Jager

bin is a term that is used to explain this type of scenario manufacture makes 200 electronic items. they should put out X amount of whatever manufacture tests said items and 95 make x amount correctly they are put in a bin labeled for those specs. the 5 that produced y are not discarded or melted down, but if they produce less they are downbinned and put in a bin for Y amount (assuming they meet those amounts) manufactures from computer processors to leds make giant amounts of stuff then the stuff that doesnt test to spec, is tested at lower voltages or slower speeds and then marked and sold as the slower type or less bright. a good easy example is a pc should run at 3000mhz. the manufacturer also sells a 2000 mhz chip/pc. some of the 3000mhz chips only run 2500mhz, so the manufacturer turns the speeds down to 2000mhz (even though it is a faster chip) and sells it as the slow model. this allows manufacturers to not lose tons of money on the massive runs of chips or leds or w/e when some do not pass quality control at a certain level but will pass QA at the lower. we consumers also sometimes find out that manufacturers who couldnt sell the super fast or brightest item have lowerered their specs and sold them as the slower models EVEN though they pass the higher QA jut to make room for the new stuff. If you follow or are into overclocking PC's the binning process and its various steps and screw ups are closely followed. apologies for the long post but figure more info is better.

the garlic tip above is gold. take the food you want them to eat, soak it in garlic and then add the garlic and the food to the tank. the garlic is a very powerful feeding response smell to the point that almot dying fish have perked up and eaten when used at times. it is your best bt if that fish gets thin and still turns up its nose at your offerings. if it isnt thinning at all, it may be more comfortable eating when you arent there, or once the food has settled in the tank. you can turn off the room lights set a chair farther back from the tank. feed and then try to sit still and just watch. eventually you may see him go nuts eating off what has settled.

some people are not affected by the stings or not nearly as much as others (I do not react other then redden a bit, my friend is allergic to the sting) If you are concerned then a set of aquarium gloves and a small set of tweezers are good purchases for the fish toolkit. use the gloves when you move rockwork or disturb the sand bed, and use the tweezers if you find one and either want to remove it, or need to move it without dealing with the bristles. HTH

I used to exclusively use the grape caulerpa that was renowned for going sexual in my refugium and with this setup I never had any attach in the main tank, but it is a bit impractical. Back then I ran a very large pond rated UV sterilizer that was 3 feet long for several non related reasons, but any caulerpa that got loose had to travel through that to get to any display tank. the bits that made it through were completely clear, or bleached white, and never recovered or became an issue. That being said keeping a light on caulerpa for 12 hours a day in a reverse cycle from daylight is a good way to keep them from going sexual due to stress or not enough growth/photosynthesis. cheato is still a much better option regardless due to its non interest in rock attachment. grape caulerpa loved rocks in the fuge and literally balled into then grew off of them.

generally we have them as detritus eaters as bowie said above, however between my porc puffers and a few other fish that took a liking to them, my main tank is very low on bristleworms, we made a point to move most of them to the refugium that we could find. this works well as the refugium is the nutirent sink area of the tank (slow flow and no powerheads) and they rarely wish to or survive the travel through the panworld return pump or the uv sterilizer. they are beneficial though, just not always welcome when disturbed.

gmu if you get any superglue on you acetone will help break it down and allow you to remove or detach w/e you glued together. generally found as nail polish remover it works pretty decent

you are correct beatle, and I guess it would help to say that the main reason for looking at a 4ft tank was because I was going to put it next to my 75 gallon reef tank and create an L shaped tank system in the fish area which would allow me to "hide" the external skimmer and plumbing stuff.(wish I had photos but the camera is not available due to "wedding planning" I am told.) both the 210 and the 225 on here breaking down would be a great tank to work with except for the top to bottom depth. I find them harder to aquascape and that the fish tend to spend most of their time in the lower 2/3's of the tank making it look sorta empty up top. In my 75 I cured that somewhat by building rock structures that arch and the tops of the arches get near the top, allowing fish to roam the area more comfortably, but the extra 8-9 inches on the 210/220 means I will need some serious epoxy/dowel work to get the same effect.

mm well i am very interested, that would certainly solve my fiancee wanting another tank.

ok, if you could get dimensions of it or a photo it would be much appreciated. is it a standard aga or marineland 225? Thanks

i know way back BRK had the apex. I would imagine sean @ F&F could also order it

thanks i posted in that thread

what are the dimensions on the 225 gallon tank? assume its not drilled or Reef ready? if you have any photos as well it would be much appreciated. thanks

