jnguyen4007 June 21, 2007 June 21, 2007 I double checked the pumps that I have and it turns out that I have a mag 5 and a mag 12. Mag 5 is rated at 500 gph with pumping height of 2' rated at 415. The Mag 12 is rated 1200 gph with pumping height of 2' rated at 1180. The distance between my 20 gal long sump and 30 gal long tank is at most 2' if that. Which pump should I use, mag 5 or mag 12. I thought of using the mag 5 but I don't know if the flow rate is strong enough. The mag 12 might be too strong? If it is, what do you recommend? Sorry for being such a newbie on this and asking the same questions over. James
jamesbuf June 21, 2007 June 21, 2007 Use the strongest pump that your overflows can handle. If you only have one overflow, which most are rated around 600gph flow, then you have to use the Mag 5. The Mag 12 will pump more water into the tank than can drain, and you'll have an overflow of the main tank on your hands.
Guest JasonD June 21, 2007 June 21, 2007 (edited) I used a larger pump than I needed (an Eheim 1262) or that my overflow can handle. I put a gate valve on the return line to slow down the flow back into the tank. I used a larger pump so that if I ever add other equipment in the future (chiller, etc.) I'll already have the extra pump capacity, I just have to open the valve a little. In my tank, I won't flood the main tank if I run the 1262 wide open. It'll just suck the the sump dry. I guess if you had a large enough sump it could flood the main tank. Edited June 21, 2007 by JasonD
rioreef June 21, 2007 June 21, 2007 Depends on your overflow capability. If your return is too much, put a Tee on it and plumb a portion back into the sump. This way you are not putting back pressure on the return pump. Also consider that a 20g and 30g would at max have 50g of water, with the Mag 12 that is over 23x turnover of your water (alot), not to mention the currents in you main tank will be strong. No extra powerheads or closed loops needed. The Mag 5 should be fine, you can always go for a pump in between. I have a 90g with a 29g sump and have a Mag 12 for my return.
jnguyen4007 June 21, 2007 Author June 21, 2007 Thanks everyone for your input. Now, I don't feel quite so nervous. James
fab June 21, 2007 June 21, 2007 (edited) Be sure to connect the pump into your system with a shutoff valve on the supply side (input side) of the pump and union fittings on each side of the pump, that way you can remove the pump by merely shutting off the water and unscrewing plumbing components. Then if you decide you used the wrong pump, there is no problem to exchange it for the other or even for a new pump later on. The most complete version: Supply pipe, UNION, ball valve, UNION, pump, UNION, output pipe A shorter version just eliminates the first union, hard mounting the ball valve so it can't be removed later without cutting pipe: Supply pipe, UNION, ball valve, UNION, pump, UNION, output pipe If you have space for the complete version, I recommend it over the shorter version. Unions are cheap. Also, you can get ball valves with built-in unions on each end. They are called True Union Ball Valves. True union ball valve: UNION, ball valve, UNION If you prefer gate valves over ball valves then use them instead. fab Edited June 21, 2007 by fab
dandy7200 June 21, 2007 June 21, 2007 James, your overflow will handle 1200gph but I suggest you go with the Mag5 for a 30 gallon tank.
jnguyen4007 June 21, 2007 Author June 21, 2007 (edited) Be sure to connect the pump into your system with a shutoff valve on the supply side (input side) of the pump and union fittings on each side of the pump, that way you can remove the pump by merely shutting off the water and unscrewing plumbing components. Then if you decide you used the wrong pump, there is no problem to exchange it for the other or even for a new pump later on. The most complete version: Supply pipe, UNION, ball valve, UNION, pump, UNION, output pipe A shorter version just eliminates the first union, hard mounting the ball valve so it can't be removed later without cutting pipe: Supply pipe, UNION, ball valve, UNION, pump, UNION, output pipe If you have space for the complete version, I recommend it over the shorter version. Unions are cheap. Also, you can get ball valves with built-in unions on each end. They are called True Union Ball Valves. True union ball valve: UNION, ball valve, UNION If you prefer gate valves over ball valves then use them instead. fab Fab, Sorry for sounding like an ignoramus. All of this stuff is very new to me so please bear with me. I understand the need to have the return pump output connecting to the union and output pipe. On the input side of the pump is where I'm confused on. Wait, it just hits me but I think I got what you're saying. Your description is based on if the return pump is placed outside of the sump and not inside. If I have the return pump inside the sump, then I won't need to have anything connect to the water intake of the pump, is that correct? One last thing, I can pick up all of this plumbing stuff from Home Depot and Lowes? If I bring the pump and overflow gasket with me, the folks there should be able to help me find the parts that fits? James Edited June 21, 2007 by jnguyen4007
YBeNormal June 21, 2007 June 21, 2007 James, Your pump should include a plastic "cage" that fits over the input side. I recommend using that as it prevents larger items (like snails) from being sucked into the impeller. I would install a ball or gate valve (preferred) on the return side of the pump and maybe a "T" fitting capped off in case you need it later. As Fab said, try to use threaded fittings where possible so you can modify things down the road if necessary. I used barb fittings and a short section of rubber tubing between the MAG pump and the tank and placed the pump on a thick sponge. This helps cut down on vibration noises and makes the setup much quieter. You are welcome to come over and take a look at how I plumbed mine. I recommend Lowes for plumbing parts. HD doesn't have quite as large of a selection and the parts are often mixed together making it hard to find what you need. Lay the parts out on the floor as you pick them out so you know you have everything you need.
treesprite June 21, 2007 June 21, 2007 I'm glad you asked about again because in about 2 days I'm going to have to have the same kind of info, so thank you!
Rascal June 21, 2007 June 21, 2007 If you follow Dandy's suggestion and use the Mag 5, you could probably get away with just a true union on the return side of the pump, without a valve or a T. I can't see any reason you would want to dial down the flow on the Mag 5.
dschflier June 21, 2007 June 21, 2007 I am all for more flow but I agree a mag12 is a bit much for a 30gallon tank. Just my thoughts. David
jnguyen4007 June 21, 2007 Author June 21, 2007 Because of budget and not risk sleeping in the garage for the next few months, I'm trying not to spend anymore than I have to. That's why I've been refraining from buying a new pump that is somewhere in between what I have of a mag5 and a mag 12. I wasn't sure if the mag5 return rate was adequate enough and I was even more nervous of what such high return flow rate could do to the 30 gal tank environment. Thanks to everyone's input, the mag5 seems like a more appropriate choice for now. If someone out there has a mag 7 and would like to sell it, please let me know. Bob, I'll need to talk to you about having a cage for the mag5. I've been using a bonded filter pad to keep small particles and such out of the mag5. Will that work as well? All of you folks here have been a great help. Thanks again. James
djcerna June 21, 2007 June 21, 2007 (edited) I have a mag5 on a 65 gal and it works fine without any need for a gate valve. David Edited June 21, 2007 by djcerna
fab June 21, 2007 June 21, 2007 (edited) My apologies, I don't normally think in terms of in-sump pumps. I see how that confused you. You are right ... If I have the return pump inside the sump, then I won't need to have anything connect to the water intake of the pump, is that correct? YES. That is correct. try these links for pictures and prices: http://www.savko.com/portal/plasticvalves.asp http://www.spears.com/prod_brochures/TU2000-2-0605_0605.pdf fab Edited June 21, 2007 by fab
davelin315 June 22, 2007 June 22, 2007 Hey James, come by tomorrow, I think I should be around during the day and evening and I'll show you what they are talking about. Sorry I didn't get a chance to call you back the other day, I was out until around 11 or so for the past few nights.
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