Planning for the tank rebuild

[MBVette]

As the reconstruction moves forward at the building; I am starting to look at the rebuild of the tank at the school.

 

1st off I need to keep the tank the same size 72x24x30h as it fits perfectly into the alcove in the lobby; and all equipment needs to fit underneath. One of the few benefits of the fire is that the insurance company is paying which is letting me have someone else do the tank build so I can focus on things more important to the business. I will still do all the livestock and the running of the tank once its up; but no need for me to kill myself doing the build-out.

 

So first things first the tank. The dimensions are easy, but what would you guys do about the overflows? The old tank had a big center overflow with dual 1.5" drains. I am thinking about putting dual overflows in the corners and if possible having the back of the tank a light blue.

 

Then the sump, I had a 75g tank I put some baffles in, and I dont think I can go any bigger than that due to space constraints. I need to have an in-sump skimmer and room for any reactors that I will need to put in. How would you setup your sump knowing the size constraint that I have?

 

Any thoughts on the tank & sump would be greatly appreciated.

 

-Scott

[GraffitiSpotCorals]

Do a external full syphon overflow, that would be nice. I use the same sump and have it sectioned off with three sections.

[MBVette]

Do you have a pic of how the full siphon overflow works? Im not really familiar with it.

 

The only problem with an external overflow is that I have no room behind the tank; all plumbing either needs to be on the sides of the tank or drilled underneath.

Edited July 4, 2012 by MBVette

[MBVette]

ok so I am going to have adam from artfully acrylic build the tank for me. I am going with the same size tank 72x24x30h.

 

So I need to figure out the overflows and the returns. I am going to use a reeflo dart pump; and I am going to have dual overflows in the corner. What size drain holes should I make? Should I have 2, 1 1/2" drains? Then for returns I had 5 returns on the old tank 4 from the pump 1 from the UV. They were setup straight across the back; what size would you make these and would you do the same number?

 

Adam also asked me if I will use schedule 40 or 80 piping. Not sure the difference, is there a benefit of one over the other?

[DaveS]

How did you do the returns on the old tank? I'm curious since there is no space behind or to the sides.

 

i think corner overflows could be a nice alternative to the previous center overflow. I would do eurobracing to avoid a brace in the middle, not to mention the gigantic one that was in the old tank.

[MBVette]

The way the tank was setup there is about a 10" on the sides of the tank. So I ran the the returns up the side and then across te top to where they dropped into the tank from above.

[ArtFully Acrylic (Adam B)]

ok so I am going to have adam from artfully acrylic build the tank for me. I am going with the same size tank 72x24x30h.

 

So I need to figure out the overflows and the returns. I am going to use a reeflo dart pump; and I am going to have dual overflows in the corner. What size drain holes should I make? Should I have 2, 1 1/2" drains? Then for returns I had 5 returns on the old tank 4 from the pump 1 from the UV. They were setup straight across the back; what size would you make these and would you do the same number?

 

Adam also asked me if I will use schedule 40 or 80 piping. Not sure the difference, is there a benefit of one over the other?

 

Hi Scott, couple things here in order for me and others to give the best guidance...

 

A big factor in the recommendations you are looking for is going to be what you want your water turnover to be...Do you plan on having a total of 10 x's turnover through the tank with 5 x's going through the sump and the other 5 x's being via powerheads etc..? Using this as an example, your 1 1/2" drains are surely substantial enough to handle this flow.

 

As for Schedule 40 vs Schedule 80 bulkheads, the Schedule 80 bulkheads are "Heavy Duty" bulkheads. Technically the ratings between them come down to the PSI of the water going through them and which can handle it. In aquariums we don't even touch the max capable PSI that a Sch40 can handle so that point is mute. However, Sch80 bulkheads are less prone to cracking/leaking upon installation and thereafter if rigid piping puts pressure on them so some customers prefer the "peace of mind". Personally, Sch40 is fine in almost all cases.

 

 

The way the tank was setup there is about a 10" on the sides of the tank. So I ran the the returns up the side and then across te top to where they dropped into the tank from above.