I am looking for a bigger tank as my fiancee has expressed interest in a FOWLR tank for a ghost eel and wants to claim my 75 gallon as its home. i have looked at a few different designs and sizes, but i am torn between a 125 gallon 6 foot tank or a marine land 200g 4ft by 3ft tank. do any of the vendors have a price on the marineland tanks? or anyone in wamas currently using one? how do you like them? any critiques or changes you'd like? those in the club with 6ft tanks how do you like them, I remember Dave hochheisers 180g tank and chips 220, and the depth seemed off at certain angles, hence the thinking of a more cube design, but i know they are great for tangs and other swimming fish due to the extra length. suggestions opinions? i know there are plenty of cube tanks in wamas and certainly a few 120 or 125's floating around. anyone who happens to have a tank they are looking to sell in that size range please pm me the details as well. Thanks

That sounds like a cool idea, and i agree pistons are certainly capable of fulfilling your needed water mover roles here, on the refugium you want to move around, could you leave it suspended like you have in the drawings, and walk under it to view the center tank area? I know it might be and probably will be a giant pain in the arse, but tank up higher and a curtain on the walkway and you got yourself 360 degree views from your couch, while probably also not feasible, they do make rotating floor assemblies (saw it on an episode of mancaves on DIY network) where they moved the couches in the center of the room to point at the various tvs and big screens, while i doubt it is cost effective, if your tank stays 20x11x11 you would certainly have the real estate to have different style of reef worth viewing. you may also want to put a stack of folding chairs nearby for your first tank tour down the road, we Wamas types like to put noses to glass almost to get the best photos we can xD one couch in the middle simply wont be enough

the 15 dollar comment was that he said his gas bill did not go above an additional 15 bucks after adding the sump pex heat system, seeing as electric heaters and such are not feasible for the scale you are discussing, an additional 15 bucks or so to heat your water is peanuts compared to other costs. I do know after reading the entire thread on that 1000g plywood tank splits and all (i was bored xD) he has significantly cheaper gas then electricity, so that is likely why it worked so well for him, I know it is about equal in cost down here, although i do miss gas hot water heaters when power goes out... cold showers are no fun. neither is emergency tank heating with a generator and blankets. if your gas is significantly more expensive as you said maybe only as a backup. the german wave design "thing" I only brought that up as a wave making device since it is able to be solar powered, should save money depending on its initial costs in the long run since yo are not plugging "one more thing" into the house. Whether it is a viable unit for your use i haven't a clue, but they discuss the wave curves it can do without disturbing the waters surface, so in theory you should be able to make a very large wave or gyre style effect (simulating the reef very well)in your tank potentially without the salt creep issues of dump boxes etc. http://www.oloid.ch/frame.php3?lang=en&nav=ver&content=ruehrer

since I cant edit the last post dave you may wish to look into one of these things, apparently they do all sorts of water movement and do so with minimum electricity usage ie use solar to drive it, its like plug and play for a greehouse granted I have no idea its cost, but it is cool. http://www.oloid.ch/frame.php3?lang=en&nav=pro&content=oloid_typ200

i finished reading a thread oer at Rc about a 1000g plywood tankbuild and I found the radiant heat "system" I was trying to find for you on top of the floor. here is a direct link to the thread, He ran pex tubing from his water heater through a hot water house pump controlled by a ranco heat controller and 100feet of pex tubing in his sump (separate systems so no contaminating the SW or house water) seems to keep his tank right where he wants it for very low cost. he was seeing less then 15 bucks for 1500gallons of water ish total to heat. Pex radiant heat run page 20 has more photos of the pump etc that may be of help then something else that may save you innumerable headaches a DIY salt mix he used as well. seems his corals and inverts are doing as well or better then previous with RC/IO mixes DIY salt mix it is a bit to read but he has it in grams per 1000gallons, a bit later he breaks down what brand names he used to get the ingredients, and a math formula for mixing smaller amounts with proper ratios. bit of a read but HTH

i received cash, but getting store credit for the more expensive version is a nice deal. iirc the pros were 5-10 more bucks then the equiv old stealths.

dan you have PM, let me know if that is workable or not. Thanks for being so flexible. Did some measuring and stretching and should be able to fit it in the "skimmer" chamber of my sump with about 1 inch to spare, assuming the 9x12 still applies.

accordign to my local petsmart, marineland simply is reimbursing them retail cost of the heaters that the refund. so i got 30 for my 100w and 40 for my 250w heater. they had to look up the pricing off the recall sheet, but they did not need receipts or anything. I just put heaters on the table, and walked out with cash. i probably should have called the 800 number for the 250w heater as their newer heaters are very nice, but for 10 bucks less i got a good replacement so not too worried. so tom prepare to make quite a pretty penny off your stash if you want to.

if petsmart refuses you can just go direct to marineland, but i would bet that since petsmart is so widespread, that its easier for marine land to get them out of the market faster by doing some sort of deal like this. I know I would be less likely to jump through hoops with marineland on the phone especially if you have to ask for shipping to be covered etc, versus just walking in petsmart and doing it all in a few minutes there, and while I am not a lawyer i bet it is cheaper to set that deal up then defend or deal with the potential lawsuits or bad pr if some obvious defect or material issue was found and publicized at the level they are pushing this recall. marineland is the "toyota" of fish stuff, so they have everything to lose if this got out of hand.

