Plumbing for Worry Warts

[MOT]

Hey guys, It seems to me like plumbing a drain and a return using the standard AGA megaflow kit is easy for all of the people in this club that post their tank builds. I guess you have to screw your bulkheads into place and connect some tubing, make sure that you place a ball valve somewhere on your return line, and thats it. However I am really scared to do it myself. Does anyone have any advice on the matter? or no of any really thorough instructions i could use. I really don't want to mess this up and end up with a ton of water on the floor. Thanks for any and all advise and criticism for being a wimp.

[Kevin Garrison]

Plumbing is not hard, the most important thing I can say is do not try to over tighten the bulk heads... I made that mistake once. if you need a hand, I'm sure one of us would be willing to come over and lend a hand.

[jnguyen4007]

Plumbing is not hard, the most important thing I can say is do not try to over tighten the bulk heads... I made that mistake once. if you need a hand, I'm sure one of us would be willing to come over and lend a hand.

 

I don't know... Someone like me with 2 left hands find the plumbing part pretty unnerving too. especially when it comes to cutting the pvc pipes and figuring what part I need and what goes where. if it weren't for YBeNormal to help me, my tank would have never gotten off the ground.

[jason the filter freak]

make sure you glue properly.

 

check out this thread for some step by step how tos and tips

http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?show...&hl=charity

[zygote2k]

Hey guys, It seems to me like plumbing a drain and a return using the standard AGA megaflow kit is easy for all of the people in this club that post their tank builds. I guess you have to screw your bulkheads into place and connect some tubing, make sure that you place a ball valve somewhere on your return line, and thats it. However I am really scared to do it myself. Does anyone have any advice on the matter? or no of any really thorough instructions i could use. I really don't want to mess this up and end up with a ton of water on the floor. Thanks for any and all advise and criticism for being a wimp.

 

Maybe you should get a cat.

[Kevin Garrison]

I don't know... Someone like me with 2 left hands find the plumbing part pretty unnerving too. especially when it comes to cutting the pvc pipes and figuring what part I need and what goes where. if it weren't for YBeNormal to help me, my tank would have never gotten off the ground.

 

James,

 

If ya need to do plumbing, I'm sure you could just call me or Bob and we'd be there to give you a hand. I had to replumb the majority of a 90 yr old house, ain't nothing but a thing. Oh... and I'de never done plumbing before, nor electrical, none of it. Being a home owner was an enlightening experience.

 

Kevin

[Rascal]

I guess you have to screw your bulkheads into place and connect some tubing, make sure that you place a ball valve somewhere on your return line, and thats it.

 

Basically, yes. While there is a lot that can be be said about the pros and cons of various plumbing options, here's a simple step-by-step that will get you up and running:

 

To screw your bulkheads in place, you want the rubber washer on the inside and the nut on the outside. It is the compression of the washer between the bulkhead and the glass which creates the seal. It should be a little more than hand tight if possible, but don't go overboard. If it drips a little you can always tighten it a bit more later on, but if you make a mistake in the other direction it can be harder to fix.

 

The inside of the part of the bulkhead that is now sticking outside the tank is probably threaded. If not post back here and let me know. I think AGA uses 3/4 " returns and 1 " drains. These numbers refer to the inside diameter of the pipe used. The actual holes will be larger. The importance for you is that you know what type of tubing and fittings to buy. I think you will need one 1" Male Hose barb adapter, and one 3/4" male hose barb adapter to start. You can get these at Lowes (not most HDs) but so you know what you are looking for see here: http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/75...s-MNPT-x-Insert. If you are still using Eheim 1260s for the returns they should be 3/4" output also, so all you need to do is screw on 3/4" threaded ball valve (like this: http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/79...my-Ball-Valves) and then another 3/4" male hose barb adapter, then connect the tubing and you will be all set. An easy option is the black corrugated tubing usually found in the pond section. It seals really well on the hose barb fittings (better than vinyl tubing IME) and is fairly resistant to crimping.

 

It can and does get a lot more complicated than that, but for your purposes right now I don't think it needs to. To get a good seal with threaded fittings, you can use teflon tape (found in the plumbing section), or just put a little bit of aquarium silicone on your finger and smear it around the threads before screwing them in place.

 

One last thing -- about the water on the floor. Generally speaking even the most egregious plumbing screw ups will only result in an amount of water equal to the contents of your sump spilling on to the floor. The exception to this is to make the mistake of placing the outlet of your return line at the bottom of your tank. Remember that the return line will turn into a reverse siphon as soon as power is cut to the pumps, so the water level will drop to the level of the outlet(s) on the return line(s). Keep these lines no more than an inch or two below the surface of your water and you will sleep well at night.

 

If you need any help, shoot me a PM. I live in Annandale and may be able to stop by sometime on the way home from work or on the weekend.

[MOT]

Thanks for the mostly encouragement. I'm sure I can do this. if i make a mess than at least I tried. Another member contacted me and said he might be able to come over and help out. I'll try and take pics.

[MOT]

HAHAHA! I was actually kinda pissed when I first read this? I take a lot of pride in my aquarium knowledge, just not my plumbing knowledge. Some of my friends call me fish tank tom They also joke that I am like an old man being so into aquariums only being 24. They said that spending all this money on my new 156g is like my midlife crisis corvette. maybe you should start cat maintenance company with that kind of advice kidding. I did say i was open to criticism for being wimp or did i say *****? hahaha

 

Maybe you should get a cat.

[MOT]

Basically, yes. While there is a lot that can be be said about the pros and cons of various plumbing options, here's a simple step-by-step that will get you up and running:

 

To screw your bulkheads in place, you want the rubber washer on the inside and the nut on the outside. It is the compression of the washer between the bulkhead and the glass which creates the seal. It should be a little more than hand tight if possible, but don't go overboard. If it drips a little you can always tighten it a bit more later on, but if you make a mistake in the other direction it can be harder to fix.

