BowieReefer84 April 30, 2012 Share April 30, 2012 Nope, I am not going to tell you how. I need to know how to do it. I have read oil based primer and top coat is the way to go, but any specific guidance and product information would be greatly appreciated. I have googled, but find conflicting information. Also, I would rather use a brush or roller. Do not have access to spray equipment. TIA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind April 30, 2012 Share April 30, 2012 What, conflicting info on the internet. I would not do the thinning of wood glue to seal the MDF that some recommend. It tends to crack on down the road because of the differing layers of material. I also don't like using the joint compound to fill in cracks on cut ends for the same reason. Use a good wood filler if needed on the ends. A good oil based primer, sanded between coats, and then the top coated are fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k April 30, 2012 Share April 30, 2012 I recommend not using MDF at all around any kind of water. It has a huge failure rate on aquarium cabinetry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 April 30, 2012 Author Share April 30, 2012 I recommend not using MDF at all around any kind of water. It has a huge failure rate on aquarium cabinetry. It would just be cosmetic. Stand is metal. Was going to order some prefab MDF panels like these: http://www.nakedkitchencabinetdoors.com/ Very cheap, made to size, and I could just paint them and throw some magnets on the back... What would you do Rob? I am open to better ideas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k April 30, 2012 Share April 30, 2012 It would just be cosmetic. Stand is metal. Was going to order some prefab MDF panels like these: http://www.nakedkitchencabinetdoors.com/ Very cheap, made to size, and I could just paint them and throw some magnets on the back... What would you do Rob? I am open to better ideas. Don't cheap out on the stand finishing. Get marine grade plywood and if you don't like the grain pattern, then use a veneer to cover it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 April 30, 2012 Author Share April 30, 2012 I want a black stand, not trying to be cheap. Where can I get the plywood? I have no tools... Actually was debating on having the mdf panels painted black and clear coated by a buddy at a bodyshop. That would be slick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k May 1, 2012 Share May 1, 2012 I want a black stand, not trying to be cheap. Where can I get the plywood? I have no tools... Actually was debating on having the mdf panels painted black and clear coated by a buddy at a bodyshop. That would be slick. if you insist on using mdf, you need to seal it against water intrusion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikS May 1, 2012 Share May 1, 2012 (edited) A good oil based primer, sanded between coats, and then the top coated are fine. Agree, that's the recommended approach. You can also use sanding sealer on MDF, works well (I'd still use the oil based primer). You can use latex over the primer, that will work just fine. The problem with latex primers is they're water based = not so good for MDF Sealed it will be fine unless there's significant water intrusion/contact (the seal gets breached). Under the same conditions plywood will fail just as well, it will delaminate (unless it's marine grade = $$$$$). On the upside since it's not structural if the MDF fails you can replace it fairly cheaply. Edited May 1, 2012 by ErikS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 May 1, 2012 Author Share May 1, 2012 Ok, I think I am going to order a small mdf cabinet face to do a "test" panel, and see how it works. So primer, sand, primer, sand, primer, sand, top coat, top coat, sand, top coat? Something like that? haha What grit sandpaper would you guys recommend? Last question, is there a clear coat product I can apply over the top coat to get it nice and shiny? Thanks so much everyone (even you Rob) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallreef May 1, 2012 Share May 1, 2012 you really only need 2 coats of primer... and 200 grit sand paper if the MDF is ultra smooth when you get it should be fine....youll need quite a few sheets if you are doing it by hand....if you have an orbital sander it would be alot easier... and 2 - 3 coats of the top coat and you can always apply a shiny shellac ontop (need to sand between coats of that too, lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coral Hind May 1, 2012 Share May 1, 2012 ^ Good advice. Anything between 180-220 would be good. A light sanding between top coats helps since you are not spraying, it knocks down the ridges left by the brush. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 May 1, 2012 Author Share May 1, 2012 This is sounding like a very time consuming project, and I am sure the materials would not be cheap. The guy I know at the body shop said $200 for painting the 4 panels black with a high end clear coat. I may just take him up on it when the time comes. I am not much of a DIY'er, and want it to look nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RubberFrog May 1, 2012 Share May 1, 2012 ^ It will look 1000 times better if you let him do it. I don't care how good you are with a brush, you cant beat a sprayed on color coat and clear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Integral9 May 1, 2012 Share May 1, 2012 Sounds like some good advice here, but if you are still looking for options then you might look into the Kilz products. I've never tried it on MDF before, but Kilz2 (latex) would be what I would try and then paint over it w/ what ever color you wanted. If you wanted the oil based, then Kilz (original) is what I would use. As for making it shiny, I'd just use glossy paint. But if you want to go futher, you should also be able to find a rattle can of clear coat. The clear coat will add some depth to the paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcoop78 May 1, 2012 Share May 1, 2012 You could do what I am doing.... I am having a millwork company laminate pieces of MDF on all 6 sides with black p-lam (plastic laminate) this seals the MDF and gives it a slick black finish. Let me know if you have an interest in going this route and I'll give you a contact #. