Shoelace

I don't have the Sol, but I have two AI Nano's running over my nano. I think they have the same cool white / royal blue / blue bulbs that the Sol Super Blue has. Can't say I'm close, but it's worth a shot if you ever drive toward Baltimore... Any reason you're not looking at the Hydra or the 52?

Thanks. The fact you know it's a bass and not just a "geetar" kicks you up a notch!

That's a really nice scape, Mike. On the flip side, I think you're right, Ryan. So my pseudo inspiration scape is so cool and when bare, has a lot of neat details and such - a work of art in itself: But when it fills in with corals all of those neat shadows and nooks and crannies that seems important with the dry rock scape goes "poof" and all you're left with is the overall shape of the scape:

There are many great options for nano skimmers. Would it be in your 3G sump or HOB off the 20L?

Thanks, Ryan. I can't say that I'm overjoyed with my aquascape, but I'm pretty sure things are going to move around a bit when I get frags on large rocks, etc., so I'm finally out of my obsessing phase. I know you may be going through that, but it, too, shall pass

Thanks Mike. It's really convenient to have the space! I'm heeding people's advice and saving a space for a Q tank and a maybe a fragtank on a double "bunkbed" stand.

The tank room is long and narrow which is why I could only take a panoramic iPhone shot of the full sump. Here is the tank shot down the length. I just hope Santa can bring me the group buy lights before Christmas!!!

Here is my sink and water changing area. The raised Brute is for fresh. Because I've always been nervous about drilling a hole and putting a uniseal on the bottom of these curved trash cans, I decided everything is going over the top. The freshwater goes around the sink to either the lower Brute for saltwater mixing or to my ATO container by way of ball valves. The fresh water has a bulkhead to overflow into the sink in case the float valve fails (and I hear they do :( ) The salt mixing Brute has a couple of ball valves so water can either recirc or go back up into the DT. I originally wanted to do water changes from out of the sump, but because of the small overflow volume and the baffles, I can't get enough out of the sump for a good sized water change, so water has to come by siphon out of the DT.

When my reef was setup before, I remember a very thin salt film building up on things over time in the tank room. So I decided to house the Apex and stuff in a raised Ikea cabinet. Of course, I have some wire management to do. (Did I ever mention I hate wires?)

Left side of 40G Long sump. Tank is cycling with Dr. Tim's so skimmer and filter sock are off. There is a Cobalt MJ1200 that feeds the UV that goes into the BRS reactor. I know the ASM is old and crusty, but it's tried and true. When I added the salt, it already started collecting gunk. I guess inorganic fine particle schmutz from the reefsaver rock and the salt mix. The right side of the sump has my Eheim return and my Tunze Osmolator. I couldn't find a plastic ATO container that would fit the space, so I had to fork out for a 20H. I'm actually glad I did because it will be easy to clean, won't bow, etc. I won't be using the BRS dosing pumps for a while, but I wanted to install them from the beginning. The IKEA undercabinet LED lights are psychedelic and can turn different colors. Totally useless, but way cool.

Lookin' good! How did you fit this in your tank?

Panoramic shot of my recent work: Ikea cabinet for Apex Bean Animal to filtersock Aqua UV to BRS dual reactor ASM G3 Fuge BRS 1.1 dosers Eheim 1262 Tunze Osmolator Mixing stations More pix after dinner

I recently put two WP40's on my 6' 180 and it is plenty. I'm thinking two WP25's would be very nice, as Fishie commented.

When I graph with my Apex, after a couple of days, I seem to get corrupted data that plots points in the future. In the numerical data log, these ghost points do not exist. When I telnet and delete ALL the data, the problem goes away, but resurfaces in a couple of days. I upgraded to 4.3 hoping it would fix the problem, but no go. I was wondering if you Apex gurus had any thoughts before I contact Neptune. In this pic, you can see it automatically graphs from now until Jan 2015!!! Here are what the data points look like when zoomed in: When I move the mouse over these data points, they do not highlight for more info like real points do.

I second the special grade. I personally dislike sugar fine sand since it blows around so easily.

That's a great positive outlook. As I'm doing my build, I every once in a while think it's not if my tank will crash, but when. Gotta get out of that mode, lol.

Tagging along. I use B-Ionic for my nano, but now that I'm setting up a bigger tank, I was thinking of switching to BRS. Same question, reverse direction, so I would like to know the pros and cons.

Indeed, a great recovery. Thanks for sharing your story. Although painful, I'm sure it will help people (including myself) rethink their ATO/kalk systems and perhaps prevent mishaps.

Which GE silicone exactly? http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2069256 http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2199544

I've also always been worried about where the PVC at HomeDepot/Lowes has sat and what it's been exposed to - like sitting next to the fertilizer on the truck, etc. There always seems to be a powdery residue at the local HD and not the Lowes. I usually do a tap water leak test to flush things just in case.

I agree. Strange things are afoot. I've run cemented PVC after 24 hours (low pressure) without problems. But like Wade said, conditions can vary. Then again, if it smells... But I still think there is something else.

How long did you wait on the PVC?

Congrats on the new light. Did you use a pipe bender for the arm?

Crossing my fingers for you. Bulkhead leaks can be so unnerving!

Nice! Plumbing holes to be done later? (I know we talked about one for electrical.)