durso drain pipe noise

[jamal]

i am helping willie setup his tank and i was wondering why his standpipe is so loud while mine was quiet. on my standpipes the water level is over the holes on the side which is what makes it quiet. on his tank the water level is slightly under the holes so it is very loud. is there a way to solve this problem.

[djcerna]

I had a similar problem. I cut the intake pipe to lower the intake and it solved my problem. however, a picture might give a better idea of other causes.

david

[magnetic1]

Could return flow also have something to do with it? (just throwing a guess out there)

[jamal]

i thought that as well. he has a mag 7 pump on a 75 gal so i figured that is a good size

[tygger]

Where's the noise coming from? Is it a loud slurping noise from the overflow (up top) or from the sump (below)?

[davelin315]

Did you reduce the size of the pipe before it exits the overflow? The base of the pipe should come down in size, so for my home built Dursos I always go one size larger with the pipe and then reduce it down to the size of the bulkhead before it exits.

[jamal]

its from the overflow. its the sound of air and water mixing at the drain holes

 

it is factory. i didnt build it. but it is reduced. it goes from 1.5" to 1".

[Larry Grenier]

I've built 2 dorsos and just did my 3rd last night. What I do is get a few feet of the tubing used for connecting ice-makers or RO Units. I drill a hole in the cap at the top just big enough to fit the tubing into. I feed the tubing into the hole until the gurgling sound diminishes and then trim the remaining tubing leaving a few inches for adjustments. I'm no engineer but its worked for me a few times. It sucks air thru the tube which mixes wih the water way below the water line in the durso.

 

HTH

[magnetic1]

I've built 2 dorsos and just did my 3rd last night. What I do is get a few feet of the tubing used for connecting ice-makers or RO Units. I drill a hole in the cap at the top just big enough to fit the tubing into. I feed the tubing into the hole until the gurgling sound diminishes and then trim the remaining tubing leaving a few inches for adjustments. I'm no engineer but its worked for me a few times. It sucks air thru the tube which mixes wih the water way below the water line in the durso.

 

HTH

 

Anyone know where you can buy rigid tubing? That would work better to stick in the standpipe than flexible tubing I think.

[Larry Grenier]

Get a few feet of the tubing used for connecting ice-makers at Home Depot or RO Units tubing at your reef-store or on-line. This stuff is semi-rigid and easy to fit tightly into the right-sized hole. I'm not with my tools but I believe 1/4" hole.

Edited February 27, 2008 by Larry Grenier

[magnetic1]

Get a few feet of the tubing used for connecting ice-makers at Home Depot or RO Units tubing at your reef-store or on-line. This stuff is semi-rigid and easy to fit tightly into the right-sized hole. I'm not with my tools but I believe 1/4" hole.

 

Should be 7/32" I believe.

[jamal]

well willie cut the drain pip but the water level just dropped. the problem continues

[Rascal]

well willie cut the drain pip but the water level just dropped. the problem continues

 

Was afraid of that.

Could you tell us a little more about the type of standpipe this is? Is it a true durso (like this: http://www.dursostandpipes.com/ ; http://www.dursostandpipes.com/PopularModi...2/Default.aspx)?

If so (or even if its more of a stockman style), there are a couple of ways to control the water level in the overflow. First, you could increase the flow from the return pump. This will raise the water level in the overflow until the drain flow increases to match the rate of the return pump. The reason the flow through the drain will increase is due to increased head pressure from the rising water level. A gate valve really helps to dial in the flow from the return if you go this route.

 

The second method is by reducing the drain capacity of the standpipe itself. One way to do this is by changing the size of the air hole in the cap. No hole at all will create a siphon - a bad idea because it will result in a repeating flushing sound. The bigger the air hole --> the less of a siphon --> the slower the flow through the drain. Same principal as above: at some point the water level in the overflow will rise because the flow from the return slightly exceeds the flow through the drain, until the latter catches up due to increased water pressure, and then they will balance. The problem can then become that you get too much of a sucking sound through the air hole and/or too much noise from the air and water mixing at that point. This is when the tubing idea can really help.

 

The other way to control the flow through the drain is with a gate valve on the drain + a secondary unrestricted drain above the water level in the overflow to serve as a back-up ("Herbie" method: http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...hreadid=344892). For most "reef ready" tanks, this will only work if you use both bulkheads in the overflow chamber for this purpose and then route the return over the back rim of the tank.

 

HTH