AquariaUSA

We have a house in Columbia, MD and in Charlotte, NC... but I live on 95, 295, 495, 66, 85, and 77

Hi Gail, I think a few weeks ago someone got kalk in their eyes (ouch!!!) and posted it on the board. It is a caustic agent, so pretty dangerous to ingest, rub on your skin, etc. If you got a slight rise in the alkalinity and the calcium from a days use that is fine, just wondering why your pH readings were so low to begin with??? I think once you get ahold of the RAC (Reef Advantage Calcium) you might find raising both levels pretty easy. Add chemicals...wait at least 3-4 days to test, for it takes a few days to really show a correct reading/otherwise you will be overdosing. If you can't find RAC locally, send me an email for I am in VA on Tuesdays and Thursdays (it's cheap stuff, so I don't mind getting you a 250g for $5). On another note... true/effective quarantine processes should be far longer than a few days to a week. Reason? Any fish that is not DOA can hang in there for a few days swimming about a tank, eating a little, etc. Some think that if a fish does not have "ick" or visible signs of distress or disease that they must be "ok." However, after many years working with various retailers, a wholesaler/biologist, aquariums, and with our own client stock we really believe in full quarantine, so as not to infect a successful system with a new addition we have only had for a week. Those that put their fish through a serious quarantine process (not to knock MS, for they can't afford to go longer with fish I presume after Toms post, and most retailers won't even mention quarantine) will attest to this, especially with delicate species like wild caught Kauderns/Bengaii's. Like I mentioned before, if captive bred they are super hardy! but only a few places have them (ORA once in a blue moon, NAIB ~ but hard to get out of them, and some local hobbyists from here to PA/NY). Wild caught Bengaii's are a fish that we kept for not less than 5 weeks to ensure they would not drop dead in a clients tank soon after they were added. Seems like a heck of a long time, but they generally died off due to nutrition (could have been potassium cyanide), stress/ick, or from internal parasites (when scoped). This is one of the many reasons we have decided to forgo bringing them in wild caught, and if you really like them, wait till they are certified captive bred. Only problem here is the wild caught can be obtained for a very, very cheap price, while as the captive bred usually cost 3 to 4 times more than the wcs. Sad thing is I have seen them in retail shops (2 in NC, 1 in FL, and a few around here) for $25-50 and we were told they were wild caught (this is the price I would expect to see for captives). oh well! Don't forget about the corals Fish are great, show lots of movement, but if you take your time you will have the fish you choose after much thought for many years. Setting up a quarantine tank won't hurt either if you buy fish from retailers.

How fast are you dosing the kalkwasser solution? Sometimes if you go to fast it can really do some damage to your calcium, kh, and ph levels. Might want to try some of Seachem's Reef Advantage Calcium for it is a little easier to use and dose compared to kalkwasser, and is not a caustic agent. This product works good with their Reef Builder. As for the Bengaii do you know if it was a wild caught or tank bred specimen? Where did you get it? How long was it in the dealers tank (if they told ya)? The tank bred are generally tough as nails, the wild are fairly delicate (if they last past 2-3 months, you should have them for years).

Hi Baygl, Definitely start using the Seachem Reef Builder vs. the Marine Buffer (which is really for marine fish systems). What is your calcium level reading? pH titration kits are not the best out there, although the Salifert is pretty consistent. You can get a fair pH pen for under $30-40, although you will need to calibrate them frequently. If everything is doing well in your system, don't worry about the lower reading on the pH. Could be the kits, could be excess C02, etc. Be sure to cross check the pH with another kit or at a lfs. Testing before lights come on, and just after a full photoperiod should give you a pH range also. How many lbs. of rock (what type) do you have in the system? Refugium? Deep sand bed in main tank (what kind of substrate)?

For some reason we just left 3 generators in Charlotte, NC over the weekend (didn't think Isabel would get to far), but we bought another one at the Lowes in Laurel, MD. THey brought in 20 or so of the Coleman 5550s ($659), and had a line inside the store at 11PM. They were originally going to sell them at 6AM Tuesday morning, but people refused to leave the store I guess. When we left there were still 6 or so on the truck. I would call first, unless you don'd mind the drive. PennPlax makes a decent battery operated airpump ($12-20) that can run at least two airstones on D cells.

