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Inline LED design


chucelli

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Finally got a chance to document a recent inline style custom build.

This has been in the works for a while, developed in tandem with the pendent style, but didn't get a chance to do any proper documentation until now.

Emitters used: Cree XR-E Q5 bin CW and 450nm RB.

Emitter number: 12 per array, total of 3 arrays = 36 LEDs for this build.

Drive current: 700mA

LED color ratio: 1:1 blue/white

Optics used 80˚ center unit, 60˚ side units.

 

Inline Array12.

55rzop.jpg

 

testing.

2lvn4eb.jpg

 

Delivery!

a0b8ur.jpg

 

Originally designed as three separately adjustable units, it was decided since there were corals growing on the glass, that one single unit would work better. So the trio were fused together.

30ubapw.jpg

10z1fld.jpg

2vajb0m.jpg

 

FTS. Wires still need to be organized and hidden.

30cn88h.jpg

2iscgt3.jpg

 

Some closer shots to show color.

wrn8me.jpg

2j5ih46.jpg

 

 

Anyone who is interested in seeing these inline systems in person, talk to Nate or Renato.

The original pendent style units can be seen at Tropical Lagoon in Silver Spring as well as Tropical Fishworld in Gaithersburg.

-Robert

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Forgot to add,

for comparison reference,

The unit at TFW is mounted next to a 400w SE metal halide lamp.

The one at TL is mounted next to a 250w HQI metal halide lamp.

-R

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Chucelli

What is the spacing of the LED and what size tank are they on? Also what length of channel aluminum is that.

Thanks

Jim

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Thanks guys.

Ideal (and conservative) emitter spacing I have come up with through testing is 3 emitters per foot of this type of channel, when LEDs are run at 700mA. This could be pushed, but I would not be comfortable putting them next to hot halides with densities exceeding 3 per foot.

Jim, the cube is 70 gallons in volume I believe. Channel length for this particular build is 3'. Here is a link to his dedicated tank thread:

http://www.wamas.org/forums/topic/33546-el-camarons-70-gallon-cube-upgrade/page__st__50

David, endcaps are an option. However, maximum heat dissipation is better achieved leaving ends "open".

I want to add that, although there is more room in skimping on cooling, I opted for a more conservative approach, due to the fact that I want to ensure my units will maintain lumen output for the spec'd 11 years (when run 12 hours per day), since any decrease in output won't be detected by the user until a 50% output decrease has happened. Without a robust cooling design, it is hard to calculate proper replacement intervals.

-R

Edited by chucelli
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(edited)

I like the light set up. Great job. The water level in your overflow looks a little sketchy to me me though... If anything even slightly clogs that up, it will spill over your pretty quickly. Maybe I'm missing something. Just going by the water level I see in the pic. ;)

Edited by audible
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(edited)

audible,

tanks pictured in this thread are not my tanks. I only designed and built lighting units for them. You can go here to post comments relating to Renato's tank:

-R

Edited by chucelli
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What did you use for cooling the LEDS ?

Thanks

Jim

Chucelli I pulled the trigger and me and a friend have purchased about 300 LED for our large reef tanks just waiting for our 22 meanwells to come in.I thought I had figured out what I wanted to do then you had to show me these channels of aluminum.

Thanks Again

Jim

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Jim,

jut FYI, for 300 3w Cree emitters, you are 3 Meanwells short if we are talking about the 48v Meanwells.

Anything more than 12 emitters per 48v Meanwell is pushing it slightly.

To your question,

this inline design does not need active cooling due to the relatively low density of LEDs in the given area.

-R

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I meant 24 meanwells purchased a few extra LEDs just in case I am starting out with installing 120 LEDS on my tank and if I need to increase them I will.

Thanks

Jim

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I would sure like to add a little shimmer on my ATI Power Module. Do you thing a dozen of those white leds spread across 5 feet of channel would do it? I might need some tight optics to keep it from being washed out.

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old reefer,

a dozen of the whites with tight optics will be the way to go. However, the shimmer would definitely be slightly washed out. Hard to say since I've never seen that application in person...

The shimmer could be further enhanced by limiting the amount of T5 whites so there is more contrast between the two light sources.

-R

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Went to both of the stores yesterday to look at your LEDS you can definitely see the difference in the shimmer of MH and the LEDS.The LEDS had more of a shimmering effect then the LEDS I personally like the look and am looking forward to getting my drivers and building my set.Chucelli They look great in person.Can You believe I went to two stores and didn't spend a dime.Not so lucky today though or lucky how ever you look at it.

 

Jim

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