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 May 1, 2012 Author Share May 1, 2012 You could do what I am doing.... I am having a millwork company laminate pieces of MDF on all 6 sides with black p-lam (plastic laminate) this seals the MDF and gives it a slick black finish. Let me know if you have an interest in going this route and I'll give you a contact #. Have any pictures? Would def be interested in finding out more info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcoop78 May 1, 2012 Share May 1, 2012 Have any pictures? Would def be interested in finding out more info. Not yet. This is a favor being done for me so I'm not rushing the guy.... I wil likely get it in a week or so and will send you pics. I plan to do just like you mentioned, add magnets and "skin" the steel frame.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 May 1, 2012 Author Share May 1, 2012 Not yet. This is a favor being done for me so I'm not rushing the guy.... I wil likely get it in a week or so and will send you pics. I plan to do just like you mentioned, add magnets and "skin" the steel frame.. Yea, I am in no rush either. Taking my good ol time stockpiling for the "upgrade." Here is the stand I will be skinning: stand by mteske1, on Flickr Also, plan on painting the steel with this for sound deadening and protection above and beyond a coat of paint: http://www.lowes.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&cId=SEARCH&productId=3184045&cm_mmc=SCE_gps-_-gps-_-gps-_-Rust-Oleum%20Quart%20Exterior%20Flat%20Paint&CAWELAID=1080020767 Found these countersunk magnets: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=173 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcoop78 May 2, 2012 Share May 2, 2012 Yea, I am in no rush either. Taking my good ol time stockpiling for the "upgrade." Here is the stand I will be skinning: stand by mteske1, on Flickr Also, plan on painting the steel with this for sound deadening and protection above and beyond a coat of paint: http://www.lowes.com...LAID=1080020767 Found these countersunk magnets: http://www.kjmagneti...cts.asp?cat=173 Looks very much like mine... except I was the idiot that but a center brace across the top and bottom which of course completely blocked the hole for my drain bulkhead.... THAT is is the real reason my tank is not centered on my stand.... Always in a rush..... I don't think I'm going to use countersunk magnets... I plan to screw some on so they attach on the inside of the vertical supports, as to help keep the skin exactly where I want it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 May 2, 2012 Author Share May 2, 2012 I'm not sure what you mean on the "inside of the vertical supports." I will follow your build to see how it works out before making a decision... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marc Weaver May 2, 2012 Share May 2, 2012 I can get you aluminum panels from work, powder coated black. You'll still have to attach them with black screws, I can add countersunk holes. It should be around $150 if you don't want a back panel. If you are interested in a price I'll figure it up for you, just for another option. Powder coat gets salt-spray tested for marine applications (we use it for destroyers for the navy.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 May 2, 2012 Author Share May 2, 2012 I can get you aluminum panels from work, powder coated black. You'll still have to attach them with black screws, I can add countersunk holes. It should be around $150 if you don't want a back panel. If you are interested in a price I'll figure it up for you, just for another option. Powder coat gets salt-spray tested for marine applications (we use it for destroyers for the navy.) I'm going to pass, but thank you for the generous offer. I want some wood to give some sound deadening. Metal on metal would probably echo pretty badly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ErikS May 3, 2012 Share May 3, 2012 I'm going to pass, but thank you for the generous offer. I want some wood to give some sound deadening. Metal on metal would probably echo pretty badly. I'd use the aluminum, that would be slick & very nice (durable). As for sound - that's easy, just use some sound deadening material. There are several types, such as http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-515 You can also use sheet type materials such as http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=260-318 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcoop78 May 16, 2012 Share May 16, 2012 Well I got those panels delivered to me today... Here is a pic for ya- Just MDF wrapped in all six sides with P-Lam.. The stuff comes in every color, pattern, texture imaginable.. Lemme know if you like it and I can get you a quote. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BowieReefer84 May 17, 2012 Author Share May 17, 2012 I am going to go a different direction than that type of panel, but I appreciate you updating me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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