BrendanG

That Maxspect Razor, does look really clean over most nano's....(is it dimmable? will I risk bleaching corals with it) The Par 38/Par 30 are great options as well...( I've seen some units are dimmable) I'll prob ditch the ecoexotic stunners...They just sit atop the tank, and take away from the display.

I currently have (2) 6w stunner strips with reflectors (16) 445nm Blue and (8) Magenta per strip lying around. I've been contemplating purchasing possibly 1 or 2 additional stunner strips to supplement White Light Perhaps a (18) 8,000k White and (6) 453nm Blue how important is providing UV spectrum for corals? Would It be Wise to purchase a 403nm UV Stunner Strip? My other options would most likely be a Dimmable PAR38 or PAR30...12"+ Hanging Height... Thoughts?

How would you light a PicoAquarium 15x15x8 Looking to Keep Ricordea, Zoanthids, Blasto's, Acans, and Rock Flower Anemones. What fixture would YOU, put over such a tank?

Great meeting you today, the Zoas look great! Thanks for coming out! oh... and your tanks nice too.

I've been debating LED vs. MH lighting options for my New Manta Ray 15. Research, and some personal experience seems to suggest that Zoas do very well under intense Metal Halide Lighting. I'm now looking into purchasing either a 150w or 70w Sunpod. I will primarily be keeping zoanthids, maxi and rock anemone's. My past zoanthid dominated tank was a Aquapod 12, lit by a 150w Sunpod. (16.5"L X 12"W X 13.75"H.) The legs are 2.5" tall [/img] I'm curious about the shallow tank depth of the Manta Ray (15x15x9) and Metal Halide Overkill, but as evidenced by my previous tank, the zoa's seem to be relatively unaffected by the light intensity? I'm looking for a little bit of insight, personal obeservations and reccomendations, regarding my lighting options. I want good growth, good color, and have a preference for 150w Pheonix 14k Bulbs. Would You go with the 150w or 70w Based on the pictures and your experience with zoa's, and their light tolerance/adaptability? Heat and evaporation issues aside...

In the process of upgrading tanks, and going from a 10x10x10 cube to a PicoAquariums Manta Ray 15 (15x15x9) I'm in need of lighting advice, and am extremely cautious. I've bleached an entire ricordea collection by underestimating the power of LED's in about a week. I'm trying to make sure I don't make the same mistake. I'd like to keep zoas, rics, lps, rock anemone's, a clam and maybe some SPS down the line All representing a variety of lighting requirements/tolerances. After debating between LEDTRiC's Tru Pop Par38, and its fan boys praising its sheer brightness and color and Orphek's claim about Photosynthetic Usable Radiation, and its dimming capabilities I think I'm sold on Orphek. I'd like to avoid the stadium lighting experience and crazy light spill from the LEDTRiC at my work desk. (Most people seem to be hanging them 12-18" above their pico/nano) Does anyone have experience with Orphek Lights? Will a Par30 or Par38, be better suited towards my aquarium inhabitants lighting requirements, and my personal preferences? Orpheks claim: http://orphek.com/led/2011/09/pur-photosynthetically-useable-radiation/

whats the back wall made of? Touch and Foam??? looks great!

Looking to add 3 fish to my 12 gallon... uhuo----maybe I'm pushing my limits... fully cycled, I'd say established, however I just LOST my candy hogfish..disappeared... and in a reef, I highly doubt he'll ever be recovered... between the peppermint shrimp, 5 blueleg hermits, emrald crab, huge hitchkier gorilla crab, and tons of bristleworms, after 5 days of disappearance, doub't he'll come back... So, I'm looking for stocking suggestions, Zoa Dominate Tank, a few clams, rose bubbletip, primairly a softie reef I'm religious on my wc's, (bi weekly 2g) as I try to promote tank stability. Fish I'm looking for? Really into color balance, and fish activity on all levels BUT I also want fish that arn't overly kept...six lines, royal grammas, you get the picture Any Ideas as to what Fish Could fit the bill? I've been a fan of dwarf angels, and have kept a Flameback for quite some time in the 12g looking to have a PYGMY again any ideas, comments as to what to pair it with?

I've kept Multiple BTA's in your exact set up , 10gallon aquarium with a 20" Coralife 1x96w PC fixture. Your anemone will have more than adequate lighting requirements, but as other members have brought up before, keep close tabs on your water quality, and you should be just fine!

