bk_market March 13, 2008 March 13, 2008 What do you guys usually feed your BTA? Im using this frozen shrimp I bought from Kirkland brand from grocery store. The ingredient is shrimps and salt. Not sure if the salt would do anything bad to the anemone. Also how often do you feed your anemone? everyday? twice or three time a week or once a week? Which is best? Also how much of a portion do you feed?
bprinehart March 13, 2008 March 13, 2008 What do you guys usually feed your BTA? Im using this frozen shrimp I bought from Kirkland brand from grocery store. The ingredient is shrimps and salt. Not sure if the salt would do anything bad to the anemone. Also how often do you feed your anemone? everyday? twice or three time a week or once a week? Which is best? Also how much of a portion do you feed? I would directly feed mine 2-3 times a week, I tried to provide a meaty diet composed of a home brew of PE Mysis, Cyclopeeze, silversides, krill and oyster eggs, and formula one, that I would mix with some zoe/selcon and chop up and freeze into small bars, then break off chunks about the size of it's mouth. Between the direct feeding, and the Maroon taking care of it he tripled in size in 6 months and developed awesome coloration. HTH -Brian
treesprite March 13, 2008 March 13, 2008 I still am trying to figure out why people say they don't have to be fed and the same people say they do have to be fed. I thought they had to be fed a couple times a week. Mine is in a place where I can't possibly reach it to feed it.
flowerseller March 13, 2008 March 13, 2008 I feed my tank really heavy and have about 6-8 big RBTA's in it. I do not feed them directly. In my Afarm, I feed ocassionally. When I do, I buy cheap shrimp or sale fish from Safeway. I cut it into pinky nail size pieces and feed, freezing the rest for later.
SkiCurtis March 13, 2008 March 13, 2008 I directly feed 2 days a week silversides.and then what else floats to them>
rsarvis March 13, 2008 March 13, 2008 I feed when I have the motivation to, which ranges from 0 (usually) to 2 or 3 (rare) times per week. Mine looks much better when being fed consistently; that's how I nursed him back from wasting away (I didn't realize I needed to be feeding him at first). Because I'm not good at doing it consistently, he hasn't grown much since I successfully nursed him back to health. But I'm going to start feeding him regularly, if I can keep it up. A while back I threw some shrimp and bay scallops and some garlic (maybe something else but don't remember) into a blender and froze chunks of that; I also a whlie back cut up some fish I'd bought but didn't eat. I feed him either of those, usually the former, or a clump of mysis. Watch out b/c shrimp and crabs will sometimes steal the food. I saw last week a tank (Niki's) in which an anemone had grown enormously over a year (at least quadrupling in size AND splitting off an anemone equal to the original size). Niki said she'd fed it daily. Her's was a RBTA, I believe. My anemone came bleached, so I guess that means it doesn't have the photosynthetic bacteria or whatever it is that provides the energy that would allow other anemones to get by without being fed. (?) Does anyone know how one can get the color back into an anemone? mine's white as ivory. Looks nice, but I guess it's not healthy...
Sharkb8 March 13, 2008 March 13, 2008 (edited) I feed mine once per week. I usually feed a small sliver of cut up frozen silver sides and maybe a small sliver of Marine Quizine (about 1/5 of the block). I generally fear feeding fish anything from the grocery store. I have a general idea how food is prepared for human consumption and frankly, I don't trust it. I don't think the possible level of toxins in there are a good thing for the limited volume of an aquarium environment. But that's just my own philosphy. From WetWebMedia, By Bob Fenner: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anempt2.htm Underfeed, underfeed, don't feed! Underfeed, underfeed, don't feed! Most losses in captive systems are the result of over-feeding. How many more times do I feel I need to write this? Bunches! Some anemones have been kept for YEARS without any intentional external feeding. Know your stock! Many anemones (especially larger species) are detritivorous (a polite term meaning they eat poop), planktivorous, and largely chemoautotrophic/photosynthesizing species/individuals that hobbyists try to over-stuff with meaty/prepared foods. My bid for largest cause of loss of anemones is the consequences (lack of oxygen, hydrogen and other sulfide production...) from over-feeding. Cut it out! Within normal temperatures and other conditions, most can and do do well on weekly feedings. If you're going on vacation, leave them alone. For almost all varieties kept, an occasional (weekly or so) perfusion (wash?) of live brine shrimp, prepared mash of frozen or dried food, or frappe' (as in with your blender) of "fresh" marine food meant for human consumption (shellfish, shrimp, langouste, not-so-oily fish) with or without supplementation. Temporarily turn off your particulate filters and squirt the food onto their tentacular surface. Some authors suggest the use of beef and other foods unlikely to be encountered in the wild. I do not. Edited March 13, 2008 by Biodork
