Leaking bulkhead fix

[smokythemattman@gmail.com]

New tank had the plumbing done by a LFS that did the tank install. As soon as water enters the overflow immediately the leaking begins from underneath the glass where the what I think is a bulkhead connects to another piece and the glass. I'd truthfully do not much if the drops didn't land on the sump edge and splash everywhere. It seems snug with slip joint pliers, maybe to snug is why it leaks? Can I just silicone inside the overflow chamber around the pipe and on the underneath where it leaks? I know nothing of plumbing and I'd hate to replace the pieces and just have it still leak if the glass isnt flush etc. Any ideas, sub-par picture shows the water drops around the flat gasket looking piece above the threading, it's the pipe connection nearest the camera.

[phlynamjax]

It can be for few reasons

1. It’s not tight enough. 
2. Gasket did not sit correctly

3. Faulty bulkhead

 

 

[DaJMasta]

Especially if the glass is reasonably thick (> 1/4") tightening it a little with pliers is probably fine to do (try not to twist the glass off the rotation axis).  Silicone can be used for a seal (it's not ideal, but it does generally work), you could probably cut the PVC and just replace the bulkhead and the bit going into it, and if it's on the order of a drop every now and then instead of a more continuous seeming leak, it may just seal itself with debris or salt creep.

 

The glass should be very even, if there is any version of this that would be hardest to fix, it would be if something went wrong drilling the tank and there was breakout under the flange of the bulkhead that managed to get out from under the seal - unlikely, but even then possible to fix by drilling for a larger bulkhead and replacing it (with a reducer as needed.)

Edited March 17 by DaJMasta

[smokythemattman@gmail.com]

Thanks guys! Next dumb question, I assume to tighten it there is a piece in the overflow I need to lock in place with a set of pliers while tightening it from the bottom. I assume to remove it would just be reversed. I can't tell if anything is glued in place already or anything. I'm forcing myself to learn some more on the plumbing side instead of just putting a big ass funnel underneath of the drips to direct it into the sump lol (that will be plan D), I think it may be to severe to self seal. As soon as I poured a couple gallons into the overflow it started to leak. The glass is thick there its 1" so I will probably try to tighten it more but not break anything, if that doesn't work probably best it seems to just buy another bulkhead/gasket and replace it vs sili

[Gatortailale]

If you can gently try to tighten the black nut sitting on glass, may be all that is needed, shouldn’t need to hold bulkhead on inside overflow unless it’s really loose and wobbly. You may be able to take a picture of bulkhead inside overflow to see if you can spot o ring between bulkhead and glass on inside overflow 

[Gatortailale]

Hopefully the lfs put a union inline on drain line under tank where leaking. You can also buy a python hose you connect to faucet or use a hose to drain overflow to work on it. Unless you go nuts you shouldn’t harm glass as thick as you describe by trying to tighten nut.

 

[cpeguero]

Also, in case you’re having a tough time getting a grip on the nut, a pair of oil filter pliers works well - just found them in Home Depot this weekend. You do still need to be careful not to over tighten, but can make it easier to grip. 
 

if you end up having to redo the bulkhead, I highly recommend a layer of molykote on the gasket. I put it on every o-ring or gasket now, as it helps it get a good seal. 

[smokythemattman@gmail.com]

Thanks for responses. Seems one side is different than the other and that is likely my source of issues. Went to tighten the inside nut and don't think there is a piece to tighten? Maybe again I'm stupid with plumbing but the other side sure seems more "correct". 

[cpeguero]

There’s nothing thing to tighten on the inside. The nut you see on the outside is what you tighten. Hold on to the threads that stick out u see the tank as you tighten to keep it from rotating, though it likely won’t be an issue as you tighten it. see image below - haven’t always seen a friction washer as in the image, but the rest should give you an idea of how it works. The “body” is what sits inside and sticks out through the hole in the tank. 
 

[DaJMasta]

The PVC is also glued in, so it won't need any holding in place while tightening the nut.

 

Which may actually be a useful question - is there any pressure on the PVC lines?  There's a possibility that if the PVC was pushed into place in a way where it's not quite sitting normally it could put some uneven pressure on the seal and cause it from there.  The solution would be to move one end (probably the sump, but maybe adjusting a union's angle) to relieve the pressure - at least if that was the cause.  Something to check, at least.

[smokythemattman@gmail.com]

I tightened that side as much as possible and it is slightly better but still pretty leaky. The pipe isn't flush cut cut and is able to with maybe handshake strength be pulled out which also doesn't seem right so I will likely try to cut it so it's a better cut. I reached back out to the LFS that did the install but nothing so far other than tighten the nut. The other pipe with that piece to hold it in place inside the overflow is not going anywhere easily. Shouldnt there be a threaded piece on the pipe to connect into the bulkhead body or does the pipe jut sit in there? 

[DaJMasta]

You can get internally threaded bulkheads, but the more common version is slip fittings - just a close smooth fit to the PVC that you'd glue in place.  If it isn't glued, perhaps that could be the problem (but the water would be coming out around the pipe and not around the bulkhead against the tank.)

 

When properly installed, that gives you a rigid connection to the PVC directly, and usually there will be a union somewhere after that so that you have a way to easily remove it for cleaning/servicing and alignment with the rest of the plumbing when first setting it up.  I actually wouldn't be surprised if the internal PVC tower isn't glued into place - it could be, but it's much less critical for this part not to leak, since a leak would just be a very small amount of water going to where the rest of it is supposed to.

[cpeguero]

If the pvc isn’t glued into the bulkhead where it comes out of the tank, I’m surprised. I’ve had the internal riser not glued in, but any connection that is supposed to be watertight should be glued.

i agree that it doesn’t seem like the source, if the water is dripping from where the bulkhead comes through the glass, but I’ve had enough mistakes with things temporarily fit together coming apart that I wouldnt trust any connection that needs to be watertight if it wasn’t glued. 

[Gatortailale]

Looking at your picture here, it does look like the right bulkhead / gasket is overlapping the larger bulkhead/ gasket on the left.  If that is the case it may be preventing a tight seal - if that turns out to be the bulkhead leaking. 

 

[smokythemattman@gmail.com]

Thanks everyone! I've got some glue being delivered tomorrow. I'll likely take the bulkhead off and check the inside of it and the gasket in there as well. I forgot the bottom of this tank isn't glass its PVC so I gave a little more of a tight turn on the nut but still no luck. Not sure why they used one threaded fitting and not another but I may try that approach. Hoping taking apart and putting back together fixes it. Just have to wait for some pieces and parts to do it right so I don't have a big open hole in the overflow haha