pH perameters

[FishWife]

I read here: http://www.centralpets.com/animals/fish/sa...ts/swi1663.html

 

that BTAs prefer pH of 8.3-8.4. Same with tridacnia clams. I thought 8.0 was optimal for reef tanks... yes? No?

 

What is your shooting pH number; and what's the reality?

[lanman]

I read here: http://www.centralpets.com/animals/fish/sa...ts/swi1663.html

 

that BTAs prefer pH of 8.3-8.4. Same with tridacnia clams. I thought 8.0 was optimal for reef tanks... yes? No?

 

What is your shooting pH number; and what's the reality?

8.3 is what I've always heard. Mine runs between 8.3 and 8.5 with kalk stirrer.

 

bob

[wreck]

8.3 is what I shoot for also. My tank ph peaks around 8.4 just before lights out, I autodrip Kalk at night to offset ph swing. i think it's time I added a Kalkstirrer, that baby Grey Seas one looks perfect for my 55. a ph monitor makes tracking ph a breeze.

Rick "Wreck"

 

 

8.3 is what I've always heard. Mine runs between 8.3 and 8.5 with kalk stirrer.

 

bob

[jamal]

8.3 is what I shoot for also. My tank ph peaks around 8.4 just before lights out, I autodrip Kalk at night to offset ph swing. i think it's time I added a Kalkstirrer, that baby Grey Seas one looks perfect for my 55. a ph monitor makes tracking ph a breeze.

Rick "Wreck"

 

i agree. i have a kalk stirrer hooked up to a kangaroo pump and my ph is much better now connected to my aquacontroller so no more overdoses

[treesprite]

one more thing to make me thing twice and three times about getting a nem! My ph hangs around 8.2... I haven't been adding anything to the water to boost it because I thought it was within normal range for a reef tank.

Edited November 14, 2007 by treesprite

[txaggies07]

Ive always gone for 8.2-8.4

[dandy7200]

The higher the better. 8.5 is what I shoot for, 8.3-8.4 is reality thought. Corals metabolize calcium faster and easier at higher Ph, just like our bones do.

[YBeNormal]

Stability is more important than a specific value though and keep in mind that PH values are logarithmic. It's much better to have a stable PH of 8.1 or 8.2 than to reach 8.4 or 8.5 but with wild swings over a period of a few hours.

[flowerseller]

My pH fluctuates between 7.9 and 8.3. Occasionally in the same day.

I'm growing and dividing anemones in that water.

I use both a kalk stirrer and run a Ca reactor but have to have a stream, as opposed to a drip, from the effluent.

[traveller7]

BTA's tend to be more tolerant then most hosting anemones, but they do get to decide when they are bugged by water params and when they are not

 

I would worry about an 8.0 value dropping deeper into the 7's overnight, hence tend to target 8.2-8.4 myself.

 

Stability is more important than a specific value though and keep in mind that PH values are logarithmic. It's much better to have a stable PH of 8.1 or 8.2 than to reach 8.4 or 8.5 but with wild swings over a period of a few hours.

Agreed. Even worse, having the kalk drip/calcium doser output right by the anemone.

 

My pH fluctuates between 7.9 and 8.3. Occasionally in the same day.

I'm growing and dividing anemones in that water.

I use both a kalk stirrer and run a Ca reactor but have to have a stream, as opposed to a drip, from the effluent.

Maybe if that skimmer of yours would blow off some CO2 the pH would not drop so low over night :D

[flowerseller]

Maybe if that skimmer of yours would blow off some CO2 the pH would not drop so low over night :D

 

How would I get it to do that?

[traveller7]

How would I get it to do that?

My friend, the comment was a bit of a dig on your clearly effective DIY skimmer, but if we are talking optimization.....

 

First baseline pH of skimmer intake water, then measure pH of skimmer output. This was easy with my manifold and the ETSS800 output; darn near impossible and too much hassle with the Tunzes.

 

To increase O2 vs C02:

 

-Get the skimmer air intake access to the atmosphere. Made a +.5 pH difference on my system when the skimmer intake was under that enclosed 300gal stand vs open air sitting on top of the Remote DSB. Strictly from relocating my skimmer, fresh intake is assumptive, but might be a fun test :>)

 

-Residual CO2 containing effluents (calcium reactor) can be dosed into the skimmer. Have not done this for years, no corals to speak of anymore, but it seemed to minimize the pH valley. Strictly anecdotal evidence on my part, but Chip has new plumbing so it would be a great time to test impacts :>)

 

-Most controversial discussion point, likely for a new thread: pump ozone into the skimmer. Have not done this for quite a few years, but just might on the next system.

 

In my experience, biggest measured pH management gains were actually from:

 

- Running calcium reactor during lights on, Kalk during lights out

- daily prefilter cleaning

 

Is any of the above necessary? Your tank will tell you, my coral gardens are long gone, and most of my critters could care less as long as the variables are stable.

[flowerseller]

My friend, the comment was a bit of a dig on your clearly effective DIY skimmer, but if we are talking optimization.....

 

First baseline pH of skimmer intake water, then measure pH of skimmer output. This was easy with my manifold and the ETSS800 output; darn near impossible and too much hassle with the Tunzes.

 

To increase O2 vs C02:

 

-Get the skimmer air intake access to the atmosphere. Made a +.5 pH difference on my system when the skimmer intake was under that enclosed 300gal stand vs open air sitting on top of the Remote DSB. Strictly from relocating my skimmer, fresh intake is assumptive, but might be a fun test :>)

 

-Residual CO2 containing effluents (calcium reactor) can be dosed into the skimmer. Have not done this for years, no corals to speak of anymore, but it seemed to minimize the pH valley. Strictly anecdotal evidence on my part, but Chip has new plumbing so it would be a great time to test impacts :>)

 

-Most controversial discussion point, likely for a new thread: pump ozone into the skimmer. Have not done this for quite a few years, but just might on the next system.

 

In my experience, biggest measured pH management gains were actually from:

 

- Running calcium reactor during lights on, Kalk during lights out

- daily prefilter cleaning

 

Is any of the above necessary? Your tank will tell you, my coral gardens are long gone, and most of my critters could care less as long as the variables are stable.

 

Sounds like I have a few fun things to try after finishing closing the pond for winter.

(did I beat you to our ponds maintenance we were talking about the other day?)

 

I'm always open to optimizing since it never ends.

I'll run a line out to the laundry from from the skimmer intake and let you know.

 

BTW, the waters pretty cold outside. :D

[traveller7]

Sounds like I have a few fun things to try after finishing closing the pond for winter.

(did I beat you to our ponds maintenance we were talking about the other day?)

 

I'm always open to optimizing since it never ends.

I'll run a line out to the laundry from from the skimmer intake and let you know.

 

BTW, the waters pretty cold outside. :D

Yep, I am slow on the uptake once again, still cutting down the trees in the pond to put on the cover.

 

fwiw: this is a good read related back to 02 topics :>)

 

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2005-08/eb/index.php