are decently accurate and convenience rules (more likely to do the test)

 

1. Red Sea - foundation kit is nice, the titration holder is great as are the coated cards (water resistant). Refills are also pretty cheap. Overall it's easy to use & they work. Of note - I never thought I'd say that about any Red Sea product.

 

2. Elos - kits are nice, good instructions, work fine, and generally easy to use once get past the "Italian-glish" of the instructions. Exception is the No3 test - old school "guess the color" test = too subjective. Elos Mg tests are unique - it's do one reagent, record results. Do another reagent & then subtract one from another? But it's far better than the old "filter reagent" that Salifert used to use (do they still?)

 

3. Salifert - same as Elos, though I'd give the nod to Elos as tests are generally the same (Xml of water, X drops etc)

 

4. Hanna - Accurate but I really, really dislike them. I hate using them though I do for PO4 as it's the best one available. Instructions are rubbish. Example - Red Sea tells you "fill until the plunger reads 1ml allowing an air gap". Both use a tip but the Hanna makes no mention of it.....am I to fill with the gap or fill until I have all reagent at 1ml? Impacts accuracy. The PO4 test must have been designed by an numbskull - Forrest Gump could have done a better job. Open the packet & get all the reagent into the vial? LMAO, yeah, right = tap, tap, tap.....dump & a miss. You can work around this but it's simply a usability fail. If I didn't need the PO4 I toss them in the trash where they belong. $50....ouch, let go my arm. Nothing about them makes them worth $50.....unless you're to lame to do a titration (see above, Red Sea makes this easy as can be).

[Steve175]

Nice overview/I have never used the ELOS line nor the older Salifert Mg kit: the new Salifert Mg is almost identical to their calcium: pretty easy, pretty quick and no requirement for hallucinogens to determine what the color actually is (titration test rather than a color wheel test).

[ErikS]

Nice overview/I have never used the ELOS line nor the older Salifert Mg kit: the new Salifert Mg is almost identical to their calcium: pretty easy, pretty quick and no requirement for hallucinogens to determine what the color actually is (titration test rather than a color wheel test).

Sounds like they've changed it a bit.....for the good. Every test I do with the Elos NO3 is "check with my wife - what color does it look like to you"

[Origami]

My thoughts:

 

1) I started out using Red Sea kits. My experience with the inaccuracy of their alkalinity test (across various lots) was a disappointment.

 

2) I've had good luck and continue to use API for inexpensive calcium and alkalinity tests. From time to time, I will "calibrate" their alkalinity test against my Hanna checker and, as needed, adjust the amount of tank water I'm testing in order to calibrate the reading.

 

3) I have, use and like the Hanna alkalinity checker. When initially purchased, I tested it against an alkalinity standard and found it accurate. I think that the instructions, for me, are pretty clear. The checker reads out in ppm of alkalinity. It's easy to convert, but I've posted (elsewhere) a handy look-up table that allows you to convert the PPM CaCO3 to dKH.

 

(Regarding the use of the syringe, depending upon whether or not you drive the air bubble out of the top of the syringe changes the way you should dose the vial. The bottom line is you want to put 1 ml of test reagent into the vial. If the plunger starts at the zero point and you withdraw it to 1 ml of displacement, then 1 ml will be drawn up into the syringe. As long as you don't drive the air bubble (which will be at the end of the plunger) out, then pressing down on the plunger will release the full milliliter that was taken up. In this case, the tip of the syringe will be empty. On the other hand, if you drive that air bubble out, you will have to depress the syringe to evacuate all of the air and draw up more reagent to the 1 milliliter mark so that, when you depress the plunger, 1 ml will be dosed. In this case, there's a very small amount of reagent that remains in the tip of the syringe. Again, your goal is to deliver 1 milliliter to the test vial. Either way works.)

 

4) I have, use and like the Hanna ULR Phosphorus checker. I've never checked it against a standard, but have found it relatively easy to use and consistent. The powdered reagent is in a hermetically sealed packet and has a shelf life of 3 years (I think). Thus, if you're not checking phosphates that often, the investment is spread out and you have a greater chance of using it all rather than having to toss out an old kit. My only complaint is that the powdered reagent dissolves rather slowly. No big deal. Just be patient. The checker measures Phosphorus (not phosphate) in ppb (parts per billion). The conversion to ppm Phosphate was provided earlier. Like the alk checker, I have a post here somewhere that gives you a handy look-up table for this checker that converts to ppm Phosphate. Both look up tables were sized such that you could tape them to the inside of the Checker's box when printed out.

 

5) I have but have not yet used the Hanna calcium checker. I've heard that it's complicated to use and inconsistent, but I can't comment. For now, I still use my API kit for calcium.

 

6) I've used a variety of Salifert kits. Some can be complicated to use; others less so. There was a quality problem with some Salifert kits a few years ago but, in general, they're good kits.

