sde219

oh yeah, what are you doing up this late? I mean I'm an irresponsible grad student - what's your excuse :P

Concerns are totally valid. I was skeptical at first. When visiting my girlfriend this past week, I swung by his place in Queens - the reef rack is in the 120. I think the rack spans 36"-40" and rises about 18" at it's highest. Anthony actually has the most compact, stocked fish room I've ever seen - probably a 6x8 footprint for the room including the walls that his tanks are. I think 6 tanks/fuges in the room totalling around 400g. Oh, to have a house and not an apartment. Just out of interest what concerns do you have besides strength and stability? I just wondered because I'm planning using one.

Reason I prefer something to lift the rock rather than piling it up: 1) Better flow - keeps waste from getting trapped in the rocks 2) More swimming/hiding space for fish 3) Less rock needed obviously 4) Cavern for less light intensive corals BTW - this structure is in a 4x2x2 120 tank so I think it could work in a 150, it just depends how much rock you want to have. Personally I think a lot of tanks are overstocked with rocks. The amount most people put in their tank easily exceeds the necessary amount for bio filtration. Acrylic is stronger than most people realize - I suppose it would be beneficial for a really large tank to use a structure with more bracing but I pressed on one of these dry and I really think it could hold 200+ lbs of rock. I found his structure to be a little narrower than I would prefer but depending on overflow orientation I would consider making a 12in wide reef rack for a 24in tank I suppose it really it is a personal preference - I like cave effect of this structure more than any other factor but that may a result my preferences in fish selection. Just tossing an idea out there but I wouldn't discount it for strength or large tank applications.

Here is what I believe is hands down the coolest reef support structure. I saw the tank in person it is great because it doesn't create dead water and it is nearly invisible and definitely will be more so that PVC structures. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthre...threadid=473006 I was thinking of having some people over during the NCAAs - maybe if some one knows where to get the supplies, we can grab some hair dryers and make a few while watching hoops. Anyone up for this? Maybe next Thursday(17th) night? Steve

It's more than a triple threat cause I think there are at least three other fairly active "Steve"s in this group. Thus I'm gonna start going by my last name - thus I will go by Elliott to avoid confusion or I could be "The reefer formally known as Steve" I don't know if there are more "Steve"s than other names but I bet we take the cake for the most combined posts for a single first name. Outlaw: Let me know if you need some help with your tank move, I'm actually supposed to be in the greater DC area for that weekend and I wouldn't mind lending a hand and seeing your new tank. Of course some different grain sizes of sand will be a huge plus also. Elliott

I just checked out Ajaf from RC's reefrack in person. It looks great and it is pretty invisible. I'm gonna make one of these for myself - I wouldn't mind trying to make two of them. I would guess they cost around $30 in materials and he said I can probably do it inside an hour. The structure allows you to have less rockwork and still get a nice vertical design. In addition none of the dead water/dead space from PVC racks. I will look for the link after I get back from my presentation tonight. Steve

I think these guys want to attach the unit to the faucet itself - not to the water line underneath. Your best bet is to buy this adapter on Ebay. I couldn't find one locally although I ended up deciding that hooking the system up to the feed line to the toilet was the easiest in my apartment. The faucet adapter is available from a few other sources - other RO manufacturers and such. If you need help with a hard plumbing hookup, Howards' advice will work or I could lend you a hand. Be careful if you have the hard pvc plumbing that it is heated so fitting connect....I learned this lesson the hard way.

The Aqua-safe units on Ebay aren't bad. If you get one, don't order extra cartridges or DI pellets - I bought a mass quantity last time and would gladly split them to save some space in my apartment. I think lnemup is selling an RO unit though but it won't be available for a week or so. Ebay or used is the only way to go - the Kent systems are just too expensive for my taste.