rsarvis March 13, 2008 March 13, 2008 I guess it also depends how much you're feeding too. One person's once-a-day might be no better or worse than another person's once-a-week depending on what and how much? Another thing, don't anemones regurgitate (or whatever you call it) what they don't digest? I thought I read they can only eat so much and will spit out the rest. Not that that would be enough to cure overfeeding, but seems like it's a natural brake on the problems mentioned in the article. I feed mine once per week. I usually feed a small sliver of cut up frozen silver sides and maybe a small sliver of Marine Quizine (about 1/5 of the block). I generally fear feeding fish anything from the grocery store. I have a general idea how food is prepared for human consumption and frankly, I don't trust it. I don't think the possible level of toxins in there are a good thing for the limited volume of an aquarium environment. But that's just my own philosphy. From WetWebMedia, By Bob Fenner: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/anempt2.htm Underfeed, underfeed, don't feed! Underfeed, underfeed, don't feed! Most losses in captive systems are the result of over-feeding. How many more times do I feel I need to write this? Bunches! Some anemones have been kept for YEARS without any intentional external feeding. Know your stock! Many anemones (especially larger species) are detritivorous (a polite term meaning they eat poop), planktivorous, and largely chemoautotrophic/photosynthesizing species/individuals that hobbyists try to over-stuff with meaty/prepared foods. My bid for largest cause of loss of anemones is the consequences (lack of oxygen, hydrogen and other sulfide production...) from over-feeding. Cut it out! Within normal temperatures and other conditions, most can and do do well on weekly feedings. If you're going on vacation, leave them alone. For almost all varieties kept, an occasional (weekly or so) perfusion (wash?) of live brine shrimp, prepared mash of frozen or dried food, or frappe' (as in with your blender) of "fresh" marine food meant for human consumption (shellfish, shrimp, langouste, not-so-oily fish) with or without supplementation. Temporarily turn off your particulate filters and squirt the food onto their tentacular surface. Some authors suggest the use of beef and other foods unlikely to be encountered in the wild. I do not.
Sharkb8 March 13, 2008 March 13, 2008 I think it really depends on the species. As for BTA, Bob says: http://www.wetwebmedia.com/marine/inverts/...tipanemones.htm Feeding: Iodine, alkalinity, biomineral content... are as important to Anemones as they are to stony, soft corals and other Cnidarians. Again, "Reef" circumstances are required to keep a BTA. Both foods derived from photosynthesis and augmented physical feeding with meaty foods are necessary for this species. If your animal is or becomes bleached to a degree, ancillary feeding will become even more important. I suggest meaty foods, no bigger than the anemones mouth 2
traveller7 March 13, 2008 March 13, 2008 Mine can almost eat basketballs, but they don't get large food. They get what blows by for the clowns, which is ~1oz a day of mysis/brine/etc. They get lancefish when I am not lazy. They get lighting from 150wt MHs. Such a regimen is obviously not inhibiting growth, they don't divide in my tank until they are >12" across the disk. For size reference, the tile is 6"x6" and a top down view shows the anemone ~13" across the top.
treesprite March 14, 2008 March 14, 2008 (edited) When I got my BTA it came with nearly white tentacles, green tips, and it glows a spooky neon green under actinics. I worry mostly about not being able to feed it due to it being to pale - I don't think it's supposed to be that white and am wondering if there's a possibility that it is actually a bleached green BTA. I use a food party concotion to feed the tank which probably benefits the nem IF any is getting to it - I believe small particles do but don't know if it's enough for it. However, I only use it once every couple of days because I am struggling to keep nitrate down. If the very small particles ARE being beneficial to the nem, do people think it would be worth using it daily in light of the vicious struggle to keep nitrate down to no higher than 10? I can't keep it lower than that in spite of using a skimmer (rated for 160g with 95g system), have a fuge, and do a 5 to 10g water change every single week, so I absolutely can not overfeed the tank. Other than the paleness, the nem appears healthy but there's no predicting if that will last - I've had it for a couple or few months. Edited March 14, 2008 by treesprite
traveller7 March 14, 2008 March 14, 2008 Other than the paleness, the nem appears healthy but there's no predicting if that will last - I've had it for a couple or few months. It sounds mildly bleached at a minimum, so it should be feed meaty foods to compensate. Feeding stick with a 1cm x 1cm piece of soft bodied fish on the end would be my plan. Another indicator in this case, bleached anemones tend to hide from the lighting. Maybe check on it after lights out and before lights on, if it grows larger when the lights are off, it may be easier to reach a few tentacles. If it reacts to the 1cm x 1cm piece of fish, it will pull it right in immediately. Best of luck.
