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Tank Cycling, what is considered an ammonia spike?


TonyInVa

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I know you want ammonia high at the begining of the cycle, how high should it go to start the cycling process?

It doesn't always spike really high it usually just registers at 2ppm but a tank is never fully mature until after a year, so you are constantly watching the cycle, to make sure after the first spike you don't add to many animals and continue to get ammonia spikes. Basically its easier controled after the first spike. You will see your ammonias first then your Nitrites will climb high then your Nitrates. But not all tanks have the same readings so just look for them in this sequence. Hope this helps you out.

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It depends on the amount of die-off you experience when you introduce your live rock. The ammonia is caused by the dead bacteria. The bacteria die from being out of the water too long. As the ammonia level comes down, the bacteria population comes back. If you don't have a high spike, then definitely introduce fish slowly because you *may* have a small bacteria colony. You'll need to let the bacteria colony size increase as you add more fish so that they can process the ammonia as it's generated.

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I know you want ammonia high at the begining of the cycle, how high should it go to start the cycling process?

 

You don't "want ammonia high" really. Ammonia is a natural consequence of cycling as stuff dies off. Personally, if I'm introducing live rock that has a lot of macroscopic life on it (like coraline, macro algae, etc.) I try to make sure that the ammonia is controlled (with water changes) so that it never gets above 1 ppm. The reason I do this is that a high spike in ammonia can cause the die off of this other life, raising the ammonia level further. So my cycling approach goes something like this for ammonia levels:

 

0 ppm ==> 1 ppm ==> water change ==> 0.5 ppm ==> 1 ppm ==> water change ==> 0.5 ppm ==> 0 ppm (end of cycle, after nitrites/nitrates surge passes)

 

You do need something to start the cycle, though, if you're starting out with dry, dead rock. Some people do this by putting a small piece of frozen shrimp in the tank for a day or two in order to encourage bacteria growth. There are plenty of resources on the web that tell how to do this.

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The reason I ask, is my readings are at .5ppm. Many sites recommend putting a dead shrimp in to raise ammonia to start the cycle. If ammonia is at .5ppm, is this enough to start the cycle?

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The reason I ask, is my readings are at .5ppm. Many sites recommend putting a dead shrimp in to raise ammonia to start the cycle. If ammonia is at .5ppm, is this enough to start the cycle?

Yes, it is enough, but why?

 

I no longer subscribe to the 1 year theory nor do I believe you must have a hard cycle to have a "good" cycle.

Many of the products, both old and new, that can aid in cycling or establishing proper bacteria colonies are worth their weight in gold.

To name a few, a bottle product called "Cycle", a hard scape product called "Arragalive" sand and of course established rock from an already established tank break down that has been handled properly, chemipure, chemiclean, etc. can mitigate all the issues many a reefers have experienced in the past. These are not limited to those I mentioned, just popped into my head for this purpose.

As mentioned above, keeping up with quality matched w/c is the greatest way to keep things in check from the start all the way to the end.

 

That said, I still feel most can expect to experience a small form of a tank cycle, but nothing like years ago and it doesn't have to be.

I helped many a new tank owners get rolling in a fraction of the OLD time using simple good reefing techniques.

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+1 on MB7. It is amazing in a new tank. You will get a nice baterial colony in 24 hours and can feel comfortable about adding livestock. Your ammonia will dissappear in hours.

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