Dano: I would contact "Gatortailale" - Craig Kuhn. He handles membership issues. I was just making the effort for Blake cause I thought me might not mention it. John: I'm looking forward to some pics. I was pretty reluctant to sell that rock off. Those were some pretty cool zoos and shrooms. If you are ever able to frag them or if they spread to another rock be sure to let me know. Glad to the rock is working out for you though since it really wasn't doing too much for me in that tank....I can't wait to have my full system up. Steve

Well, I see the light at the end of the tunnel....my jawfish/carib biotype tank is just about ready to be setup. I picked up some yardright for the tank the other day but I know that I need some larger substrates too. Does anyone know of a good source for crushed coral? I'm not positive but I'm petty sure that borrowing fish will require a substrate that doesn't just collapse on itself. Also if anyone has some live rock rubble - very small stuff - I'm looking to get some if it also. Steve

Hey we all know that having a RO unit and mixing your own SW is ideal cost-wise and sometimes hassle-wise but knowing Blake's situation it is just not possible for him right now. Blake - if you want some RO/DI water - not SW-mixed but for topoff let me know. I can have ten gallons or so available for you when you need it. Hey mods - any idea why Blake (FloridaShock) is just BB member? I'm pretty sure he's a high schooler so he should qualify for the free student membership. I sent him over to this board when he bought a tank off of me but it's possible that he didn't sign up in a way that would give him the appropriate membership.

The lighting you describe - 2x55W PCs and 2x40W NOs is not sufficient for any anemone other than perhaps rock anemones and is probably insufficient for most corals except some softies. There are exceptions to this but starting off right will make this hobby a lot easier for you. If you make a comprehensive list of everything you want to keep it would be easier for us to advise you on lighting. The particular corals - both type(LPS,SPS,Softies,Anemones) and species play a particularly important role in the lighting, water flow, and filters that aquarists select. Making the right choice from the beginning is the most cost effective and hassle-free way to enjoy the hobby. Your fish selections affect the types of corals you can keep also. Knowing what you want is the most important factor in how to provide for it. If you think $450 is a lot for your lighting, you are going to be in for a bit of a wake up call because this hobby isn't cheap and a 72bowfront is one of the more difficult DIYs for lighting because one can't easily just throw together a canopy. Assuming you want the aquarium to be show quality and very visible you will need either a nice wooden canopy or an enclosed fixture both of which tend to be more pricy and they dictate the type of lighting arrangement you can provide. If you prefer a fixture over a hood, Your cheapest option is a probably around $250 new and would have 4x65W PCs - the upper end of fixtures would probaly be around $800 and would include 2x250W MHs and some actinic PCs. Retrofitting a fixture into a canopy will be slightly less expensive but you will need to find a canopy that you like and decide on what to keep to figure out what bulbs/retrofit you need. You can save money buying used and I highly reccommend it. But the first step is what you want - in detail - and that might require a bit of research and window shopping to get an idea. I suggest looking at some local WAMAS members reefs and deciding what you want yours to look like and what kind of effort you want to put into it.

Hold on for just a second, you may have actually overtightened the bulkhead - this causes slippage and leaks. Also, the silicone bead is highly disputed, it makes the gasket more likely to slip and not function properly. I would suggest removing and examining the bulkhead - you might need a new gasket. Then hand tighten the bulkhead back in and give it only a quarter turn with tools after it is hand tight. you could use silicone around the edges of the bulkead both internally and externally. Steve

Ok, I'm looking for some advice here. I enjoy having hermits in a tank but those little son of a guns..... I just got a load of snails and ten red-tip crabs from the Kenyon coral order. Less than four minutes after introducing the snails and the crabs to the same tank, three of the hermits had flipped a margarita snail were tearing it apart. Anyone know how to find a for sure reef safe hermit? Every hermit I've had has eventually decimated the snail population particularly the larger astrea, turbo, margaritas. I'm wondering if Cerith and Narc. snails are less prone to attack but at this point I'm not interested in experimenting anymore. Frankly, I've never had a great algae control program but I want to fix that in my new setup. Any suggestions? Steve