I've had it happen on occasion, where some colonies tend to die back, while others thrive. Your water parameters may be on point, tank may be pest free, lighting and water circulation are dead on, but there are aspects of the hobby that are a mystery. My experiences with zoa melting are rather infrequent, but something that the majority of zoa enthusiasts may have experienced at one point or time in the hobby. a few RC members mention that could be an infection within the mat itself, and advise periodic "blowing" with a powerhead to remove any dead spots, due to detritus sitting for a long period of time, could possibly help the situation. Having talked to my dad, who knows nothing about reef husbandry, he had mentioned that it could simply be part of their "life cycle". I've often had one or two polyps hold on, and keep the colony going. I know its not quite the help that your looking for, but it seems there isn't much of an answer to confront the mysteries of zoanthids melting. Freshwater dips, Coral Revive, Nutrient Rich water, Dosing buffered vitamin C or iodine and magnesium; and supplemental feedings do little to curb the process. I'm kind of under the impression that its natural selection. I hope more studies are conducted on it, and Coral Hind does have a point, things kinda just "don't happen" there is almost always an underlying cause. Stay strong, the majority of your colonies will!

as cool as it is... I'm sure his bite is shocking! (I couldn't resist)

Try feeding sushi roe, (Typically flounder or salmon) I've generally had very good luck with that. Highly nutritious, and you'll get some weight on that mandarin quite quickly. You'll be able to find it most Asian markets. Be sure to get it in water, not vinegar. Ovamar which I think is Oystereggs, is also taken readily. if your worried about other fish, use a small baby jar, empty the food in there, and scoot that mandarin in there...Eventually they'll associate it with food, and you'll be set! Melev has had great success with this method, and it's worked for me

It's disheartening to run to the LFS and find emaciated dragonettes in bare 10 gallon tanks, and few employees that take the extra initiative to feed a variety of foods to encourage feeding, luckily those days are numbered, and one of the hobbies favorite fish, is finally being captive bred! For many years marine aquarium hobbyists have been captivated by the exquisite beauty of Mandarin Gobies (actually Dragonettes). Their popularity, however, is tempered by the fact that they are difficult to feed in captivity and are subject to questionable collection practices in the wild. Unfortunately, most Mandarins succumb to starvation in home aquariums, even with the best intentions and attempts at feeding. Thankfully, all of that is about to change. ORA biologists have succeeded in developing the methods needed to breed and raise commercial numbers of the two species of Mandarins, the Blue Mandarin (Synchiropus splendidus) and the Spotted Mandarin (Synchiropus picturatus). Building on the early success of breeders such as Julian Sprung, Wolfgang Mai, and more recently Matt Wittenrich, ORA is now poised to have commercially bred Mandarins available to everyone. The significance of this cannot be understated as it is a major advance in marine aquaculture and solves many of the problems associated with keeping these species. Just as the first captive bred Seahorses were trained to eat frozen foods, ORA has already trained our baby Mandarins to eat commercially available frozen diets. This fact alone makes them easy to feed and care for, and the average aquarist will delight in not having to worry about sources of live food for their finicky eaters. Our goal is to have them soon weaned onto a pellet diet. We expect to have these fish eating pelletized foods before being released for sale. ORA is the leader in bringing the marine aquarium industry new and exciting aquacultured species. With the addition of Mandarins to our ever-growing list, a major milestone in aquaculture has been achieved. We are sure that our retail customers and hobbyists alike will be elated that captive raised Mandarins are finally available and that a page has been turned in the tragic history of this beloved aquarium fish. We expect to have significant numbers of Spotted Mandarins available this summer. Blue and Red Mandarins will be available in more limited quantities around the same time. (Courtesy of Reefbuilders)

lets see some Macro Shots!

I've simply found it interesting with many websites, and even a few die hard zoa fans on reef central that speak on the importance of supplemental feeding of zoanthids. Almost as if they treat their zoanthids like their cnidarian cousin, the larger single polyp anemone's. The thought being that nearly all zooanthids rely on particulate food and plankton capture to sustain their metabolism. Could this possibly relate to their success in less than optimal water conditions, low lighting requirements, and even the possible demise in sterile tanks? (ie. after heavy carbon use ect) I've only fed Microvore Microdiet by Brightwell Aquatics, and have noticed, as mentioned above, that some zoa's demonstrate a feeding response while others do not. I guess a better question which would be the best "particular" sized food. Cyclopeeze and Oyster Eggs seem to be a coral staple.

Wow you guys feed a TON! any thoughts on feeding zoanthids? you guys with mixed reefs, have you noticed any feeding response from zoas?

Gorgeous Pair, and best of luck with the raising of fry! I believe there was a very informative article on broodstock conditioning written by that guy on RC with the 35 year old reef, (didn't he guest speak at a WAMAS function recently???) about the importance of incorporating fish oil in the diet of captive fish, and how its essentially missing from our inhabitants diets. Think he simply added the oil to the food, let it soak overnight for max absorption, and fed to his fish. I actually have a client who has begun doing the same thing, and has noticed a significant amount of "healthy" weight gain, and increased activity...Most notably, His tangs though very healthy weight wise, are beginning to resemble wild stock, in terms of girth ect, since the addition of fish oil to their primary flake and pellet diet. Please keep us informed as to the Pair's Progress!!! You have all the support and expertise you need to make it work...

