bigJPDC
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Everything posted by bigJPDC
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LOVE that red cap in the center!!!
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Best way to get rid of micro bubbles ?
bigJPDC replied to Nitro Junkie's topic in General Discussion
Welllll . . . . they start leeching back nitrates after 5-7 days . . . and the live rock and dsb in the tank is what provides us those good bacteria, plus a way to remove the nitrate they then produce . . . In any event, a long term approach would be to establish plumbing and flow that minimizes the bubbles to a point where they are gone or don't bother you, not changing out, bleaching and Genesissing sponges on a regular basis. I tried it and spent close to $30 on sponges from LFS's with the same advice, which have now been trashed, and didn't help my bubble issues anyway. See what happens first by dialing back your flow or using a smaller pump, then attack the way the water gets into your sump and to the return pump. Plus remember that as your slime coat develops on the plumbing, water slips through more and bubbles and noise are reduced. I spent a lot of time on this part of my tank build, and would be happy to help out. HTH, jp -
Best way to get rid of micro bubbles ?
bigJPDC replied to Nitro Junkie's topic in General Discussion
Have you tried reducing the flow in your return plumbing? Dial it back a-ways and see what happens. Adding sponges to your system will also be adding more nitrate sinks. jp -
i just want to watch the video. How much momentum could a 90gal in a shopping cart build up going down a medium grade hill? I keep thinking about a boxfish-cam on Dandy's bowfront while it rolls . . .
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Great feedback here guys. I chopped down a coupler and lowered my eductor an inch or so under the water, so I now have a direct bead on some SPS I have in the center of the tank. I had to epoxy one milli frag down as it was getting blown out of its hole. The periscope thing is hilarious as it moves back and forth on the SeaSwirl. I have cranked up my return now that the surface isn't as agitated and the fish love to swim in front of the eductor and ride the waves. Yeah it's somewhat obtrusive, but not any moreso than powerheads, maximods or locline is either IMHO. There is a major dead spot immediately below and behind the eductor - the right thing to do here would be to have two of these at opposite ends, sides or corners of the tank, oscillating back and forth. My 3' tank is too small for two of them, but I could see that working for a 5-6' tank. No need for a SCWD or timer, the randomness of the SS, especially when their flows hit each other in the middle would provide that motion. Now I just gotta finish my basement so I can build out that 4' cube and prove this works on a larger scale. jp
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Is this tank set up already? Drilled? Do you have a sump? Is 'a variety of corals' a few SPS, with LPS and zoas sprinkled around? How about an eductor on your return plumbing and a closed loop and SeaSwirls = no powerheads? jp
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rascal - do those zoas open up?
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I totally bought into that article, and I periodically would soak mine in fw. I was blown away when Doug showed me how much it was off by, and my new refracto matches his readings. I'll play with that swingarm and see if I can perform some kind of voodoo on it to get it to match the refracto. Other than cost, there isn't any other redeeming quality for the swingarm - the refracto is way easier and less messy to use. jp
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I got this guy, seems to be a bare bones instrument but feels solid and was calibrated out of the box. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod...p;N=2004+113761 $44.99 jp
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you guys ROCK! I will stay the course. The main tank is 65g. The 10g nano was up around 1.030, and only by taking an 8 oz cupful out a day, plus a 1g water change I now have it to 1.026. What the heck was I thinking with that swingarm? Nice to know I'll be using less salt now too. The refracto will pay for itself over time. thank you and have an awesome weekend! jp
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Hello! Dbartco has shown me the error of my swingarm ways, and now that I am armed and deadly with the refracto, I am trying to figure out how to get my main tank down to 1.025-ish, from the 1.027-ish it is currently at. What I've tried is to remove one gallon of tank water and let the ATO fill it back with RO\DI. I've done that three times in the past week now and my salinity is still right at 1.027-ish. Is that not supposed to work? I know that just adding RO shouldn't do anything, but I thought I was replacing sw with RO, and that should lower the SG. Should I be doing one gallon water changes with 1.023-ish sw? Any advice is helpful, thanks! Of course nothing is wrong in the tank, but I need to fix it anyway. jp
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http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/19743665/
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davelin315's 300 Gallon In Wall Reef Tank
bigJPDC replied to davelin315's topic in Dedicated Tank (Build) Forum
It might be an optical illusion, I thought so too at first, but the top is clearly twisted. -
Hamilton here - 9 miles to Home Depot and two, count 'em two ABC stores. Also close enough to hit either Aquatic World or F&F if I need anything. I used to live 40 miles outside of Manhattan and thought that was a quick trip into the City. jp
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Beautiful!! Also, and awesome post there Rascal - reminds me of the Letterman "Well, I've never seen your show, but I know 60% of it is crap" comment. Like shooting fish in a barrel. jp
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Submitter: BigJPDC Location: BigJPDC's tank in Mrs. BigJPDC's Living Room Camera Used: Pentax Optio S5i Subject: Frogspawn under T5 actinic.
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Thanks copps! Just wanted to make sure. That's my kind of action. jp
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I realized I should have asked how much these will be selling for.
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Sounds like the way to go is to monthly prune the macro and dump the water, rinsing with RO. I would think that plenty of pods would be trapped in the chaeto, so it's not like I'd be erasing the population. A pad would just become a nitrate sink, so that option is out. Excellent advice - thank you! jp
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The AC70 with chaeto and a clamp on HD light is all I have for filtration and flow in my 10g, and it's been great so far. Nitrates went from 30 to 0 in three weeks. One thing I noticed over the weekend is that when I pruned the chaeto and cranked the AC70 back on, I got a snowglobe of organics in the tank. It makes sense since the chaeto is acting like filter floss, trapping the organics which is then used as food in the fuge. I don't know how I would remedy that situation becuase if I changed the water out I think I would be dumping pods. SugarMag - do you see the same thing? jp
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Awesome posts Rio and Aquaria. I heard RFK Jr going nuts at one of the LE concerts about conservative radio hosts and big corporations, but I have a feeling he'd give the same speech anywhere.
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I guess you will have to experiement then, it could even be the placement of the bulbs and how they reflect off your rockwork. I know that I don't like the way it looks when the AB+ bulbs are on the outside - I find it to be bluer when they are on the inside. Take those middle bulbs out and run only the inside four - A+, AB, AB, A+ - see how you like it and go up from there.
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Genius Rio, I like that. When you have two bulbs on, where are they - the two in the middle, outside? jp
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what happens if you remove the 3000K and the 10000K in the middle? I tried a 6500 once and hated it. It looks like a good mix 4:4 of actinic and non-actinic, but the 3000 and 10000 are making it too bright for you. Heading more towards 2:1 actinic\AB+ may be what you are looking for. On my 10g I have 2A+ and one AB. I have a 4x39 T5 rig over my 65g and I go Actinic+ AB+ 12000K AB+ 12000K Actinic+ Two ballasts, only run all four about 5 hours during the day, the rest of the time it's A+ only, which is nice and blue like I like it. If you get good growth with those bulbs you could just suck it up for a couple hours a day and then leave it actinic only before and after. HTH, jp