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Lowering High PH in Manassas, VA water help


queloque

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What has been done to lower 8.8 PH which is what my Manassas water reads even after RO filtration?

 

 

Thanks

 

 

I dont think your test kit is being very accurate. Usually the water authorities try to get PH around 7 to 7.5 i am pretty sure. How old is your test kit?

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I dont think your test kit is being very accurate. Usually the water authorities try to get PH around 7 to 7.5 i am pretty sure. How old is your test kit?

 

I bought it about 2 or 3 months ago at Wally's.

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API Saltwater master test kit

 

Not saying anything bad but i really dont like that brand. Never got same test results from same sample. Just my .02

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What brand do you guys recommend.

 

I have three test kits. Two from the API.

 

I just tested with the other API tester and it reads 8.2

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(edited)

Forget it. It's not a bad test kit. It's a bad test approach. pH of RO/DI water varies wildly because of the relative lack of ions present to buffer it. You really can't trust the reading that you're getting when using test kits or pH probes in RO/DI water. Test your saltwater after it's been mixed and has aged a day or two so that it's CO2 content equalizes with the air.

 

Interested in a more technical discussion? Read this: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.php

 

From the article (by Randy Holmes-Farley):

"The pH of highly purified water is not accurately measured by test kits, or by pH meters. There are several different reasons for this, including the fact that highly purified water has very little buffering capacity, so its pH is easily changed. Even the acidity or basicity of a pH test kit’s indicator dye is enough to alter pure water’s measured pH. As for pH meters, the probes themselves do not function well in the very low ionic strength of pure freshwater, and trace impurities on them can swing the pH around quite a bit. "

Edited by Origami2547
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Whoa! I didn't know that. Thank you Tom!!

I always check the pH of the new salt water before I do a water change. I make sure I match salinity, temp and pH. Well, salinity I tend to make it a bit higher on the new saltwater to compensate for some of the salt lost due to salt creep and skimming. I never tried checking the RODI for pH and I am glad queloque asked, I would freak out too ;) if I find those values.

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(edited)
Forget it. It's not a bad test kit. It's a bad test approach. pH of RO/DI water varies wildly because of the relative lack of ions present to buffer it. You really can't trust the reading that you're getting when using test kits or pH probes in RO/DI water. Test your saltwater after it's been mixed and has aged a day or two so that it's CO2 content equalizes with the air.

 

Interested in a more technical discussion? Read this: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-05/rhf/index.php

 

From the article (by Randy Holmes-Farley):

"The pH of highly purified water is not accurately measured by test kits, or by pH meters. There are several different reasons for this, including the fact that highly purified water has very little buffering capacity, so its pH is easily changed. Even the acidity or basicity of a pH test kit’s indicator dye is enough to alter pure water’s measured pH. As for pH meters, the probes themselves do not function well in the very low ionic strength of pure freshwater, and trace impurities on them can swing the pH around quite a bit. "

 

 

But I tested the water in my tank as well and get the same reading of 8.8 except from the third test kit that gave me an 8.2 reading.

Edited by queloque
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But I tested the water in my tank as well and get the same reading of 8.8 except from the third test kit that gave me an 8.2 reading.

 

That's a different problem, then. In your original post, you described your RO water as testing to a high pH. You really can't rely on such tests to measure pH of highly purified water.

 

I use a pH probe to measure pH. (I keep one in the sump, one in my calcium reactor, and a portable probe on hand as well.) It's important to keep a probe calibrated, though if you are to trust the measurements you're getting. Calibration fluids are available to help in doing that. When a probe can no longer hold calibration, it's time to try rejuvenating it or, if that's unsuccessful, replacing it.

 

If you're tank's looking healthy, I'd be more inclined to believe the 8.2 measurement than the 8.8, but getting a reliable data point seems to be in order. What are your other tank parameters? Calcium & alkalinty, for example. How old are the test kits that you're using? (Do they have a date code or expiration date on the box?)

 

If you bring me a cup of your water, I can give you a measurement if you'd like. I see that James offered the same service.

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I remember someone from WAMAS back when I first joined advising me to take pH reading from the tank and not from the RO/DI water. I think it might have been YBeNormal.

 

Queloque, you have both Tom and I who can help you test the pH on your water.

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(edited)
I remember someone from WAMAS back when I first joined advising me to take pH reading from the tank and not from the RO/DI water. I think it might have been YBeNormal.

 

Queloque, you have both Tom and I who can help you test the pH on your water.

 

 

Well the initial test were from the tank that gave me the high reading. So I was curious and decided to test my ph level from the filter so I tested that too and got the same reading. I should have been more clear in the initial post.

 

@jnguyen4007 - Yeah, I'll stay local and stop by your place.

 

But in the meantime what is the most reliable off the shelf brand?

 

 

@Origami2547 - I don't know the numbers off the top of my head but my paremeters were what was recommended based on the testing kit for Calcium and Alk. I didn't see any dates on the testing kits. I'll look again. I have a shipment of The 2 part kit coming in from Bulk Reef Supply today. So I will be testing again after work.

 

 

Is a PH probe more reliable than the little kits in the box?

Edited by queloque
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Is a PH probe more reliable than the little kits in the box?

 

If you take care of it and calibrate it from time to time with a decent standard, yes. Especially compared to kits that use color charts where so much can be subject to lighting, reading technique, interpretation, etc. Kits that use titration and a sharp color change are more reliable than kits that use color charts because the endpoint is more clearly recognized. Still, though, all titration kits are not the same and, therefore, don't give you the same reading. Different manufacturers use different chemistries resulting in different endpoints. This can lead to different readings (close, but different).

 

There's a really good article here on pH: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2007-05/rhf/index.php Scroll a little more than a third of the way down to the section titled, "How is pH Measured," and read through it. It answers your question directly.

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