Vadim January 2, 2011 Share January 2, 2011 The TDS Meter is reading 0.02 on the filtered water. I was wondering if it's still ok to use the water for water exchanges until i get new filters. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami January 2, 2011 Share January 2, 2011 0.02 what? You often don't see TDS meters that read in hundredths of ppm. If your reading is 2 ppm, you can still use it, but I'd work on getting those filters changed out as your DI resin will start to release loosely bound ions like phosphate (that were trapped earlier) in preference for other ions that can be bound more tightly. I saw that Fins and Feathers in Ashburn has bulk DI resin from BRS in stock and on the shelf. A little far, but its there if you need it. You would need to have a refillable DI cartridge, though, to make use of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadim January 2, 2011 Author Share January 2, 2011 i've got the air water ice typhoon system. it is reading 0.02, just checked it again. i'll need to see if that's equal to 2 ppm. Are there filters that are better then others? Or all take out the same junk? thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami January 2, 2011 Share January 2, 2011 Vadim, I replace all my filters twice a year except for the DI resin which is changed whenever my TDS begins to creep up (and, of course, my RO membrane, which is good for around 3 years). But I also use pretty close to 50 gallons a week. My DI resin depletes faster than my other filters, though. If it's been a while since you changed out your sediment filters and carbon blocks, I'd go ahead and do so. I can't recall if my Typhoon III came with a refillable DI resin cartridge or not, though. Knowing that for your system will help you determine whether or not you need to buy loose resin, or a new DI resin cartridge. If your DI resin depletes often, I would go ahead and invest in a refillable cartridge as they're really not that expensive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadim January 2, 2011 Author Share January 2, 2011 thanks for the input, really appreciate it. this is my first ro/di system. so im still trying to get used to it. hook it up the way i'll like it. which not sure if to hook it up permanently or in a way if i need to move it i can. I bought a faucet adaptor and used it that way. I live in a condo, not sure how long i'll be here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami January 2, 2011 Share January 2, 2011 You're welcome. Mine is directly hooked in but my roots are deeper here (I've been in this house for 13 years this month). Hooking it into the plumbing saves the effort of having to set it up each time. Your situation is obviously different. I'd keep hooking it up manually until you feel that it's a pain to do so. What is the make & model of your TDS meter? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadim January 2, 2011 Author Share January 2, 2011 TDS Meter dual In-Line made by HM Digital. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami January 2, 2011 Share January 2, 2011 TDS Meter dual In-Line made by HM Digital. If it's the DM-1 or DM-2, the resolution on the unit is 1 ppm up to 990 ppm. Thus, you're probably getting a reading of 2 ppm. Here's the spec summary on the DM-1: http://www.tdsmeter.com/products/dm1.html It says, "Dual Range 0-9990 ppm (From 0 - 999 ppm the resolution is 1 ppm. From 1000 to 9990 ppm, the resolution is 10 ppm, indicated by a blinking 'x10' image.)" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FearTheTerps January 2, 2011 Share January 2, 2011 I have the DM-1 meter that Tom mentioned above, if its reading 002 that means 2 ppm. You should see the "ppm" in small letters to the right of the 2. When are you getting the reading? Sometimes my meter will read 1 when I first turn on my unit. I always flush the membrane for a few minutes before I collect any water. After a few mintues the meter then reads back down to zero. As far as set up, I went the facuet adapter route at first too. That was until the adapter got stuck on my faucet and I was trying so hard to get it off that I broke the entire faucet off the sink. When I went to buy the new faucet I also bought all the plumbing parts to hard plumb my unit under the sink. If you have flexible tubing under your sink its a pretty easy installation. About 10-15 bucks worth of parts, 20 minutes of your time and you will never have to use the faucet adapter ever again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kngfisher January 2, 2011 Share January 2, 2011 Before you replace your filters you need to look at your rejection ratio of your membrane(s). For example if your membrane can only reject 98% and the tds of the water entering your unit is high for instance mine is 174, it would be very unlikely that the filtered(product) water would ever be 0. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Lazar January 2, 2011 Share January 2, 2011 Before you replace your filters you need to look at your rejection ratio of your membrane(s). For example if your membrane can only reject 98% and the tds of the water entering your unit is high for instance mine is 174, it would be very unlikely that the filtered(product) water would ever be 0. kngfisher, If your tap water is 174, your RO product water should be around 3-4, and the post-DI product water should be zero. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami January 2, 2011 Share January 2, 2011 ^^ By the way, I assume that the 2 ppm reading was on the output side, not on your input side. The first side of my dual tds meter is set to measure the output from my RO stage; the second side is set to measure the output of my DI side. If you're 2 ppm TDS reading is from the output of your RO membrane, I wouldn't worry (as kngfisher says). However, if it's on the output side of your DI, then your DI resin is functionally depleted and, at the very least, needs changing. I change out my upstream filters on a regular basis in order to protect my RO membrane. Chlorine, for example, can slowly compromise a membrane. That's one of the reasons why we run carbon ahead of it. I'd much rather change out my carbon on a regular basis using a regular maintenance program, than to have to replace my membrane when I've detected that it's failing because I haven't done my preventative maintenance. Definitely take your reading well after the RO unit has started. At first, it's almost always high - even with backflushing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadim January 4, 2011 Author Share January 4, 2011 my intake is 145ppm my out is 0.02ppm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadim January 4, 2011 Author Share January 4, 2011 i am mixing up water right now, using the ro/di system. as i am going back and forth checking on the tds meter. it's up to 0.06ppm. definitely need new filters. but now did i waste the salt? what is the threshold of ppm that when the water is no good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FearTheTerps January 4, 2011 Share January 4, 2011 (edited) Is there a decimal point on the meter? Thats where some of the confussion is, I've never seen a TDS meter with decimal points. So when you are saying 0.02ppm we are thinking 2ppm. 0.02ppm would be 20 parts per billion, I dont think its that accurate. I dont thinking using your water mixed up at 6 ppm would cause any damage since you are only doing it once, just make sure to get new filters before you make any more water. Edited January 4, 2011 by FearTheTerps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vadim January 4, 2011 Author Share January 4, 2011 my fault, i feel stupid. there is no decimal point. i was looking at it from a distance and it looked like there was a decimal point. so it's 002 ppm and 145 ppm. just to add on. i lessened the pressure of the water from my faucet as i did that. meter went down to 001 ppm. it makes sense since the lower the pressure the system get's more out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Origami January 5, 2011 Share January 5, 2011 my fault, i feel stupid. there is no decimal point. i was looking at it from a distance and it looked like there was a decimal point. so it's 002 ppm and 145 ppm. just to add on. i lessened the pressure of the water from my faucet as i did that. meter went down to 001 ppm. it makes sense since the lower the pressure the system get's more out? The lower pressure will help improve quality, but the rejection rate will suffer (that is, you'll waste more water), not to mention it will take longer to produce the water (the cold weather hinders this, too). If you're taking your measurement after your DI stage, I'm pretty sure that your DI resin is exhausted and that you should change it before any more production. When you got your Typhoon III, did it come with a handheld TDS meter? If so, can you tell me what your TDS reading is of the water coming out of your membrane (and into your DI stage)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kngfisher March 25, 2011 Share March 25, 2011 One easy way to see if it's time to change the di, take a tds reading before and after the di chamber. Exhausted di resin will add tds back into your product water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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