 

7) I've used Elos' potassium kit. Testing for potassium is always a matter of judgement as you're trying to evaluate the turbidity of a solution rather than looking for a distinct color change. This makes the measurement rather subjective.

 

8) I don't recommend the Hanna iodine checker. The resolution on it is not suitable for this hobby.

 

9) I've used and continue to use SeaChem to measure magnesium. The test protocol is rather involved, but manageable.

 

10) I measure pH with a calibrated probe.

 

11) I measure temperature with my Apex, but I confirm the accuracy using a NIST traceable lab thermometer.

[L8 2 RISE]

I have only used the calcium hanna checker and it was 100% horrible on every level. A pain to use, extremely inaccurate, and not repeatable at all! Dont get it!

[marinap]

Anyone using them? Are they worth it?

 

I use all three and they are great + Elos Mg test.

 

How is the tank coming along, Laura?

Edited November 2, 2012 by marinap

[ErikS]

My thoughts:

 

2) I've had good luck and continue to use API for inexpensive calcium and alkalinity tests. From time to time, I will "calibrate" their alkalinity test against my Hanna checker and, as needed, adjust the amount of tank water I'm testing in order to calibrate the reading.

I forgot all about API - I like the ALK test for quick & dirty. Easy as can be, 1 drop = 1 DKH......only issue is no 1/2 drops.

 

 

3) I have, use and like the Hanna alkalinity checker. ..........

(Regarding the use of the syringe, depending upon whether or not you drive the air bubble out of the top of the syringe changes the way you should dose the vial. The bottom line is you want to put 1 ml of test reagent into the vial. If the plunger starts at the zero point and you withdraw it to 1 ml of displacement, then 1 ml will be drawn up into the syringe. As long as you don't drive the air bubble (which will be at the end of the plunger) out, then pressing down on the plunger will release the full milliliter that was taken up. In this case, the tip of the syringe will be empty. On the other hand, if you drive that air bubble out, you will have to depress the syringe to evacuate all of the air and draw up more reagent to the 1 milliliter mark so that, when you depress the plunger, 1 ml will be dosed. In this case, there's a very small amount of reagent that remains in the tip of the syringe. Again, your goal is to deliver 1 milliliter to the test vial. Either way works.)

Point was lack of clarity. I do as you mention (fill 1ml)....but...they supply a tip, a tip which makes it impossible to get a full 1ml. Instructions simply state 1ml, no mention of with the tip (relative 1ml) or a full 1ml. Leaving one to assume.

 

Of the Hanna kits I've used I rate the ALK as okay, the PO4 is not. And given what I've read about the Ca my .02 is Hanna makes nice toys but that's about it, nothing to write home about.

 

 

11) I measure temperature with my Apex, but I confirm the accuracy using a NIST traceable lab thermometer.

Good point, we often forget this one.....I use a Thermapen, accurate & quick.

[Origami]

I forgot all about API - I like the ALK test for quick & dirty. Easy as can be, 1 drop = 1 DKH......only issue is no 1/2 drops.

Yep, hard to beat for simplicity. I know that you know how to get the half-drop accuracy.... double up on the sample size. Actually, the 10 ml sample bottle from the Hanna checker is perfect for this. Then, each drop of API alkalinity reagent is 0.5 dKH. Oh, and shake the bottle of reagent first. It helps distribute the pH indicator in the solution making results more consistent, accurate, and easy to read.

 

Point was lack of clarity. I do as you mention (fill 1ml)....but...they supply a tip, a tip which makes it impossible to get a full 1ml. Instructions simply state 1ml, no mention of with the tip (relative 1ml) or a full 1ml. Leaving one to assume.

I don't use that tip. It actually wasn't supplied with the one that I got early on. However, I've seen it. It's extraneous hardware in my opinion.

 

Of the Hanna kits I've used I rate the ALK as okay, the PO4 is not. And given what I've read about the Ca my .02 is Hanna makes nice toys but that's about it, nothing to write home about.

Same. I returned my Low Range Phosphate checker to Hanna shortly after I got it. I traded it in with them for their ULR Phosphorus checker, believe it or not, on the recommendation of one of their chemists there who brought it to my attention. He was a reefer, too, and used the ULR Phosphorus checker on his tank. It's actually the more relevant product for the levels we're looking for as it is three times more sensitive (precision-wise) than the Phosphate checker.

 

Good point, we often forget this one.....I use a Thermapen, accurate & quick.

Temperature. We take it for granted that it's simple to measure accurately but we hardly ever question or verify the results until we put two thermometers side by side in our tank and ask, "Which one is right?" Luckily, absolute precision is not required. Nice to have, but not required if all is going well. Repeatability is more important.

[Sharkey18]

Well I ordered the hanna meters. I'll see how it goes.