Hi I am Justin , This is more of a reintroduction because of the many new (to me anyway) faces here in WAMAS. I am one of your most southernly members down here in central VA, but I still get up to the DC area periodically, Figured since I have been away from wamas for 6 months or so and very inactive for about 2 years for several reasons, that it would be easier to share some info and say hello again to the older wamas members who I remember and a whole bunch of newer faces. I am decent at some things, introductions aren't one of them though, but here we go anyway I started in fish tanks about 14ish years ago, having worked in various settings from fish tank maintenance to pet stores, to breeding and "training" (more on that later), to working with Bob Fenner at Wetwebmedia for a while (back when Anthony Calfo and Steven Pro were there full time). I enjoyed that greatly and meeting them and other great people through out my more active time in the hobby has been very rewarding. From long hours debating gonipora at IMAC, to a relatively successful regal angel program which taught finicky regals to eat using of all things a porcupine puffer fish, the hobby has been a wild ride to say the least. I can certainly say I haven't always been successful, but I have had alot of fun. Quite a bit of that was because of WAMAS, and its various members. This ride all started when I met Ybnormal, which some of you may remember before he got busy, on a pufferfish message board ph all places, one thing led to another and I was headed to DC, to build fish tank stands and take a few stabs at acrylic work and see what happens when you stuck a boat propeller on a maxijet (wow I feel a bit old now). enough about me, for those of you who are reading this as a BB member, your money is well spent joining WAMAS. I certainly find it to be one of my best 20 bucks spent and I live 4 hours away. This is a great community, and I certainly am proud to be a part of it. I couldn't ask for better people to discuss some of the craziest designs and theories over fish tanks, frags, and a beer then some of the people here. I do not have current tank shots of my 100ish gallon system, but I will get some soon, In honor of physigs being tank of the month I have some of the old photos of right after the tank was setup. Congrats Chris. It was a pleasure meeting you so long ago with Bob I hope you enjoy these. front FTS one of the coolest things we got to see was how he had plumbed it all into the tiny little space behind the tank itself, and hidden almost everything from view. this is from the doorway into the "fish area" then and somehow he crammed a giant trough tank for his sump in the back and framed it in lastly this is an old members tank which is now no longer in service, though it certainly was beautiful, If you know who this tank belongs to you earn a cookie and a smiley face. This is one of my favorite tanks, and the Wamas member's hospitality is incredible, I am sure he will speak up if he wants to this clam is bigger then a basketball here, the clowns hosted inside it. foot plus diameter cup coral anyone? the left side the frag tank on the farthest left side, my note/quote for this photo is "this is half full, I have more to weed out later" from the owner

well as soon as I know and can get home to post I will make sure I get an update up, I do know the recall covers all heaters 100w and up old or new style regardless of age according to my local petsmart, so hopefully the ones up there play by the same rules, if not I can at least give you the contact info to this store and yours can contact them if they arent on board with the recall. again I think the pure refund is due to my local not being stocked like the DC stores are in general so instead of bringing in heaters they dont carry normally to swap out they are just refunding. ironically my store does carry ehiem jager heaters, just not in the wattage I need (100w and less). I would love to swap to one of those simply due to their quality on the long term (tons of great reviews)

no i specifically asked what to bring in, the fish department girl/woman said if i had a reciept to bring it in with them otherwise due to the recall they were doing the refunds regardless. so I will be testing that out this evening (5-7pmish) and will post back what happened. It appears that my local petsmart does not carry the marine land larger heaters at all so that is likely why they are doing a refund if that is really the case. and tom my 100w is over 5 years old and my 250w is at least 3 years old maybe 4. they are both the "old" style stealths, not the stealth pros.

i would assume you are correct dave, I cannot find the link or article, but there was a tpye of glass coating that allowed light through on one side but trapped its escape back out, it was used in high tech greenhouses years ago to help prevent winter temperature drops, I will continue to google search in hopes that i can find it, but what you are looking at insulation and geothermal wise should be ok unless my math is terrible again. i reread what you posted above about forced air usage if the temp drops instead of using drop in heaters, i think depending on how you have sealed the greenhouse/ refugium areas, to be the most efficient way of heating the water economically, but you also mentioned on page 1 radiant heating, have you considered tiling the floor under the entire tanks and running a radiant heat system that is separate from the room radiant heat connected to a thermometer or tank controller? that way the heat naturally rises through from the tiles to the tanks (abet that glass or acrylic tanks arent the best heat absorbers,) so you minimize the flow needed to keep the water uniformly warm? once the tank hits a certain temp the radiant heat is shut off by the controller. whether that is worth doing or not I do not know, but it would make it a lot more pleasant to be in the room in the winter due to a nice warm floor.