DaveS

Dave, I have no answers to your questions. However if you find a local source or order online, LMK- I need some too! Thanks.

I'm ok with the grease pencils but if you don't like that, my suggestion: Just move the boards next to where the corals are. That and keeping them updated would address most of the issues. All that fancy computer stuff will cost more and take more time/effort to maintain and update. Right now, if a coral gets put on sale, Sean can just write "20% off" on the tag. Anything that makes it easier for Sean to discount the corals is a good thing.

Me too!

Sometimes when I frag my zoas/palys I get bad frags. They get this layer of white stuff over them and the polyps eventually die. Here's a pic from a batch: Now I'm pretty sure it's not the coral as the colony is perfectly healthy. Also, some of the frags make it so it's not like all the frags do this one time while they all survive another time. Anyone know the answer to what I'm doing wrong? I think I have an idea but not quite sure of it yet and wanted to hear other thoughts on this. Thanks.

Depending on date/time, I'd be willing to come over and help. I'm in Tyson's so pretty close by.

I have the same set up as you and no access to the outside to vent the air. Here's what I've done so far: 1) Replaced the vent hole grille with a room-room exhaust fan: mcmaster.com item# 1895K11. This has allowed me to vent air out of the closet. You can install a door vent too if you have a door to the room that needs to remain closed. 2) In the summer, open up an AC vent into the fish/HVAC room. I used to run a fan across the water which definitely helped cool the tank but I also noticed a significant increase in humidity in the entire basement level. My next step is to run a duct from the sump to my HVAC return. It won't be close enough to pull in salt spray but will be close enough to pull in moisture and evaporate water to help cooling. I might use the fan across the top of the tank again and just have the duct nearby to suck in that air. The idea is to have my AC pull in the moist air from that room and condense it along with the general humid summer air. In the winter time, the moisture will help humidify the dry winter air for the whole house.

Question, with only one hole being used as a drain in each overflow, is there a risk that bad things will happen if that drain gets clogged?

Yea I think I'm kind of with you. I'm not sure I need to know 1/10th dKh or down to 5mg/L. I'm pretty much just looking for a kit that tells me if I need to add more additives to get to a reasonable range. I've been using the cheapo Aquarium Pharmaceuticals kits too and it seems to work out ok. If anyone has a good reason for needing the kind of resolution the more expensive kits offer, I'd be open to that.

looking to get Ca and Alk test kits. I'd prefer ones that are easy to use and read. What's good these days? Is Sailfert reliable again? It's probably a little more complicated than I'd like but if it's good than I'll live with it... Thanks.

Get a trash bag that is the same size as or bigger than the container. For example, if you have a 30G brute trash can, get a 30G Glad plastic bag like normal people would use for a trash can. Put the trash bag in the trash can. Pour your water in, including whatever else- rocks, animals, etc. Close the trash bag up and tie a knot. The trash bag is your vessel, the can is just there for structural support and to prevent holes. I do this all the time with coolers, trash cans, heck you can even make a duffel bag into a water container if you wanted...

Yeah if you factor in the travel time and expense to find whale sharks, $290 is cheap. I just got back from South Africa to hang out with some wild life. That's me in the cage with my hands up...