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GARF just cancelled on CMAS. Count me in for the tour. Can we bring anything? Thanks, Steve

Bob points out some lacking crucial details. Hoping to use a generic glass tank - probably 40g or 58g. I'd do the drilling myself.

Putting it out to the DIY crowd. I'd like to make a tank viewable from all four sides, ideally with no equipment above it(sans pendant lighting) or hanging on the sides. I realize that is it nothing too difficult. However, I'd like to run a closed loop, sump drain, and returns on the tank - I would likely stem the intake portion of the loop, the sump drain, and sump return up from the base to prevent sand intake and in the case of the sump accommodate the drain during a power outage. Anyone have an opinion on if 8 holes in the bottom panel of a tank (probably a 36"x18" footprint is possible or am I asking for trouble? I suppose I could remove the bottom and do a sealed plywood base to do this but that seems like a lot more work than I'm looking for. If this number of holes is possible - any opinion on the minimum spacing? Thanks in advance, Steve

This container would be great for my new tank but I hate to spend $30 for a simple container for top-off. Anyone know of a similar item? The dimensions of this one are perfect. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/product.a...roduct%5Fid=953

Nice find Yanek. Very helpful...too much math (just kidding) but definitely sheds some light on head pressure issues.

That tank is made by Lee-Mar. Pretty much West Coast distribution only. That's an awesome tank and the price for the tank is surprisingly cheap since it's owner needs to sell.

The tank may not "rest of the edges" but you can support the weight at a number of points. I was debating about doing boxes for the for top and bottom. But are they necessary? I was gonna run some pieces between the legs at the top, bottom, and middle not just between the front two or the sides but alternatingly probably - linking all of them at the top, the sides and the back at the middle-although the shelf will do that anyway, and just the sides at the bottom.. That should minimize the potential for sway. The sides and back will probably have 1/4" ply with 90% of the remaining present. Do you really think the ply is gonna sag across a 24" span where a 3"x1.25" area of the tank is directly above the support legs? I mean that implies that the bottom glass is going to bow quite a bit. If the sheet were longer or wider I miht be considered about this but 22x22 isn't too large. I will definitely consider using boxes at the top and bottom. I'm pretty torn on whether they are really necessary. What are your thoughts Eric? Btw I planning on running my AP600 and I'm looking forward to seeing the production you've got - thanks for putting your pics up. Steve

Exactly what size legs would you use on a 180g tank? 4x4s are massive overkill. If you take note from commercially available stands - 1x3s and 1/2 plywood are sufficient up to around 90g probably higher. I will say I wish I was only looking at 450lbs - I figure it will be closer to 600 since this tank is low-iron and quite a bit heavier than standard plate glass. I appreciate the offer of advice but I rather be realistic about this. As for height. the stand contains an internal shelf around 30". The top of the stand will be around 50" I guess. And the tank will span the area up to 70". These are roughly accurate but wood thickness will affect the exact height.

So I'm building a stand for a 22x22x20 Glasscages cube tank. I'm planning on doing four 1.25 by 5/8 legs between a sheet on plywood on the top and bottom. There will be cross bracing between the legs to prevent sway in the stand....however, I was hoping to just connect the legs to the plywood on top by countersinking two screws for each leg. All four corners of the will actually rest on the legs so it will be direct support. My question is whether 1/2 birch plywood will work for the top or if I should use the 3/4 oak I have available. I prefer the birch because of it's appearance but I don't want to compromise on strength. Any thoughts? Is the thickness of the plywood irrelevant since the tank is directly above the legs? Steve

Steve - Which Lowes have you seen bulkheads at? Most chain hardware stores and even building suppliers look at you like your a moron when you ask for them. Steve

I can lend a hand for the lifting if you need it Howard. Steve

If you provide contact info and order info, I would be more than happy to register my feelings about this with the owner/operator. Maybe pressure from enough different people would make them consider doing the right thing. Steve

I'll help too some removal....I would gladly take some of it for my tank. One solution seems to be isolated the coral from the rest of your reef - ie placing it's rocks on a sandbed with no other contact with the rest of your LR. I'm always amazed how well Anthelia and Xenia does in others tanks.....other softies and corals do great in mine but I can't get either of these pests to take off in my tank. Steve

