swffan September 14, 2012 September 14, 2012 Purchased this set up from someone that needed to unload it fast. Was not happy at all with the way it was set up when I purchased it. Since it was up and running, I just moved it fast and tossed it back up. Currently running now with a HOB filter :( . This will be the plumbing set up for a 65 FOWLR tank for a few months until I can change things around the way I really want them (and finish Mom's tank and my 40b set up). I want to paint or stain the stand and canopy and espresso color, add a real sump, and put my GHoles overflow on (will be looking for someone to drill it for me) Aside from opinions on the skimmer (Urchin) selection (fits the space for now and was great on a 45 cube) do you see anything that should be changed before I cement it all together tomorrow night? Using a CPR overflow (CS 50 I think)- down to the skimmer sock, water flows through sock where the MJ1200 skimmer pump is beneath it, water drops out of skimmer to the the Mag 7 return, return has a "T" which takes it to the tank and also back to the section between the filter sock and skimmer; which will hold some chaeto or caulerpa, there are holes in the right side of that section for water to flow back into the chamber that holds the return. Not looking for anything fancy at this point, just something that works for a few months (or less) and makes sense. Thoughts? Suggestions on changes before I cement?
zygote2k September 14, 2012 September 14, 2012 you're gonna need to extend those drain pipes into the sump and below water line with some sort of bubble killer device otherwise you'll have lots of splash/salt creep. You should also use a check valve on the return for safety.
swffan September 14, 2012 Author September 14, 2012 you're gonna need to extend those drain pipes into the sump and below water line with some sort of bubble killer device otherwise you'll have lots of splash/salt creep. You should also use a check valve on the return for safety. I do have extensions that will go into both drains, forgot to throw them on in the picture...did not have a check valve though. May have to grab one of those today
Spelter October 6, 2012 October 6, 2012 Is the check valve on the return line to prevent a siphon from forming?
zygote2k October 7, 2012 October 7, 2012 Is the check valve on the return line to prevent a siphon from forming? prevents water from siphonoing back from the return line when the power is off. also allows you to more easily remove the pump for servicing.
SaltFire October 12, 2012 October 12, 2012 prevents water from siphonoing back from the return line when the power is off. also allows you to more easily remove the pump for servicing. @ Hatchling You could also drill a small hole in the return line right above the water level to allow air into the line as well. The air entering the line will break the back siphon. Just make sure your sump as enough vertical space to allow for the residual back flow until the siphon is stopped. I prefer this method and use true union ball valves near the pumps input and output to control flow and easy removal if needed. Just another thought...as with anything its what works best for you.
SaltFire October 13, 2012 October 13, 2012 @ Hatchling You could also drill a small hole in the return line right above the water level to allow air into the line as well. The air entering the line will break the back siphon. Just make sure your sump as enough vertical space to allow for the residual back flow until the siphon is stopped. I prefer this method and use true union ball valves near the pumps input and output to control flow and easy removal if needed. Just another thought...as with anything its what works best for you. @ swffan Just noticed I got your user name mixed up with your forum level.
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