To UV or not to UV?

[RudyCDX1]

I am interested in what our membership is doing around using UV on their tanks. This poll and discussion is ment to educate those of us interested in the Pro's and Con's of the use of UV. For the purpose of this poll Reef and FOWLR options will asked. Please add your comments for or against.

 

Thanks for your participation.

[flowerseller]

I can't imagine why anyone running a marine tank wouldn't want one.

[madmax7774]

Up until yesterday, I was running one 24/7, but I have since come to the conclusion that it is hurting slightly more than it is helping. I have since removed it. In the beginning, While was a novice, it helped me stop algea blooms, but now that I have things well under control it is hurting the Micro-critter population, so I am removing it, and am going to give it a go without it for the next few months. We'll see.

[RudyCDX1]

How many watts vs. gallon ratio were you running?

[jamesbuf]

How many watts vs. gallon ratio were you running?

 

That ratio is important, but I think the flow rate throught the UV unit is much more important. Most of the UV sterilizer will give flow rates that will kill algae but those rates do not allow enough exposure to kill parasites such as ich.

[flowerseller]

I push about 550g through a 40w CurrentUSA UV sterilizer on a 300g system.

It's a single ended, tight fit T5 inside the quartz sleeve. The sleeve/bulb is one of the closest ratios availible.

It does not have a wiper, nor do I want one. I prefer to clean and inspect.

[steveoutlaw]

Is there any benefit to using a UV clarifier VS a UV sterilizer? Say you took an 8w clarifier and ran a low flow rate through it.....would that be beneficial at all?

Edited December 3, 2006 by steveoutlaw

[Coral Hind]

I run a 9 watt Coralife Turbo Twist on my 75 gallon reef tank. The flow is set at about 50 gph for parasites. I installed it after a big ick outbreak when I first set up the tank. It is not an instant ick cure but it helps break the parasites life cycle. I do not run a quarantine tank so this saves my butt. I did noticed a big difference in how clear my water became after installing it. I recommend them.

[madmax7774]

I had a 9 watt UV sterilizer running out of the sump at around 75GPH (estimated) It was great for killing off algea blooms, but it would also kill my copepod poulation. I want to get a dragonette at some point, so I am trying it without it. My system is 1 year old now, so I don't think it needs the UV anymore. It has been a few days now, and I see now immediate effect, but I am watching closely. I also upgraded my protein skimmer from a POS coralife 125 to a Euro-reef RS80. What a difference that made... I upgraded my main return pump from a Sen500 to a mag1000 and added 2 more return lines. My turn over with the old pump was pretty bad, it was around 200gph. on a 100G system , that was bad. Now I am getting close to 800gph and it really is stirring everything up. Once all the particles finally clear out, I will be able to see how clear the water is without the UV.

[RudyCDX1]

Steveoutlaw - I read on RC that the UV clarifier is the same unit as the UV sterilizer at a much higher flow rate. The theory being that lower flow over the bulb equals greater kill rate and thus sterilization.

 

RC has some great reading on this topic. No real "must do" like a skimmer. Good debates on Pro's and Con's.

 

It always comes back to your goals; Clear water = Ozone. Control free floating stage "life forms" like algae and parasites = UV.

[steveoutlaw]

Thanks Rudy - I was going to use the clarifier on my system but don't want to kill pods. I need to read up and see if the clarifier will kill the pods.

[RudyCDX1]

From what I have read both will kill "pods". However, it is only the pods that get drawn through the UV unit. It is unlikely that 100% of your pod population will go through the UV unit.

 

A quick correction on the goals above; Clear water - UV will have a clearing affect on greenish tinted water (algae bacteria), Ozone is targeted at the yellow tint in water.

Edited December 5, 2006 by RudyCDX1

[madmax7774]

ok, it's been a week without the UV sterilizer, and my tank has cleared up nicely due to the addition of a filter condom on the end of overflow drain pipe into my sump. I never realized how much crap one of those would filter out. Anyways, the water is perfectly clear, and there have been no problems whatsoever. I am gonna spring for one of those small bottles of copepods that the LSF store sells for 19$ ans see if that causes a bloom of pods. So far so good.

John

[NightOwl]

Hey John,

Those bottles of pods are a total waste of money IMO. The number they advertise in the bottle and the actual number is never anywhere close to being correct. They actually ship them with less than the number they say and according to two manufactures the pods are supposed to multiply in the bottle. Save your $20 and find someone that has some cheto they can spare and you will get some in there. I brought about three bottles before I realized I was being ripped off. At first I thought my mandarin was eating them that fast, but then I actually tried counting the pods in the bottle using a microscope and ended up calling the people. The two brands I tried were TiggerPods and Ocean Pods.

