dandy7200

Considering something in the 280 range and only need one side viewable so am giving it some serious thought. I would build something around 120ish first as a test tank and that could work as the sump for the 280. I would like to here from someone local about whats really involved and check it out in person. So if you have done it or know someone who has please let me know. Dan

If you have a compression fitting at the needle valve remove the tubing and cut a inch off, put it back together and I'm pretty sure this will solve you leak.

I'm confused too..."I don't see the bubbels in the bubbke counter" then "i hear air leak... and see bubbles in the bubble count".??? Did you remember to grab the gasket from the empty tank you gave me? Sometimes they stick to the tank rather than the regulator. Pull the regulator back off and open the tank valve tons of co2 should shoot out. Then put the regulator back on (hopefully you have your gasket still), and cut the power for your solenoid then open up the tank valve again....do you hear a leak?

I don't mind giving you a hand it's actually much easier than all the jumble jamble relay electrical talk. If you really want the safe and easy route they do sell them premade like this (I just like to tinker). They are $32 plus shipping and you still need to add the extention cord and the gang box and cover (I also hate paying more for something I can easily make). Heres a link. http://www.electricsuppliesonline.com/infdencointi21.html Its the FD32HW. Dan

Using a 120VAC coil, you would wire the neutral from the wall to one side of the relay. You would wire the hot to one side of the TIMER and the OUTPUT of the timer to the other side of the relay coil. This means that when the TIMER is on (making contact) the relay coil is energized. The relay will have 3 sets of contacts Normally Open (NO) and Normaly CLosed (NC). and COMMON. You would wire the HOT from the timer to one COMMON and the Neutral to the other COMMON. (we want to switch the neutral also, just to be safe). You would wire the pump that you want controlled to the NC (normally closed) contacts. That is, the HOT lead from the pump to the NC contact on the HOT side of the relay and Neutral from the pump to the Neutral side of the relay... Remember this is a double pole relay meaning it is basically 2 independent switches controlled by one coil and we want to switch the hot and neutral just to be safe. You don't need to hook anything to the NO contacts (unless you want something to come on when the pump is off). When the coil is idel (the timer is not running), the contacts remain shut and the pump runs as expected. When you set the timer, it energizes the coil and pulls the contacts over to the NO side, breaking the NC connection and turning off the pump. I hope that makes sense. Dan

Alright now the relay version (no cutting or drilling required). The same relay you guys used to build those nifty battery backups (my next project). The first one only worked 80% of the time. This one actually works 100% of the time but, now its a $25 FEED TIMER Dan

"I can only do this when Johnny is out of the shop! So the sale ends on Sunday (the day I leave and he comes back)" So we can expect the following week Johnny to be selling the "not for sale" shelf off at a 50% discount?

In case you don't know what it's for......It will turn off your return pump while you feed and then turn it back on automatically for you. Useful for absent minded, easily distracted people like me. Start with this. then pull cover off (I drilled out the screws because I didn't have a small enough star drive bit) Then drill out two more screws to get to this piece in the middle. Now if you look carefully at the white dial you can see a notch on the right side. This is where the metal spring normally sits. I have already flipped it at this stage to take measurements. You can also see that the sping in this position closes the circuit (on) rather than the normal way when it is sitting in the slot is open (off). CAREFULLY use a razor blade to trim off most of the dial except where it was resting in the closed (on) position. TBC.......... Now put er back together the same way it came apart. I had to use some supa glue and gorilla tape since I drilled out my screws. Then I put it in a box and cut a extention cord in half and wired it like so............. Slap the cover and stuff on it................ Yes it say's off when the pump is really on. But hey the timer is acurate wadda ya want? Finished product. By using the extention cord rather than splicing a pump wire you can plug in whatever you want. Hanging on my 29. I'll probably drill a hole to run the cords through so it looks nice and neat when done. Just thought I'd share with ya'll.

Just thought I would share a pretty neat picture of this filterfeeding hitcher. I have not seen one of this size before. Red Forams Homotrema rubrum to be exact.

I use the tigerfloat from algae free. WORTH THE $$$$. It really does clean and polish the outside of the glass as well which is one of the biggest edges it has over the magfloat. That and incredibly strong magnets that clean the inside in one pass.

That is a open invitation to for other members as well. I don't have much else to trade and am trying to get my new tank stocked. See it's empty. Help me out here........ I know you guys need Co2 I can spare about one tank every two weeks.

I'll exchange a 20#er for a frag. No hassle. I'm in alexandria. PM me if interested.