SaltFire

I'm also interested...

For perspective I have two 2" bulkead drains drillled in the back of my 135 gallon. I run a panworld 100 PX-X return pump rated at 1270gph fully open. I also teed one of the drains to feed my fuge.

+1

I don't think i would try this on my DT or sump but this is could be useful for a water change station... http://www.cichlid-f...y_bulkheads.php

I'm moving it inside before it gets too cold, don't want to risk any damage to my unit. Thanks!

Thanks , for reminding me! I'm going to find some way to insulate it to keep the membrane containers warmer than the ambient air. My basement gets pretty cold too sometimes my garage feels warmer. I'll watch it this winter and move it if it becomes an issue. I've lived in warmer climates for the past six yeras so I have to get re-acclimated to the weather here. Just curious, anyone else have their units in the garage?

Unfortunately for me the only place my wife would let me install it was the garage. I'll just have to keep an eye on it.

I thought about doing that too...may change it later. Did you worry about you RO unit possibly freezing in the garage? Im thinking about insulating mine somehow.

@ dcreefer, Yes I have a float valve installed in my 35g Rubbermaid storage container. It works so far with out any issues. @Rosco's Reef, I stuck the waste line down my bathroom sink drain. The bathroom doesn't get used often so its no problem. I installed my RO/DI system in the garage on the same wall I have a bathroom sink on. So I drilled a couple of holes in the wall, ran the supply line under the sink cabinet and the waste line above the sink. Its a lot easier for me to repair a couple of small holes in the wall than a couple of holes in my piping. I just had to make sure I didn't hit a water pipe in my wall:blink: that would've been bad. I'll pretty it up later for now it get's the job done.

Bought this adapter from Home Depot the other day. I really didn't want to pierce a hole in my pipes in case I wanted to uninstall it later. I'm also not a good DIY'er so soldering was out of the question. I went to get a sink adapter from HD and the guy suggested I get this instead. Other than the learning curb on my part and some teflon tape works with no spills, gluing or soldering. The best part I can remove it at any time and restore the original state of the supply line.

@ swffan Just noticed I got your user name mixed up with your forum level.

@ Hatchling You could also drill a small hole in the return line right above the water level to allow air into the line as well. The air entering the line will break the back siphon. Just make sure your sump as enough vertical space to allow for the residual back flow until the siphon is stopped. I prefer this method and use true union ball valves near the pumps input and output to control flow and easy removal if needed. Just another thought...as with anything its what works best for you.