 

The inside of the part of the bulkhead that is now sticking outside the tank is probably threaded. If not post back here and let me know. I think AGA uses 3/4 " returns and 1 " drains. These numbers refer to the inside diameter of the pipe used. The actual holes will be larger. The importance for you is that you know what type of tubing and fittings to buy. I think you will need one 1" Male Hose barb adapter, and one 3/4" male hose barb adapter to start. You can get these at Lowes (not most HDs) but so you know what you are looking for see here: http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/75...s-MNPT-x-Insert. If you are still using Eheim 1260s for the returns they should be 3/4" output also, so all you need to do is screw on 3/4" threaded ball valve (like this: http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/79...my-Ball-Valves) and then another 3/4" male hose barb adapter, then connect the tubing and you will be all set. An easy option is the black corrugated tubing usually found in the pond section. It seals really well on the hose barb fittings (better than vinyl tubing IME) and is fairly resistant to crimping.

 

It can and does get a lot more complicated than that, but for your purposes right now I don't think it needs to. To get a good seal with threaded fittings, you can use teflon tape (found in the plumbing section), or just put a little bit of aquarium silicone on your finger and smear it around the threads before screwing them in place.

 

One last thing -- about the water on the floor. Generally speaking even the most egregious plumbing screw ups will only result in an amount of water equal to the contents of your sump spilling on to the floor. The exception to this is to make the mistake of placing the outlet of your return line at the bottom of your tank. Remember that the return line will turn into a reverse siphon as soon as power is cut to the pumps, so the water level will drop to the level of the outlet(s) on the return line(s). Keep these lines no more than an inch or two below the surface of your water and you will sleep well at night.

 

If you need any help, shoot me a PM. I live in Annandale and may be able to stop by sometime on the way home from work or on the weekend.

The part of my bulkheads that will stick into my stand actually already have barbed endings. So I guess I just need to buy some flexible tubing to fit onto the barbs. THe manual that came with the overflow kits has the correct diameter tubing. Do you think I should try to clamp those tubes onto the barb? I am especially wary on the returns. 500 gph I think might cause those tubes to come off the barbs? Any thoughts? Also I was impressed you remembered that I was planning to use eheims. Did you end up using eheims yourself? How did they work for you? Thank you so much for your help. -Tom

 

Basically, yes. While there is a lot that can be be said about the pros and cons of various plumbing options, here's a simple step-by-step that will get you up and running:

 

To screw your bulkheads in place, you want the rubber washer on the inside and the nut on the outside. It is the compression of the washer between the bulkhead and the glass which creates the seal. It should be a little more than hand tight if possible, but don't go overboard. If it drips a little you can always tighten it a bit more later on, but if you make a mistake in the other direction it can be harder to fix.

 

The inside of the part of the bulkhead that is now sticking outside the tank is probably threaded. If not post back here and let me know. I think AGA uses 3/4 " returns and 1 " drains. These numbers refer to the inside diameter of the pipe used. The actual holes will be larger. The importance for you is that you know what type of tubing and fittings to buy. I think you will need one 1" Male Hose barb adapter, and one 3/4" male hose barb adapter to start. You can get these at Lowes (not most HDs) but so you know what you are looking for see here: http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/75...s-MNPT-x-Insert. If you are still using Eheim 1260s for the returns they should be 3/4" output also, so all you need to do is screw on 3/4" threaded ball valve (like this: http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategories/79...my-Ball-Valves) and then another 3/4" male hose barb adapter, then connect the tubing and you will be all set. An easy option is the black corrugated tubing usually found in the pond section. It seals really well on the hose barb fittings (better than vinyl tubing IME) and is fairly resistant to crimping.

 

It can and does get a lot more complicated than that, but for your purposes right now I don't think it needs to. To get a good seal with threaded fittings, you can use teflon tape (found in the plumbing section), or just put a little bit of aquarium silicone on your finger and smear it around the threads before screwing them in place.

 

One last thing -- about the water on the floor. Generally speaking even the most egregious plumbing screw ups will only result in an amount of water equal to the contents of your sump spilling on to the floor. The exception to this is to make the mistake of placing the outlet of your return line at the bottom of your tank. Remember that the return line will turn into a reverse siphon as soon as power is cut to the pumps, so the water level will drop to the level of the outlet(s) on the return line(s). Keep these lines no more than an inch or two below the surface of your water and you will sleep well at night.

 

If you need any help, shoot me a PM. I live in Annandale and may be able to stop by sometime on the way home from work or on the weekend.

The part of my bulkheads that will stick into my stand actually already have barbed endings. So I guess I just need to buy some flexible tubing to fit onto the barbs. THe manual that came with the overflow kits has the correct diameter tubing. Do you think I should try to clamp those tubes onto the barb? I am especially wary on the returns. 500 gph I think might cause those tubes to come off the barbs? Any thoughts? Also I was impressed you remembered that I was planning to use eheims. Did you end up using eheims yourself? How did they work for you? Thank you so much for your help. -Tom

[dschflier]

If you are ever in the old town area and want some ideas and advice you are welcome to come over. I generally dont have the time to get out, but I have learnt so much over the years from going over other members and picking their brains about whatever it is I was trying to learn.

 

I am currently in the process of changing pumps for my system and re-plumbing my entire system so although I am not a plumber I feel pretty comfortable with aquarium plumbing.

[zygote2k]

Make sure to use a hose clamp on barbed fittings.

[flowerseller]

Make sure to use a hose clamp on barbed fittings.

True, you don't want a pesky cat pulling it off.