 

In response to the question about full siphon overflows, and this little tidbit that you just mentioned in this quote, but didn't share through our emails ....you do have another option then. You could fit an external overflow on the side of the tank. Heck, if you have this 10" space on both sides you could do one on each side (though not necessary), thereby even further maximizing your skimming ability. Having the external overflow on the side would maximize your available in tank space and help keep an overall uncluttered look to the tank.

 

As for the full siphon overflows I think one of the better setups for this is the "Bean Animal" overflow. It consists of 3 drain holes (generally each 1" drains). One operates constantly at full siphon, the second operates as more of a trickle drain with minimal draining occurring unless the tank water level begins getting too high in which case it too will convert to full siphon. The third is a redundant emergency drain that almost exclusively stays empty...made for the complete "crap has it the fan" event where it can convert to full siphon to prevent a tank overflow. Using 1" bulkheads running into 1.5" standpipes this system will easily flow upwards of 2000GPH, so more than meets the requirements of your system. I also like this system because it doesn't require much tuning, it has redundant safety built in, and also because it is super quiet. Here is a link to more info on this system if you want to consider this as an option:

 

http://www.beananima...ow-system.aspx/

 

Also, with this setup on the side(s) your returns could come up through the overflow and side wall(s) as well, further keeping with the "clean" setup.

Edited July 6, 2012 by ArtFully Acrylic (Adam B)

[DaveS]

Like Art said, the primary difference for us between SCH40 and 80 is the cracking problem. People tend to over tighten fittings and crack them. Also, people bump into the pipes and cause things to break that way too. I have one fitting that I constantly hit as I walk by the tight squeeze so I'm really glad I went with SCH80 there. The disadvantage is that the holes have to be significantly bigger for SCH80. That's less of a problem with acrylic- especially if you can get the builder to drill them and avoid having to buy big hole saws.

 

Since you have space on the sides, how about an overflow on one side like Art suggested and the returns on the other?

[ArtFully Acrylic (Adam B)]

Here is a comparison for the difference in hole size needed for Sch40 vs Sch80

 

Schedule 40 Hole Sizes (Standard)

1/2" Bulkhead needs a 1-1/8" Hole

3/4" Bulkhead needs a 1-1/2" Hole

1" Bulkhead needs a 1-3/4" Hole

1-1/2" Bulkhead needs a 2-3/8" Hole

2" Bulkhead needs a 3" Hole

Schedule 80 Hole Sizes (Heavy Duty)

1/2" Bulkhead needs a 1-3/8" Hole

3/4" Bulkhead needs a 1-5/8" Hole

1" Bulkhead needs a 1-7/8" Hole

1-1/2" Bulkhead needs a 2-5/8" Hole

2" Bulkhead needs a 3-1/4" Hole

Edited July 6, 2012 by ArtFully Acrylic (Adam B)

[NAGA]

Here is a comparison for the difference in hole size needed for Sch40 vs Sch80

 

Schedule 40 Hole Sizes (Standard)

1/2" Bulkhead needs a 1-1/8" Hole

3/4" Bulkhead needs a 1-1/2" Hole

1" Bulkhead needs a 1-3/4" Hole

1-1/2" Bulkhead needs a 2-3/8" Hole

2" Bulkhead needs a 3" Hole

Schedule 80 Hole Sizes (Heavy Duty)

1/2" Bulkhead needs a 1-3/8" Hole

3/4" Bulkhead needs a 1-5/8" Hole

1" Bulkhead needs a 1-7/8" Hole

1-1/2" Bulkhead needs a 2-5/8" Hole

2" Bulkhead needs a 3-1/4" Hole

You still need to check with the mfgr. with sch80 as there are differences with holes needed with some brands. Id wait til bulkhead in hand or look at mfgr website.

[ArtFully Acrylic (Adam B)]

You still need to check with the mfgr. with sch80 as there are differences with holes needed with some brands. Id wait til bulkhead in hand or look at mfgr website.

 

This is absolutely true. Obviously provided only for comparison sake though. For reference, the sizes quoted are for bulkheads provided by www.aquabuys.com.