Scott_LM

I have a very week culture of rotifers going. You are welcome to a cup to get you started.

I experienced the same problem. I have a 120 with 2x250(20k) MH and PCs attached to a 29g sump and 30 breeder refugium/frag tank. I experience little to no algae growth in the display but I get the same "jelly" type algae in the breeder that is lit by a D120. I have very a few red and green in my layout. I get great growth from the corals, but also the Dinos or whatever it is grows very well too. I have just been siphoning it out when it gets bad. My Nitrates and Phosphates measure near 0 for what it's worth. I also have an ATS that grows algae very well, obviously the reason for the 0 readings.

I have seen it at either HD or Lowes, It was not out in the open, but on a roll high overhead.

Did you remove/ replace the pane or just redo the corner bead? The corner bead is primarily to protect the bead between the panes and for aesthetics.

It is a whelk (sp?). I haven't seen a black one before, but mine are harmless. They are a good part of your CUC (clean up crew).

That is one H-E-double hockey sticks of a tank David! Do you have any chronological pics of the tanks you've had over the years? I still remember the 125 from Base housing. It would be interesting to see how people progress over the years.

Yes and it is a common practice to remove them when the male doesn't hold them to term. You can make a tumbler out of some clear tubing and an air pump/airline. Check out reefcentral for threads on how to do this.

I have nanno that seems to be bulletproof. Not one bottle has crashed on me yet, other than getting contaminated by rotifers. Let me know if you are interested. On a side note, what temp are you keeping the copepods from the bay at? I have thought of trying the same thing, but figured they were temperate. Also what salinity? -Scott

Important to note that a 15Amp breaker is rated for a total of 15X110 (or 120) = 1650Watts, but code only allows for a 80% usage rate. IE you shouldn't have a consistent load of more than 1320 watts. f you push the limit you will get nuisance trips which are bound to happen after you leave for a long weekend.

I would check the hole drilled in the cap. It sounds like your return is siphoning. Even if partially blocked a siphon can still be created. Do the days that it happens coincide with cleaning the pump?

Take a bunch of 1/2" pieces of PVC and put caps on one end. Make them into a pyramid shape horizontally. Place them near the home or as close as you can get and hopefully he will adopt it. Once he is in there place a net over the front and pull him out. Orchids can be aggressive, but it is normally only to fish of similar body shape. Odd that it would attack a tang. Good luck either way.

The sale is for their Aqueon(Sp?) brand. It is usually only good for 10, 20,40 and 55 gallon tanks. At least that is what they seem to have in stock at my petco.

We have them here in the Chesapeake. They call them Sea robins. Cool fish, don't believe they "fly". I believe they are bethnic.

The flow needs to be near zero in the tank. A airpump with a valve putting out a couple bubbles a second is all you need. A heater too, unless the room can compensate for the the temp. These shrimp are very fragile!

Take a look at this book: http://www.amazon.co...ppermint shrimp It is a very quick read and informative. Rotifers are needed as a first food if I remember correctly. Peppermints are nice because they are one of few shrimp that have a short larval stage. If you need rotifers, let me know I have cultures running at home. You can borrow the book too, if I can find it. -Scott