I would get a price from GC on the tank design you want then decide if the risk of poor quality in either the silcone seams or edges of the glass is worth it. I have purchased two glasscages tanks - one glass cube and one acrylic cube. End conclusion is that their work is disappointing but a cheap alternative. If I was doing a final display, I would absolutely go with another custom manufacturer or a standard Oceanic tank. Now to your question: If I was doing a 125 I would do a center overflow with two 2" drains and two 1.5" holes drilled outside of the overflow along side the overflow for a closed loop. This assumes that you would be able to view the tank from the short sides - ie setup on a typical stand. If the short sides weren't visible I would do two corner overflows and have the drains for the CL near each of overflows. You might also consider return holes for the CL. IE something like 4 1/2" or 3/4" bulkhead holes. Depending on your ideas for the tank down the line, the location of those Something to think about: Any particular reason you are leaning towards a 125? If you have room I would suggest a 180 with 6' x 2' footprint. 125s are great for reefs but the 24" front to back depth makes a huge difference. If total gallons is a concern - the 4'x2'x2' 120 is a nice alternative also. Steve

Hey Lee: I would interested in a frag of each of these. I've got some SPS frags from the Seacrop order and some orange mushrooms if you are interested. Steve

I have no idea on the question.... But a pair of Copperbands is incredible. So many reefers struggle to keep them in reef tanks or even keep them feeding. Here you have two of them no only living and not picking on the reef, but also pairing up. Absolutely incredible. Where exactly are you located? I have to see at some point. Steve

Well, I figured I should come clean. It's April 1st and frankly I decided making myself look like an idiot or hick to get a reaction was better than my other idea. The alternative was sending everyone in the group order an e-mail saying that the order was cancelled, they weren't getting their money back, and that I had moved. Alas, I think RC's little Tank of the Month scam got a better reaction.

I suppose the fact that it died does present a bit of a problem. I'm still tempted - for that matter I think my cat really wants me to cook some fish tonight. I got Salmon in the freezer....but grouper is soooo good. If I were to cook it, any suggestion on favor/style? I typically make cajun style or a lemon/garlic broiled fish. I think grouper is best fried - at least when I've had it before.

Howard, I've a Iwasaki 250W and two different Icecap ballasts I can supply if you guys are interested. I don't know that I could hang for very long - I've got my minor comprehensive exam for my degree in a week.

Well, guys. I had this fish forever but it died today. It's probably pretty close to 16" in size. I can't tell what it died of so it might be just old age and not a disease or anything. I got it out of the tank as soon as I saw it had actually died. It was breathing hard for a while so I had isolated it in QT. Does anyone think it will be ok to fillet and panfry this fish? I mean I ate a lot of grouper last weekend when I was visiting my parents and it's a really taste fish. The fish is already dead so I wouldn't be actively killed. Also, I'm pretty sure about the safety of consumption based on what it was being fed. Any ideas?

Where did you buy these fish? I would be careful if the firefish are feeling without a home - I hope you've got a cover cause those fish are chronic carpet surfers.

Wow! That LR looks great. The zoos and mushrooms are perfect for a nano - where did you ever find such great things? JK The tank looks awesome. Glad to see that LR went to good use since it was just hanging out in my LR vat. Steve

Very interested in a number of these pairs for myself and friend. I have some BTA - very large about 6-10 inches open? Any interest? Also, potential Galaxia frags from a colony in the same setup for 6+ years. LMK Steve

Does anyone know what actions keep a sandbed safe long-term? I guess I shouldn't be too worried with my new tank since odds are I will move before it would ever go bad but ya know it helps to know what works. A number of people seem to have had truly long-term success with sand. Has there been any informal poll of Wamas reefers about sandbed success and procedures? Clearly some distinction between DSB and shallow (1/2" to 1") should be made but I'm really interested in what locals have succeeded with.

Yeah I definitely wouldn't try to add it to a established reef tank with a sand bed. Too much hassle for the benefit. The rack had a solid sheet of acrylic across the bottom to keep the ends together and the weight of sand on that keeps it vertical. I think he zip tied and epoxied rocks into place but his was narrower so this was somewhat necessary. I think I would try to glue sand to the structure like some people to do starboard bottoms they place in a tank. Of course I'm starting in an empty tank with this project so I guess that makes it easier. I suppose this installation difficulty presents a problem for Lee but planning from the beginning and using appropriately thick acrylic, it would be fun to design one of these with some powerhead mounts built in.