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My 90g reef


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Looking good. The stand is beautiful. Very nice work. What do you plan on putting in the tank? Have you thought of that yet?

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I used electrical conduit and made the same L brackets for $4 a piece...

 

Going to have to look into that and find a way to see if i can add or replace it with the PVC on there now... thanks John!

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Looking good. The stand is beautiful. Very nice work. What do you plan on putting in the tank? Have you thought of that yet?

 

Thank you :)

 

Well i have 2 tanks up and running right now, just have a lot of zoas and palys and other LPS so im getting to throw them in there. This tank will be mainly zs and ps and LPS mainly chalices :).

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(edited)

I built these way before I knew about WAMAS or I would have already made step by step instructions, but since it may benefit you I'll go ahead and do it now!

 

Materials needed:

metal electrical conduit

metal electrical conduit bender

2 conduit brackets for each support

scrap craft board

picture frame wire

few bolts

screws

Drill/screw driver

 

Bend your electrical conduit to make your 90 degree using the conduit bender tool. Fortunately, there is a lot of construction on the street so the electrician let me use his. I really didn't want to make the ~$50 investment for a tool I would use this one time. Make sure to mark your conduit pieces to ensure the bends are even.

 

Next, take your new "L" supports and scrap craft board to the back of your stand to determine the height of your supports. The scrap board will be screwed into your stand and the conduit will sit on the ledge of the craft board. It's okay to go taller because you will use your picture frame wire to adjust final height of the fixture.

 

Once craft board is screwed into your stand, take each "L" support and fasten them to the stand using your conduit brakets, one at the bottom slightly above the scrap board and one at the top of your stand. This ensures the conduit will not bend. Your downforce is supported by the board, and your lateral force is supported by the brackets.

 

Once each "L" bracket is installed, you need to determine where on the "L" bracket your want to suspend your light (i.e. center of the tank). NOTE: This will depend on your fixture, but mine has two holes drilled into the top/center of the fixture.

 

Once you're centered, take the condit out and drill a small hole into the conduit. Next, take your picture frame wire and wrap around a bolt. Insert wire first through the end of the conduit and through your drilled hole. The bolt should be large enough to not pull through your drilled hole. This will secure light fixture to the conduit.

 

Lastly, set the height of the fixture by manipulating the length of the wire and then twist upon itself for final installation.

Edited by John
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I built these way before I knew about WAMAS or I would have already made step by step instructions, but since it may benefit you I'll go ahead and do it now!

 

Materials needed:

metal electrical conduit

metal electrical conduit bender

2 conduit brackets for each support

scrap craft board

picture frame wire

few bolts

screws

Drill/screw driver

 

Bend your electrical conduit to make your 90 degree using the conduit bender tool. Fortunately, there is a lot of construction on the street so the electrician let me use his. I really didn't want to make the ~$50 investment for a tool I would use this one time. Make sure to mark your conduit pieces to ensure the bends are even.

 

Next, take your new "L" supports and scrap craft board to the back of your stand to determine the height of your supports. The scrap board will be screwed into your stand and the conduit will sit on the ledge of the craft board. It's okay to go taller because you will use your picture frame wire to adjust final height of the fixture.

 

Once craft board is screwed into your stand, take each "L" support and fasten them to the stand using your conduit brakets, one at the bottom slightly above the scrap board and one at the top of your stand. This ensures the conduit will not bend. Your downforce is supported by the board, and your lateral force is supported by the brackets.

 

Once each "L" bracket is installed, you need to determine where on the "L" bracket your want to suspend your light (i.e. center of the tank). NOTE: This will depend on your fixture, but mine has two holes drilled into the top/center of the fixture.

 

Once you're centered, take the condit out and drill a small hole into the conduit. Next, take your picture frame wire and wrap around a bolt. Insert wire first through the end of the conduit and through your drilled hole. The bolt should be large enough to not pull through your drilled hole. This will secure light fixture to the conduit.

 

Lastly, set the height of the fixture by manipulating the length of the wire and then twist upon itself for final installation.

