Upgrading Tanks

[eck_john]

I'm just about to go from a 75 gallon coral and fish tank to a 180 gallon coral and fish tank. I'm looking for advice on what the easiest way to make the move is. I don't make my own water and was hoping to avoid having to buy 180 gallons of water at one time, mostly because I don't have anything to carry that much water in. My thought right now is to go get water from a store, about 30 gallons per week, doing a water change in the 75 gallon tank and taking the water I'm taking from the 75 gallon tank and putting it in the 180 tank. I'm also figuring then, that I need to buy some cheap canister filter to filter the water that I am putting into the new tank until I have enough water in the 180 to get water into the overflow and start filter with the permanent filter system.

 

Does anyone have any thoughts on this? Am I missing something? Any better way to do this?

 

I'm also going to need some more live rock and sand, so if anyone wants to donate some or is selling some cheap let me know.

 

One last question. Can you over filter a tank? If I buy that temp canister filter, would it be bad to put it in the line with the other filters I will use permanately on the 180 (sump, protein skimmer and UV)?

 

Thanks for any help.

[Brian Ward]

1- If you're setting up a 180 gal tank with fish and coral, you should invest in an RO/DI system. A 10% water change weekly is 20 gal/wk and you'll evaporate 15-20 gallons/wk. So think about how you're going to haul 40 gal/wk home from the LFS. You also won't have any spare water on hand should you have a disaster and need to do an emergency water change. Something to think about.

2- The way you're proposing to do it sounds good. I would definitely put some new saltwater in the 180 and not just water change water.

3- No, you really can't overfilter because many of the dissolved organics cannot be extracted from the water using standard filtration techniques. You will find, however, that a canister filter generates a ton of nitrates and you won't want to use for the long-term. In fact, you'll probably be fine with the sump, a filter sock or other mechanical filtration, skimmer and a UV. I wouldn't bother with a canister filter except maybe as a place for carbon.

[Glenn]

2 - I agree ... anytime I do an upgrade (or a downgrade) I make a partial water change part of the routine. Usually about 50%.

3 - I have a canister that I use periodically for polishing the water. Load it up with fresh carbon and let it run for a few days in each tank. Seems to keep the water looking great and the fish/coral don't care :-)

[Ryan S]

I second the RO/DI unit. Get a nice one from air water ice. The time and money it will save you are great - for filling the new tank, for weekly water changes, for hooking up to a daily auto top off, for having emergency water on hand, you name it.

[Der ABT]

congrats on the upgrade, you should post up some pics of the current 75 and do a build thread (with pics of course we live of pics here)

 

there are a few things i could think of for water,

I third the RO/DI unit no matter what imo. i have a smaller tank and dont know what id do without it.

you may be able to get someone to lend you their RO unit and basically just pay them for filters and a membrane (at this point you might as well go ahead and buy one, many local stores and sponsors sell them or if money is an issue you can always look for a used one (there was one for sale not too long ago).

 

180g will take a little while to make and i think it would be much easier to get a RO unit (borrow or buy) to fill the tank that way rather then draggin in 180g, although its like a free gym membership. and as said above not to mention water change and evap.

 

I would probably keep the 75 running if you already have corals and the ability to do so, that way you can get the new tank to cycle and not worry about stressing things. I know alot of people use a sponge filter to get some good bacteria from the current tank and transfer it into the new tank, ive also hear that things like MB7 and the probidio line of bacteria can help speed up the cycling process.

 

sent pm on live rock & cannister.

Edited February 3, 2010 by Der ABT

[Coral Hind]

This is what I would do. I would get the RO unit as Brian suggested and everyone agreed with. Check prices with our vendors. It will pay for itself compared to you hauling water from a local store.

 

Once you get the RO unit up and running I would fill the tank with RO water until it is almost full then mix in the salt. Mix it with power heads and place a heater in there. Once you get the SG and temp where you want it, you could move over the rock and any needed water from your 75 until the sump fills and the system is running. I would then acclimate the fish/corals and place them in the new tank.

 

Where are you located? You may want to update your profile.

[Jon Lazar]

What sort of corals are you keeping, and what do you intend to keep? Many folks here keep a lot of sps corals and so they only use RO/DI water. If your aquarium budget supports buying an RO/DI unit, that's by far the best way to go. If you only have a few hardy corals, like mushrooms, zoanthids, and leathers, you might be ok with dechlorinated tap water.

[eck_john]

Thank you all for the responses. Looks like everyones in agreement about the RO/DI.

In answer to the questions that were asked:

 

--I live in Fairfax, right by George Mason Univ. I'll try and update my profile

--My corals are some mushrooms, a torch, a brain, a bubble coral, a large leather, an elegance coral, and some other assorted sps. I also have a clam and a few flame scallops.

 

I just started the hobby about 1.5 years ago, so I'm trying to learn as I go. The system I run now is as basic as it comes. Just a bio wheel filter, protein skimmer and UV. All of which hang off the back. Its simple but, its worked well. I've basically had no problems with pests and the filters have kept the water quality fairly constant and good.

 

One last question, because I've been using water from my lfs, I've only really been adding Calcium and Alkaline to the tank. With RO/DI water do I need to add more nutrients to the tank?

 

John

[Coral Hind]

If you were getting water from the LFS then it was probably RO water too, just like what you plan to make at home. As for what you need to add, you would have to test the tank to tell you that. Magensium, Alk and Calcium are important ones to test for IMO.

Edited February 3, 2010 by Coral Hind

[Brian Ward]

The salt mix has most of the nutrients you need. So you'll just need to mix the saltwater and then dose Alk & Calcium and possibly Mg as you have been.