treesprite March 14, 2008 March 14, 2008 It sounds mildly bleached at a minimum, so it should be feed meaty foods to compensate. Feeding stick with a 1cm x 1cm piece of soft bodied fish on the end would be my plan. Another indicator in this case, bleached anemones tend to hide from the lighting. Maybe check on it after lights out and before lights on, if it grows larger when the lights are off, it may be easier to reach a few tentacles. If it reacts to the 1cm x 1cm piece of fish, it will pull it right in immediately. Best of luck. Do you have suggestions for what to use for a feeding stick? The nem stays open most of the time, with the male clown being in it almost all of the time (nem is too small for female).
traveller7 March 14, 2008 March 14, 2008 Really long chopsticks, the type they use for cooking. If you are not a fan of sushi, use one long wooden chopstick with a needle stuck in the end. fwiw: clowns have been known to chase anemones into hiding as well. If the tentacles are bent, broken off, twisted harshly, missing, etc., the anemone may need to be nursed back to health in isolation.
treesprite March 14, 2008 March 14, 2008 Really long chopsticks, the type they use for cooking. If you are not a fan of sushi, use one long wooden chopstick with a needle stuck in the end. fwiw: clowns have been known to chase anemones into hiding as well. If the tentacles are bent, broken off, twisted harshly, missing, etc., the anemone may need to be nursed back to health in isolation. the only thing wrong is the whiteness.
bk_market March 14, 2008 Author March 14, 2008 Alright I did something really stupid yesterday and I hope my anemone is okay now Before posting here I feed my RBTA ~7" a big shrimp. I have a 2" big shrimp I bought from Safeway. I cut it in 2 piece one is .5" and other is 1.5" only take off the tail of the shrimp to throw away. I give the anemone the small piece first and it swallow in 1 minute so i thought it was pretty cool. I decide to give it the big chunk to watch it eat. I went to sleep and this morning when I wake up it not looking so good. First my clown who hosting the anemone left it there untouch which is unsual for me because the clown usually always inside the anemone. Second the middle part of the anemone blow up like a bubble and the mouth still have the shrimp inside it. The tentacles are all shrink small around it. I freak out and decide to use a chop stick to pull the big chunk of shrimp out. That was this morning when I do that, now everything seem normal the clown is back to the anemone and it look health again. Hopefully I didnt damage the anemone
edkruzel March 14, 2008 March 14, 2008 Hopefully I didnt damage the anemone Well I guess you proved to yourself that feeding smaller sized pieces are better than larger ones and provided you didn't tear any tissue, your anemone should be fine. Too often we forget that although our specimens are large in mass, the oral disc is the object we need to appropriately choose food pieces for. A person wouldn't want to take a large double cheeseburger and choke it down without chewing, and often when we eat too much we feel sluggish and ill. Now that's a human digestive tract which is much more complex than an anemone. Think of their simple anatomy; a small oral disc being the opening to a small but expandable cavity. And although the cavity is expandable, does not mean that it should be stretched to its limits when fed. The oral disc serves as the mouth and the anus (yes that's gross) therefore when food is taken in it begins to dissolve rapidly and is absorbed for energy. In a stationary location, when food items are being rapidly digested, they are rapidly rotting as well. Smaller pieces are readily absorbed, but larger items are forming as waste and if very large will take some additional effort for the anemone to spit out causing it to probably get that same feeling we get after overdoing it at Thanksgiving (but without watching football). Another benefit to smaller pieces would be less waste being put back into the water column and a cleaner healthier system. Remember that life in the sea is harsh and the majority of foods come from teems of plankton/zooplankton washing over an anemone during tidal changes mainly in the dusk or dawn hours. Clownfish don't "feed" (the host) in the wild and probably aren't attempting to feed in our tanks (the host) either, simply being gluttonous and trying to store or hide some food for themselves. No matter what our tanks look like or the parameters we have can match the over-all conditions and environments of the sea, I've studied natural environments and how to best duplicate or adjust that for our livestock in enclosed systems. The majority of my studies are with reef fish and predatory species, but most of this is quite relevant. Scott (Traveller) is more versed with captive anemones and I'm sure will add to what he's already commented on above.
traveller7 March 14, 2008 March 14, 2008 What Ed said :>) That was this morning when I do that, now everything seem normal the clown is back to the anemone and it look health again. Hopefully I didnt damage the anemone The anemone's response was predictable. Odds are high it will be fine, but try to stay with 1cm x 1cm chunks in the future. The smaller pieces are better for your anemone, and your tank. If you had seen the anemone 1-2 hours later, it would likely have looked fine, but you would have a 1.5" piece of shrimp rotting in your tank somewhere. Not a good thing for anything in the tank.
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