 

Wow thanks for the info and pic John! looks great! Well i cant move my stand anymore and there is about 5-6 inches i can work with... any suggestions of how i can make it work?

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Use some sort of self-tapping hex head screw instead normal screw...then you can use a rachet to do all the work on the back of the stand.

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Use some sort of self-tapping hex head screw instead normal screw...then you can use a rachet to do all the work on the back of the stand.

 

 

Hmmm ok ill have to look into that and figure something out... thanks again John!

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Water has been running for about 4 days now and parameters are...

 

ALK 11

CAL 450

MAG 1250

PH 8.39

 

I think ALK maybe too high and PH should be lowered? What you guys think?

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Water has been running for about 4 days now and parameters are...

 

ALK 11

CAL 450

MAG 1250

PH 8.39

 

I think ALK maybe too high and PH should be lowered? What you guys think?

I think the ph is good. As for the alk, it's naturally low in my tank for some reason but I've heard that high alkalinity is good.

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I think the ph is good. As for the alk, it's naturally low in my tank for some reason but I've heard that high alkalinity is good.

 

 

Same here i heard high ALK is good but then i heard low like 9 or so is good too... i guess as long as theres no drastic ALK swings then it should be ok...

 

The tank i have up and running now is about 9.4 or so. I have a hard time keeping it high...

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_MG_0122.jpg

Custom top-off tank 16"x16"x30" about 33 gallons made by NAGA. Thanks Jeff! This tank is awesome! :)

 

_MG_0112.jpg

So i purchased this rock from BRS and asked if they can get the largest pieces if possible and so i got what i asked for... haha this flat rock is HUGE! Now thats great customer service :) . I just wish my tank is big enough to put the whole thing in there... now i know where to go to get some rock :)

 

_MG_0183.jpg

So finally... heres the aquascape! It might get changed a little once the corals are in though. I wanted to have as much space on the bottom as possible. Didnt want to put the corals too high either since the light is a little low.

 

20k radiums are awesome! Right now lights on are 2 20k radiums and 4 t-5 03 actinics. Pretty blue...

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Looking good. Why the flat rock on the right side?

 

Thank you :)

 

I didnt want to make the rock work up too high since the lights are pretty low and didnt want to burn the corals. Plus the flat rock will make it easier on me to place some frags since im going to try to fill the bottom with chalices and favias :)

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One thing you might want to think about is that rock formation that is touching the glass on the left side. On the right, you left some space between the rock and the wall, just thinking if you leave the rock against the glass, then you will not be able to scrape the left side viewing pane completely. I have a coral in my tank that is too close to the side and i can not move it so that part of the glass doesn't get cleaned. Bothers me every time i scrape the tank... just something to think about...

 

_MG_0183.jpg

Edited by epleeds
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One thing you might want to think about is that rock formation that is touching the glass on the left side. On the right, you left some space between the rock and the wall, just thinking if you leave the rock against the glass, then you will not be able to scrape the left side viewing pane completely. I have a coral in my tank that is too close to the side and i can not move it so that part of the glass doesn't get cleaned. Bothers me every time i scrape the tank... just something to think about...

 

_MG_0183.jpg

 

 

Thank you for pointing that out :)

 

I did think about that before i set up the rocks, the left side on near another wall and some equipment so i will not need to scrape that side also i need to be able to build up the rock higher. On the right its where some of the viewing is done since its sort of in a walk way so anyone can come by to see it so the scraping will be done on right side only. Also didnt want rocks up too high on the right.

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  • 1 month later...

Havent updated this in a while so heres some pics :)

 

 

_MG_0855.jpg

FINALLY installed my auto top offs and they are working great! Well i think so since im not around when they are pumping at night.

 

_MG_0857.jpg

Tube holder, very convenient :)

 

_MG_0862.jpg

Packed with corals and its not even half of what i have to pack in there :( i still have some room... i guess... haha

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_MG_0862.jpg

Packed with corals and its not even half of what i have to pack in there :( i still have some room... i guess... haha

 

Not even half packed??? ;)

 

Set ups looking good, man!!!

 

Where did you pick up the dosing pump Tube Holder?

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