So how many of you think I was gonna ask about a wet/dry versus a standard sump and live rock? Actually I'm looking for a wet-dry vaccum for my apartment. After having a few bad spills, I decided I need to have a more effective way to clean up water spills from a tank disaster or sloppiness with water changes. Any suggestions? I'm looking something cheap but not one of the shop ones that tend to toss a lot of dust when they are used. Steve

Wow, crazy interest in these things. Here's my source: http://www.progearwarehouse.com/ They sell three or four units each week on Ebay. Most Auctions end for $26.99 with free shipping. Here is a cheaper model: http://www.progearwarehouse.com/s.nl/sc.2/category.133/it.A/id.423/.f And a slightly cheaper model: http://www.progearwarehouse.com/s.nl/category.1/it.A/id.77/.f I spoke on the phone with the progear guys in the past and I would be happy to coordinate an order for these things. I must say though that the PC100A for 26.99 shipped is better than I can try to get.....trust me I tried. The other models though seem pretty much the same although maybe someone a little more electrically savy than I can compare them. The plugs are a little too close for most timers to be direectly on the unit without covering up the next slot. GE Appliance timers (PM613US) are nice because you can fid them on every one one and still use the plug inbetween since they are offset. I actually prefer the cheapest model because of plus direction and switch size.. Let's see where this thread goes and we can maybe work something out. Steve

Ghazanfar: If you swing out that way I might be interested in having you pick up some for me. We could meet up at some point if you are still interested in the LR. Steve

Hey guys, I've got a better source for these. Let me dig up the link. There are a few cheaper models too. I have a few extra around here also - still in the box from an overly ambitious project. I highly recommend them. Leishman: At some point I would like to compare that PC-100A model with two other models I have. Always trying to find optimal plug spacing and everything. Steve

Hey everyone...I know we just did a Drs Foter and Smith order but....petsolutions has a good price on what I'm looking for and free shipping is a definite possiblity so who wants in? Even if isn't free shipping is only $10.99. Pickup in Crystal City 22202 or a scheduled meetup at Roozens. I'm not going to meeting and not sure we will finalize this before then anyway. Let me know. Current Order Steve - sde219 (2) 88350157 QUIET ONE PUMP 3000 (1) 88350159 QUIET ONE PUMP 4000 more to come.... Anyone else? EDIT: Just cause its easier for me can requests to be added to the order be e-mailed to me at sde219@gmail.com or via the e-mail button. PMs are kinda a hassle for a lot of back and forth convos.

The expansion of this business has been pretty amazing. It will be interesting to see how this effort goes. Gotta love the fact that it will minimize shipping costs and time for us! Steve

Hey Sam: Is that Acro Formosa the colony I gave you? It's looking quite good. Steve

Not having seen the file, I just want to let you know that the massive list of deep sea creatures that reportedly washed ashore by the Tsunami is pretty much bunk. The tidal wave actually didn't damage or touch any of the deep water areas and the e-mail going around is largely two year old research photos. Tons of threads on RC about this but they were some pretty cool photos. Steve

I think general consensus remains that placing a single clown in with this pair regardless of the species you select will likely result in the death of that clown. Once a pair forms they typically become hostile to all other clownfish in the tank even if the other clown was part of a larger group initially. If you insist on adding a clown, the only species that might have a decent chance of not being harassed to death is a skunk clown. I've had odd experience with skunk clowns in tanks with maroons or percs. I don't know if it is because of the different body type but these guys frequently seem to exist in tanks absent the pairing/grouping arrangements that I have come to expect with clownfishes. Best advice remains though - don't try to add a single or pair of clownfish to that system. You've got a good amount of fish in there already - introducing another fish that is likely to result in conflict which could then have other negative effects. Steve

My first reaction would be that you will not be able to put a second pair in a tank that size. Now there is a chance that it might work out if terrorities could be established by creating natural barriers in the tank. Even so I don't think it could be accomplished in a 75g - maybe in longer tank where the pairs could be spaced out further. There are many other great fish you should consider rather than taking a risk with a second pair of clowns. Steve