Aggressive Anthias

[splavey]

I recently added a trio (all females) of Bartlett Anthias to my reef tank. Everything was going well until yesterday, when I noticed the largest had gone rogue. She swims around the tank in an aggressive manner and delights in terrorizing my Helfrichi (unfortunately she has expensive taste). Would greatly appreciate your feedback.

[Jan]

If you don't have a male she may be making herself known and staking out her territory and in the process of changing to a male. Males are more aggressive. When you have 3 females with no male one will usually morph in about 10 days to a male.

 

I recently added a trio (all females) of Bartlett Anthias to my reef tank. Everything was going well until yesterday, when I noticed the largest had gone rogue. She swims around the tank in an aggressive manner and delights in terrorizing my Helfrichi (unfortunately she has expensive taste). Would greatly appreciate your feedback.

Edited June 13, 2012 by Jan

[Chad]

^yep, I agree.

 

It's always a tentative task adding a group of anthias to a tank... I have added groups of 15 expecting a few not to make it and ended up with a group of 15 and have added other large groups and had none or one make it.

 

IME, transitional anthias are the most aggressive and most likely to go after other vaguely similar fish (other anthias, mimic blennies, etc.). Sometimes this aggression will pass, especially if the other fish is more established (the reason I always add anthias groups last). If you have a QT, or HT, you could try moving the group of anthias to that tank (with adequate hiding spots) while they establish their pecking order (a few weeks). Once that's done, move them back to the DT and try again. Hopefull that will help.

 

I have a feeling that moving the firefish won't work as well since they are much more passive, and you want to disturb the territory of the aggressor rather than the victim.

[splavey]

Makes sense - thanks! I hope she calms down a bit after she changes to a he.

[Jan]

He will a little. He'll be more concerned about keeping his harem in check. i just purchased 3 more females to add to the 2 females and 1 male I already have. He's letting them all know who's boss, lol. It's so interesting to watch. If one strays too far he goes after her and makes her stay close. Possessive and a bully! Must be insecure. LOL!!!

 

Makes sense - thanks! I hope she calms down a bit after she changes to a he.

[GraffitiSpotCorals]

What about having two males and two females in the same tank?

[Chad]

^usually it won't work out well (at least with some of the more pugnacious species), but sometimes it does.

[Jan]

I think only if there are a lot of females.

[GraffitiSpotCorals]

Well so far so good, it's been over two months I would guess. Two males and two females, the males play around chasing each other every now and then but no harm done yet.

[Chad]

^that's cool!

 

Just out of curiosity, what species?

[Sharkey18]

Thanks for the info Chad. I have had the same thing happen. I put 6 Anthias in a tank and I end up with one. This has happened to me twice!

 

I really appreciate that I'm not the only one. I am waiting for my new tank to cycle and looking forward to trying again but will take your and Jans advice and see how it goes.

[GraffitiSpotCorals]

^that's cool!

 

Just out of curiosity, what species?

 

Am guessing lyertails.

[Steve175]

Very useful thread/thanks! I am getting ready to add a large group of Bartlett's as the final addition to the DT. I've a large cycled QT and plan to house them there for 4-6 weeks. I have heard that the frequent deaths with anthias are related both to transitioning them from live foods to flate/pellet and frequency of feeding long-term. Any advice here?

[chucelli]

during food transition, always feed their favorite foods last. Feeding multiple times a day is a must, unless you somehow get lucky with some piggy individuals.

For example, if feeding 4 times a day, feed whatever you plan on feeding long-term the first two sessions (don't worry if they don't eat). It also helps to insert the food where there is strong water movement. Then, in the end, feed their favorite food (which they should always eat). Then reduce their favorite food feedings to once a day at the end of the day after the 4th feeding. Then eventually you can stop feeding their favorite/live food altogether. You really have to saturate the water column with food so the most docile individuals can feed. The dominant male will chase away all others who attempt to feed. It's always a challenge for the "lesser" ones to get enough to eat.

 

-Robert

[Jan]

My homemade fish food sounds perfect for this . It's irresistible! ...you wont ever have to stop feeding them their favorite food .

 

during food transition, always feed their favorite foods last. Feeding multiple times a day is a must, unless you somehow get lucky with some piggy individuals.

For example, if feeding 4 times a day, feed whatever you plan on feeding long-term the first two sessions (don't worry if they don't eat). It also helps to insert the food where there is strong water movement. Then, in the end, feed their favorite food (which they should always eat). Then reduce their favorite food feedings to once a day at the end of the day after the 4th feeding. Then eventually you can stop feeding their favorite/live food altogether. You really have to saturate the water column with food so the most docile individuals can feed. The dominant male will chase away all others who attempt to feed. It's always a challenge for the "lesser" ones to get enough to eat.

 

-Robert

[chucelli]

your fish are spoiled

mine get only pellets and flakes from the auto-feeder...

sometimes if I'm around during feeding time, I'll give them some cyclopeez...

[Jan]

Yes, they are . They are worth it for the peace and pleasure they give me. They eat pellet, flake, cyclopeeze, rotifors, mysis and nori too.

 

4 June 2012 - 02:16 PM' timestamp='1339697766' post='423430']

your fish are spoiled

mine get only pellets and flakes from the auto-feeder...

sometimes if I'm around during feeding time, I'll give them some cyclopeez...

[Chad]

Very useful thread/thanks! I am getting ready to add a large group of Bartlett's as the final addition to the DT. I've a large cycled QT and plan to house them there for 4-6 weeks. I have heard that the frequent deaths with anthias are related both to transitioning them from live foods to flate/pellet and frequency of feeding long-term. Any advice here?

 

I agree with Robert, above.

 

To build some, though. Anthias are planktivores and actively feed on small stuff out of the water column very frequently. My experience has been that they don't transition well without some of the same sorts of food as they are used to. The one that I find works best is frozen cyclopeeze, almost all I have seen eat it. When they are in QT, it really is best to feed 4-5 times a day. Remember, you can easily control when it's daytime (i.e., when the lights are on), so change the schedule to meet your capabilities. Long-term, you should plan to feed 4-5 times a day with an auto feeder. This will usually work for all but the most temperamental species (like purple queens).

 

For transitioning them to a prepared food that you can use with the auto feeder, it will help if you can add some other common and hardy fish (like chromis) to the mix in QT that already eats flake or pellets, it will help them realize what's going on at feeding time. Other than that, do like Robert says and feed the pellets first then the frozen food you know they'll take. Eventually they will get it, just observe and make sure that there is a transition taking place before removing the frozen completely.

 

Good luck!! I absolutely love anthias, and I can't wait to see them in your tank!

[Steve175]

(Thanks Robert and Chad for the advice!. Sorry Splavey to steal the thread)

[splavey]

(Thanks Robert and Chad for the advice!. Sorry Splavey to steal the thread)

I've been soaking up all of the years of experience - thanks all!!