Salinity and UV questions

[albatross666]

Hi

 

I have an issue with green hair algae. A auto-feeder fell into the tank and all the food dispersed into the tank. That was about a month ago, and I cleaned and did a lot of water changes.

 

A lot of my algae is gone, but there is still a lot left.

 

I have a new Coralife UV sitting that I am thinking of using. Its a 9 watt and the tank is 55 gallons. Every time i clean the algae, there are a lot of floating pieces that get suspended in the water.

 

Also, my top-off is not working. So my water levels are up and down, and affects the skimmer. I have to adjust daily. But within a week, my salinity rises a lot.

 

First question: Should I use the UV? Is it OK to take out coral and rock into a bucket and scrub the algae off with a toothbrush?

 

Second question: Are the higher salt levels bad? Do they contribute to the algae problem?

 

Thanks!

[jnguyen4007]

From what I recently read, the best way to get rid of the green hair algae is: remove what you can by hand, do your water change regularly, reduce the amount of nutrients, and give it time.

 

If you replace the amount of water evaporation with the same amount of RODI water, then there should not be a rise in salinity. The only way for your salinity to continue to rise over time is if you been adding salt water to replace the water loss from evaporation or if your refractometer calibration is off. Assuming that your water level is where it should be and that your refractometer is calibrated correctly and it still shows your tank's water salinity high, take some of that water out of your tank, and replace it with more fresh rodi water than what you take out. I'd suggest continue to do that gradually and slowly so your livestock can get adjusted until you can reduce the salinity down to the normal range again around 1.025.

 

As for whether or not you should use UV. I use it and so does a lot of people. Make sure the bulb is good and clean.

[albatross666]

I bought an extra UV bulb when I got the UV to save shipping costs, and I have only used the UV for a week max, so I am covered on the bulbs.

 

Do you suggest getting those phosphate pads? I have a kent phosphate reactor and media, but cut the o ring when I was twisting on the lid and I can;t find a store selling the o ring. I used this when I first setup my tank.

[tygger]

You can take the coral and rock out of water, but I would only scrub the rock and use your old saltwater from a water change to rinse.

 

What do you define as "higher" salt levels?

[albatross666]

I have one of those floating tube hydrometers and very often see the salinity above the green zone, (which i think ends at 1.027) hovering close to 1.03.

 

This typically is after 3-4 days after water change.

 

As for the coral that have algae on them, should I just leave the algae there. I was usng pincers to pull it off, but they algae hold on very tight and very little comes off.

[jamal]

well first i would say get a refractometer so you know if that is your salinity level. that wont affect the algae but it will affect everything else. second when fighting the beast known as gha 0 phosphate is a must. very low nitrates will help. frequent water changes also help. make sure you arent overfeeding. what are your nitrate and phosphate levels?

[albatross666]

well first i would say get a refractometer so you know if that is your salinity level. that wont affect the algae but it will affect everything else. second when fighting the beast known as gha 0 phosphate is a must. very low nitrates will help. frequent water changes also help. make sure you arent overfeeding. what are your nitrate and phosphate levels?

 

My nitrates are very low. I cannot remember the nubmer, but its very pale yellow on the tests, which is good according to the color matching scales. As for phosphates, I have never tested. If anyone runs a Aqua Medic Denitrator and wouldn't mind stepping me through the setup, please contact me! I bought it and it does not fit under my stand, but will keep it to one side to help cure the problem.

 

I do have the phos ban reactor (kent) and used it with the media when I setup the tank. I cut the rubber gasket on it when twisting it on and cannot find a reseller for that gasket! If anyone knows where I can get one, please let me know!

 

I do weekly 10 gallon water changes with Reef crystal salt and add lugols solution and another kent vitamins liquid and liquid calcium.

 

I have cut down feeding to once in 2 days, but will resume daily feeting, my angel has taken to nibbling on my new zoos and my clown (has a small nibble make on one fin).

 

Also, I have noticed that some of the Green hair is turning into Brown hair. Is this a sign that the algae is dying?

 

Thanks for all the advice!

[tbittner]

Like others said, running a phosban reactor or anything like that to remove the phosphates will pretty much eliminate the algae. What are you feeding? And how much? If it's pellets and/or flakes, soak the food in RO/DI water for a while. Discard the water and try to get as much water out of the food as you can. This food is polluted with phosphates but soaking it gets rid of a lot of it.