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how long do lights need to be on?


davidm

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My tank (180 gal with SPS and LPS, plus 50 gal sump) has been getting too hot lately. I haven't had this problem in previous years, but I do now. It starts at 27.5 degrees C in the morning and hits 30 degrees by the end of the day. Before I started using all the fans I could find, it hit 30.5. I already have one fan on the sump, and two on the tank. I imagine the 3 x 400W MH lights are the key culprits. It's an open top tank - with hanging Diamond Lighting square reflectors. So my question is how much can I reduce the daylight hours, to reduce heat production, before the corals notice? I was running from 1PM to midnight, but I changed it today to run from 3-midnight.

 

thanks, David

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Wow, that's hot. (81.5F to 86.9F) Sounds like you need a chiller. What's the ambient temperature at your home? Perhaps you could crank down your thermostat couple of degrees. If the problem started occurring recently (last 2 days were unusually hot) my suspicion is that this is your key issue - not your Metal Halides.

 

-Rob

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On a side note, at what type of temp (or how fast of a change) will we start seeing problems with the corals? Monday I had left my windows open, and the temperature in the tanks got into the high 80's. Monday night, I started up the AC and the temperature has since gone back to normal (81 degrees, not much fluctuation). All the corals seemed to open up fine with the exception of the montipora digitata, which for the first time didn't show any polyps at all the whole light cycle.

 

The only other change was the additon of the hammer coral on Saturday.

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Man three 400 MHs- I would do like the RC guy who just got TOTM- I would have one of the MHs come on then wait 30 minutes or so and have a second come on then a third- and then reverse the process with the middle light staying on the longest- total MH lights could be brought down to about 8 hours or less- if you supplement with Actinics- which could cover the rest of the 12 hours worth of light- This should cut down on electricity and heat-- you could go back to a bit longer time on the MHs during the winter. Just a thought- I would consider a lot of things before cranking up a chiller. I have been able to control my heat with a clip on 9 inch fan and regulating how high over the sump I place it. I found the fans in the canopy to be noisy and not much help.

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BUY A CHILLER, THAT WILL SOLVE ALL YOUR PROBLEM, I HAVE 3-400WATT MH AND HAD ABOUT A 5 TO 6 DEG CHARGE THROUGH OUT THE DAY, NOW THE TEMP STAYS THE SAME ALL THE TIME.

 

ERIC

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I don't have the funds for a $600 chiller (or even $400)...

 

So, I just switched to my "summer hours." My lights come on at 5pm and go off at 5am. I also run three fans during the day, continuously.

 

The staggering of the photoperiod, like Lee said, should also help.

 

Cheers

Mike

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Man three 400 MHs- I would do like the RC guy who just got TOTM- I would have one of the MHs come on then wait 30 minutes or so and have a second come on then a third- and then reverse the process with the middle light staying on the longest- total MH lights could be brought down to

 

That's similar to what I'm planning to do over my new 180.

11:00 - 2x96W PC smartlamps ON

11:30 - 1 250W Ushio (East) ON

12:00 - 1 250W Ushio (Center) ON

12:30 - 1 250W Ushio (West) ON

21:30 - 1 250W Ushio (East) OFF

22:00 - 1 250W Ushio (Center) OFF

22:30 - 1 250W Ushio (West) OFF

23:00 - 2x96W PC smartlamps OFF

 

All MH bulbs get even wear daily. First one on, first one off. Now I just need to find a timer strip that can pull it off.

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thanks for the advice guys, but i'm still trying to avoid buying a chiller (I can't imagine the cost for a chiller for a 180 gal + 50 gal sump). First thing I did was convince the wife to keep the house at 72-73 degrees or so. (She won't go for putting the house at 60 (women!)).

 

So, I'm still on the original question - has anyone read what's the minimum photoperiod? Although staggering the lights might help, I think the minimum duration the lights are on is the most critical issue. thanks, David

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So, I'm still on the original question - has anyone read what's the minimum photoperiod?  Although staggering the lights might help, I think the minimum duration the lights are on is the most critical issue.  thanks, David

 

Well I have 4x96W PCs on a 75... montis, no acros. Some LPS, softies. I run lights from 2pm-3pm (dawn), 3pm-10pm (day), 10pm-11pm (dusk).

 

That's 9 hours sunup to sundown, but again, you gotta take into account what's in the tank.

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thanks for the advice guys, but i'm still trying to avoid buying a chiller (I can't imagine the cost for a chiller for a 180 gal + 50 gal sump).  First thing I did was convince the wife to keep the house at 72-73 degrees or so.  (She won't go for putting the house at 60 (women!)). 

 

So, I'm still on the original question - has anyone read what's the minimum photoperiod?  Although staggering the lights might help, I think the minimum duration the lights are on is the most critical issue.  thanks, David

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David I don't know that I've read a minimum... although I have know people who for a short time when as low as 8 hours of lighting over their tanks.

 

Mostly I would think you would see reduced growth...

 

Have you tried a fan though blowing over your tank and/or sump?.... You would be surprised how much cooling evaporation does.

 

Dave

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Guest alex wlazlak

wow!i dont have enough cash for mh's, but i got pc's and i only run them from 3:00p.m.-9:30 ish.i also had a pretty big algea problem..but its getting much much more better now, i am running my skimmer for the first time in forever!tank looks good now..

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David,

 

Are your pumps external (main and skimmer)?

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My return pump is external (Iwaki) and a floor below the tank, within the tank is one Tunze Stream. I couldn't change this configuration easily, and I think the stream doesn't produce much heat.

 

I'm going to slowly migrate the hours to more night-time hours, although I'm not sure how this will help given we keep the house at 72-73 throughout the day. I may also try to install a stronger fan directly blowing onto (and dissipating the heat from) the reflectors and tank surface.

 

David

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Externals - smart of you - I have 3 internal pumps and sometimes the chiller comes on when the lights aren't even on so I know that's a big factor. I've staggered my halides so that only 1 set is on during the main hours and the other 2 sets are not on at the same time. That's been a big help and kept the temp within the acceptable range.

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