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(edited)

I'm in the process of upgrading from power compacts to metal halides on my 75g. I have two 250w retro-fit kits, but I don't have any VHO or T5 actinic bulbs. Do I need the VHO or T5s if I use 20000k metal halide bulbs? Please feel free to give any useful advice.

Edited by splitred
(edited)
I'm in the process of upgrading from power compacts to metal halides on my 75g. I have two 250w retro-fit kits, but I don't have any VHO or T5 actinic bulbs. Do I need the VHO or T5 if I use 20000k metal halide bulbs? Please feel free to give an useful advice.

 

Many people supplement with PC, VHO, or T5 to create a dawn and dusk effect. It also gives the corals some light to "warm up" before the bright halides come on. It also allows you to have a longer photoperiod each day for less cost than running the halides for the same length of time. For example, many people will run their supplements anywhere from 8-14 hours a day, and then run their halides for 6-10 hours a day. If you straight up ran the halides for 8-14 hours a day, your electric bill would be a bit higher. Technically though, you don't need any supplements for halides. If you're going to run 20k halides and don't care about the dawn/dusk period, then I'd say you could skip them. Personally, I don't like 20k halides because the tank is too blue. I like running 14k halides with actinic supplements, that gives the best looking tank for my eyes. The growth of the 14k bulbs is better than the 20k growth; and the supplements make the colors pop just as good as the 20k bulbs would.

Edited by Ryan S
(edited)

I used to run just radiums on my other tank with no supplements. I now run radiums with t5s. I have tried different T5's with Radiums. If I were you, I would skip the T5 and run just radiums. The only compromises are growth and the sunrise/sunset effect and it may be initially too blue but you will grow to love it..

 

Thats my opinion.

Edited by reefhunter
Many people supplement with PC, VHO, or T5 to create a dawn and dusk effect. It also gives the corals some light to "warm up" before the bright halides come on. It also allows you to have a longer photoperiod each day for less cost than running the halides for the same length of time. For example, many people will run their supplements anywhere from 8-14 hours a day, and then run their halides for 6-10 hours a day. If you straight up ran the halides for 8-14 hours a day, your electric bill would be a bit higher. Technically though, you don't need any supplements for halides. If you're going to run 20k halides and don't care about the dawn/dusk period, then I'd say you could skip them. Personally, I don't like 20k halides because the tank is too blue. I like running 14k halides with actinic supplements, that gives the best looking tank for my eyes. The growth of the 14k bulbs is better than the 20k growth; and the supplements make the colors pop just as good as the 20k bulbs would.

 

 

+1

the longer lighting schedule is probably the biggest benefit. I have 20k XM bulbs that I run from 4-10 every evening. But my T5s I run from 1-11. running the halides for 10 hrs every day would use a ton more electricity, both from the bulbs and from cooling, it would put a lot more heat out, and the bulbs would require replacement much quicker. If you only want light on your tank for 6-8 hrs/day then you can go with just halides - or if you have deep pockets and don't mind the extra expense. I like having the actinics only and having light on in the tank for 10 hrs/day with only 6 hrs of intense halide light.

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I dont know why but i guess i am one of the lucky ones. I dont have a chiller on my tank and my temp does not get above 80. I have my lights around 8" above the water line in the display. I am running the MH for 10 hours and the T-5's for 11 to 11 1/2 hours a day. My electric bill runs $320 a month.

Edited by lhcorals

I used to run 20kand 10k MH only and IME, others who supplement with heavy blues (VHO, T5) have better coral colors. Not just appearance under lighting, but actual pigments.

-R

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