Well, its time to upgrade my current lighting on my 12g aquapod...(Going on 9 months or so and Diatoms are showing up) Currently using a 150w Pheonix 14k, in a Current USA Sunpod, Love the color, researched with good PAR rating ect, but Its on to a Bluer Bulb! What are my best options taking into consideration: Growth Rates Color PAR ratings? A few pic after about 2 months of burn time I've heard that some XM bulbs arn't fitting in the Sunpod Fixtures? What would be my best choice when it comes to Choosing a 20k Bulb?

Well if it can be toned down to 200gph... and my K-NANO puts out 240... El Camaron- how do you determine the gph when turning down the flow? do you simply estimate? I've just never used one of these

Wow, you've been doing some SERIOUS work, you've done a wonderful job I'm really Glad to see captive aquaculture at work (or at play) in my own neighborhood!

I'm terribly sorry to hear about you loss, luckily you have the love and support of your community, especially WAMAS. Stay strong, keep a head about you. You'll be surprised how everything plays out. Do you have a place to stay in the meantime? Essential items ect? I'd be happy to lend a hand. When you get settled enough to start the tank up again, let me know, I'd be happy to donate a few things to get it up and running! A frag or two bring a smile to just about anyone!

Its a Current USA 12 Gallon Aquapod The only space where I could see Cutting a part of my back wall would be in the first chamber (Wiers) and thats where I happen to keep all My Carbon El Camaron! anything I need to know before I undergo a possible purchase? I've skimmed over the PDF start up guide, is it relatively user friendly? I'm assuming I'd use it on the Lower Scale of he Lagoon Setting, Random Flow. How much can I really tone this bad boy down, 12g is Preeeeeetttyyyy small for a pump that can put out 1575gph... I don't want a Tsunami!!!

Glad to hear your ready to pick up the hobby again... Its fun and rewarding, but the revival of an old tank may cause even more patience on your end, than an initial set up. Normally you can keep all your Live Rock, Live Sand, but my primary concern would be your initial cycle and the length of time you'll have to wait for levels to become safe. You kept your Rock and Sand in a tank full of die off /neglected tank water, later drained, and dried it. Leaving all the decaying matter, die off, toxins, nitrates ammonia, ect, embedded deep in your rock and sand. Upon initial revival, keeping old sand and rock, I'd expect an EXTRA long cycle, and algal blooms for months to come. By all means your welcome to keep you Live Rock and Sand, I'd simply advise against it. Pull it all and start from scratch. If you do decide to keep it, I'd think definitely seeding it, maybe even heavily will be a requirement for initial success and ease of cycling. I would expect a prolonged cycle, and intense spikes and blooms. Prepare for tons of heavy water changes, especially with a tank of 70gallons. My initial thought would be to toss it and Start from scratch. I'd think picking up where you left off will cause more headache. Review your equipment carefully, Skimmer, Use of a Sump, and Plan and research purchases. Do you have an Idea as to what direction to take this new tank of yours? The requirements for a Reef Tank, vs A FOWLER are different, and the husbandry equipment has evolved drastically over the past 2 years. Ha welcome back, get ready for the adventure

Well, I'm about to undergo the process of updating, upgrading, improving; (whatever you want to call it) my 12gallon Nano. All reefkeepers are familiar with this aspect of the hobby. After a 2 day power outage in my neighborhood during the Epic Snowstorm, I've slowly begun replacing many of my colonies that melted due to the big freeze, and now its on to the equipment. I'm suffering from Deadspots... Deadspots in a 12 Gallon Aquarium Deadspots in a 12 Gallon Aquarium with a back Wall loaded with rockwork, and a keeper whose anal about excess equipment in the tank I hate seeing my K Nano - still trying to get over it Its a Zoanthid dominate tank, relatively low flow, but I'm tired of detritus settling on sections of my sand bed. I'm Running a K nano 240gph? and a Maxijet 900 Return. Recommendations? Is an MP10 the best course of action? Ive never used one, any recommendations? things I should know before hand? any necessary attachments, requirements ect? A Maxi Jet 1200 is definitely needed (anyone have one) For the Price, is the MP10 Worth it? A K1 is Large and Bulky in a 12g Tank Am I better off adding a second K Nano? or does it sound like I need to bite the Bullet Is there Rumors of a New K Series coming out???

have you tried upping your mag levels to 1500? Most swear by Kent Tech M. When you raise your mag levels, Hair Algae turns yellow, then brown, and just receeds to the point that it just dies off. Remove any excess with your siphon, and you'll be hair algae free. You have a beautiful tank, Keep us posted, it should look great when that Hair Algae is gone There are multiple threads on RC concerning increasing your mag levels with out harmful effects. Good Luck Thats a huge Rabbitfish!