 

Thanks,

 

Henry

[madmax7774]

Wow, I had no idea, than ks for the heads up. I will defiantely avoid buying one of those bottles now....

[F&Fmgr]

the only to tanks (systems I dont run UV on are my grow out and/or coral only tanks. A must have for systrems more then sparsely stocked with fish.

 

Sean

[Coral Hind]

ok, it's been a week without the UV sterilizer, and my tank has cleared up nicely due to the addition of a filter condom on the end of overflow drain pipe into my sump. I never realized how much crap one of those would filter out. Anyways, the water is perfectly clear, and there have been no problems whatsoever. I am gonna spring for one of those small bottles of copepods that the LSF store sells for 19$ ans see if that causes a bloom of pods. So far so good.

John

 

You turned off your UV to save the pods but I think the filter you installed will end up catching and killing just as many.

[flowerseller]

The UV debate is right up there with DSB vs. BB, halides vs. tubes, skimming vs. no skimming and whether to change or not change water.

 

I can't say how much effect using UV has had on my pod population but I can say I still have plenty as well as little serpents stars and worms.

[madmax7774]

Good point. I think the return pipe condom filter has served it's purpose anyway, as the water is crystal clear, and the sediment/debris flowing around is gone now. I am removing it today.

John

[flowerseller]

One thing I forgot to mention regarding those of us running optimum or elevated KH and or CA levels.

The slime coat that normally collects on the quartz sleeve the bulbs sits in tends to become an opaque calcium based coating and needs to be cleaned periodically to keep the emitted light at it's full potential.

My unit, as an example, uses a 4 pin single ended T5 bulb inside the sleeve. It may be that the extra heat from a 40w T5 vs a standard tube may or may be the reason.

[madmax7774]

ok, I'm not so sure anymore. It's been almost 2 weeks without the UV, and I am starting to get s snowstorm of micro white particles. Even with the filter sock back on, they are all over the place. I can't figure out what it is. i don't think it's algea, and It's not sand. Anyone ever heard of white algea??? I don't think it's copepods, but I'm just not sure. I will try to get some sort of photograph, but it doesn't seem to be sticking to anything....

[Sharkb8]

I think my opinion is pretty well summed up here:

 

http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=9580

 

we had our own little debate on this subject not too long ago.

[flowerseller]

I think my opinion is pretty well summed up here:

http://www.wamas.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=9580

we had our own little debate on this subject not too long ago.

 

I just re read that thread. That was another good informative one.

I still think the wiper is a waste and may actually offer the user a false sense of security.

It will not touch the calcium build up and does not replace a good old fashioned cleaning and inspection.

[davjbeas]

This is a interesting topic for me. I just ordered a unit for my 75 gallon reef. I plan to put it on my return line

from the sump. Im not sure if i should put it before the chiller or after. It probably doesn't make a difference.

I ordered this one

http://www.marinedepot.com/md_viewItem.asp?idproduct=AV2283

but i got it from www.customaquatic.com for $273 with the twist which means you can rotate the body of the unit to have the input or output going in any direction that is better for the install.

I took note about not running it full time in the begining. maybe 5 hours a day a good start?

It seems that the poll is pretty much split down the middle with people using these units and people that don't. I would be happy if it helped my cyano problem which i have in 1 tank that is a satelite on the main sump. It probably will insure that cyano doesnt spread to the 75 gallon display.

 

Good topic!

 

David B.

[HowardofNOVA]

Yes Chip this is a good topic!

Gang you ought to see the piece of silicate/glass like pieces that Chip removed from his UV unit! Too cool!

I have a 15w Aqua Unit with Wiper on my 90g Reef (about 150g with sump and frag tank) and believe this is a must have unit! My tanks have always been Algae free and believe this is the #1 reason!

The unit is T off from my return with a Ball Valve from my Mag18 with a slow flow for Maximum UV Exposure. If I have a loss of Pods you wouldn't know it!

Advantages IMO far outweigh the Negatives!!

 

IMHO as far as MUST HAVE ITEMS for your tank:

#1 SKIMMER

#2 GOOD FLOW PUMPS

#3 GOOD LIGHTING

#4 KALK REACTOR

#5 ENOUGH LR FOR BACTERIA GROWTH

#6 UV

#7 CONTROLLER UNIT

#8 CACIUM REACTOR

#9 ORP UNIT

 

NOTE: The last 4 items are usually very expensive but can take a great tank and make it AWESOME!