John

I have shrooms and GSP together...no issues...I'm sure it's something else...I agree it could be the new bulb...did you replace carbon/GFO when you changed your bulb? Possible hitch hiker from GSP frag? Check your Alk and Salinity.

Issac, FWIW, I placed it on the left pane closer to the front pane and about 1/3 from the top..The return is on the right side of the overflow so I wanted it opposite the return...if I run blue (short pulse) it will (hopefully) be the only powerhead in the tank. Short pulse gets great water movement all over...which is the objective... Currently, I am running reef crest powered @ three LEDs and have a Koralia nano on the back pane on the right side of the overflow to help water movement on other side of tank...If I increase the intensity on reef crest, the LPS get blasted, so not an option.

Rob/Issac, I agree, I liked blue mode (short pulse) the best...I got the LPS dancing in the current...Should I (we) be concerned about the rimless tank having a soft wave-like action? The water line deflection was 1/4" or 3/8" at best... NOTE: I contacted Deep Blue yesterday and before they would confirm/deny seam integrity they asked for the PSI values of the pump @ 18"...whatever that means, hopefully Ecotech will know what they are talking about Lagoonal mode (2nd yellow), Constant (green), and Long Pulse (pink) don't impress me, I was getting similar water movement with my $40 Koralia and controller.

HAHA, how ironic, I am in the same boat...spent half my day fiddling around with this stupid pump...

Cool, got the wetside oriented...yay...I've been playing with modes for a few hours...I like the short pulse mode to make a wave-like motion, but since its a rimless tank I'm concerned about stressing the tank...Is that a valid concern? The tank does have a bottom brace and constructed with 1/2" glass...the water deflection at the water line can't be more than 1/4" or 3/8"...undecided...I do like reef crest...long pulse is okay too, lagoon mode is similar to what I was running before with my Koralia, so I'm not impressed with that one.

Cool, Thanks I figure I'll be tweaking this thing for awhile...

So you place the solid side facing the area you want less flow?

Light bulb just went off...most likely to prevent a vortex if placed near the water surface...i.e. sucking in air and creating air bubbles... I still wondering if it affects the flow...anyone have any insight to that?

Hey Hey, I got this thing wet, but now I have a silly question...regarding the wet side, is the solid part supposed to be on top, bottom, side? Does changing the orientation of the solid section of the wet side affect the flow at all?

If it ain't broke, don't fix it...

What are you trying to gain by combining them?

What happens in the event of a power failure? Skimmer floods

Yeah, Digital Aquatics here...not Neptune... I just spoke with Ecotech and he said the internal memory is about one week with no power, so I guess it'll come down to playing with the feed cycle versus my current practice using the controller. He also confirmed the importance of securing the cord in case the magnetic field is ever broken... It would be nice if they put a keyhole in the back of the driver so you can hang it...velco is not an option...agrr...oh well, I'll get some shop time this weekend to make a bracket for this thing... The things you learn about a product after you buy it...

Great, now I have some insight... Second question, if this thing loses power, will it remember the programming? For instance, I'd like to continue to use my controller for feed mode (shuts off the powerhead channel/s), but if it doesn't remember the programming then I'll have to switch to using the feed mode on the powerhead...

The Vortech manual states to position the dry side such that the cord is facing up (12 o' clock). I did a quick Google search and it appears the only explanation for this configuration is to prevent the dry side from falling (assuming you actually secure the cord). So, before I install this thing how often should I expect the dry side to fall, never right? Also, do you have your dry side positioned such that the cord is @ 6 o'clock or 9 o' clock? Thanks!

I agree, looks awesome!

Yeah, I always let my run for a few minutes before I start collecting. Are you measuring TDS before DI or after DI?

+1

I check it every time I use it...it stays true for months, but every once in awhile it needs to be adjusted. Swing by F&F, they will probably calibrate it for you...they also sell calibration fluid...

I run it in a bag and change it every month.

Good analogy!

Because people in the know should have communicated in advance...12 hour warning to petition is a little late in my book...

This is interesting, never had a problem with my blue leg hermits...I love them...especially if you are lucky enough to witness them jump to a new shell...cool sight to see...

Changing light / lighting on corals is always something you want to err on the side of caution. When purchasing coral you should always take notice of what lighting and placement the coral came from, whether it be from a LFS or from someone's tank. Thus, when you introduce that coral into your tank you can place appropriately to give that coral time to adjust to your lighting; it may be a temporary placement, but that is okay! For example, if you buy an SPS frag from LFS under T5, don't place it high under your MH...place it lower in the tank and slowly move it to where you envisioned it to be. Of course, this is part of a healthy acclimation process, temp, salinity, pH, etc, etc That being said, changing your light source should not be hard on the coral, the goal is to make the transition slowly. This is the first time I have ever changed my light source on an established system, so I am learning the process myself. I am not intimated by it, I just don't want to bleach my coral. So, when I say your tank is young, I am essentially saying that your potential causality risk is lower. Of course, I don't want to see any coral die, but I rather see a frag die than a colony if given the choice...