Hi Xeon, I would avoid the TF. I sold off a bunch of them a few years ago in Charlotte for they just did not compare to the downdrafts/becketts/etc. The solid PVC is also a pain to clean and work with. The AquaCs are the best out there (IMO) for they are so simple to operate, easy to maintain, and require lower volume pumps while producing the same or more effluent than its competitors. If the budget is out of range, you might want to just stick with a Berlin Classic (it is not the best, but will work fine on a tank under 75 gallons) for it has been the same design for several years. The turboflotor was an aquamedic copy of the berlin years ago, and there have been issues with the "needle wheel" impeller being hard to find, etc. MRC skimmers are super nice, but require massive pumps to operate efficiently. Keep looking around on ebay, reef central, etc. We have an MR-2 (uses Mag18) on Ebay now, and will be putting a lesser priced generic (ETSS copy before the patent suits) Downdraft (uses Mag5 or 7) on Ebay next week. I would spend the extra cash on the AquaC though (we have about 7 of them running our own systems, and about 20-25 on client tanks) for you will more than likely not upgrade later, unless you build a larger tank. Be sure to pick up good books too! And stay patient, for this will make your system more enjoyable, less expensive, and more successful

I just ordered a few more scwds for smaller systems, and was told it will be another few months for the larger model. The price is unbeatable, and so far everyone has had good luck with them! *I still like the seaswirls though, don't get me wrong

The turbelles are nice although pricey. However, if it were my choice I would go with a SeaSwirl for the concept has been consistent and has virtually no maintenance issues. Not sure if I would do the 1/2 versus the 3/4 or 1" but up to you You could also add a flare nozzle adapter to get more of a wave action. The SeaSwirls IMO have a much higher resale value as well.

If you don't get a chance to get the loc-lines let me know via email or pm. I always have 3/4 parts on hand, but rarely the 1/2, although I will try to order some in the next week or so to have around for local stuff. Thanks, Rich watson@aquariausa.com

Does this prohibit collecting mangrove seedlings in South Florida from Viscaya or around Biscayne Bay? I can do it during the twilight hours, but looks kinda funny running around with a bucket near all those couples hiding out in cars on the gravel drive. hehe

Hurry up on the order, not sure when Rocky is closing coralfragz

Hi Larry, If they come in this week, we should have a few Blue Tort frags 1.5-2". If I have time to come back to the boards I will post if they come in, otherwise email me. We are also having an open house this weekend for the CMAS tank tours :O) Tx, Rich watson@aquariausa.com

Try USplastics.com too.

Long ago I put a few old polyresin pieces in the fireplace :O)

Depends on the type of rock too If it does have lots of sponges, then keep it pretty wet or submersed. On an average install using Kaelini and Tonga Red Branch rock we cure for 3 weeks+, we pack the rock for transport covered in wet paper towels and it can usually go about 3-4 hours before coralline starts to die off. If you plan to be longer, just grab yourself a few sterlite containers from Target or Home Depot to keep pieces submerged (also helps to pick the perfect rock when building the structure). Not sure how many lbs. you are dealing with, but might want to have some cable ties and long nylon screws and drill bits handy As I sit here looking at the screen and a 7-8 year old flame angel eating an acro frag in my home "pet" tank, this all reminds me I too have to redo the rock structure after catching the two dwarf angels from the tank will require moving the rock! grrr. Makes me want to keep the tank SPS free, but then I would have to set up another sps tank if I don't get em out! "Honey, can I put a tank in your office?" hehe. Wanna help me when you are done with yours? JK, I know you won't want to see another piece of rock after redoing yours! Have fun though!

Hi JM, I have heard about IO salt having issues, but honestly we go through about 3-6 buckets of IO and TM per week in MD/DC/VA. The only issues I have noticed is that the calcium levels bounce back and forth from 280-360PPM with Instant Ocean using Salifert tests. We always run a 10-15 parameter test analysis on each bucket we open to ensure consistency, etc. I am guessing that ASys brought out the "Reef Crystals" line several years ago as an upgrade to IO and to compete with TM and HW. A while back I contacted Aquarium Systems about the calcium issue, and got the straight cookie cutter answer that their salts were perfect after letting them know we test them on a regular basis and noticed inconsistencies with IO. "The calcium levels for Instant Ocean and Reef Crystals dissolved in RO/DI (or any other form of calcium-free water) at the specific gravities specified would be: IO - at 1.022spgr = 343mg/l as Ca++, at 1.024spgr = 370mg/l; RC - at 1.022 = 377mg/l, at 1.024 = 407mg/l. Regarding the levels in tap water; there is simply too much variance in tap water supplies to give even approximate levels. If your local water supply has a level of calcium then that level (in mg/l as Ca++) would be added to the numbers I gave. Thank you, Bob Studt Technical Support Aquarium Systems, Inc./JungleTalk Int." Not sure if this was due to MarineLand (aka Aquaria Group) buying them out, or what but we also contacted Tropic Marin in Germany and got a faster response, although we had no issues with their salts. "the average levels of calcium in Tropic Marin salt-mix is at 380 ppm at a salinity of 35 %o which has a specific gravity of 1.0264. Kind regards, Dr. Biener GmbH Hans-Werner Balling" If you are looking for a higher quality salt, IMO use TM which frequently tests at or above 380PPM on calcium and is consistent on most other key te's. Otherwise IO when mixed properly should be ok for most softy, LPS, and hardy SPS systems. Some people like the BioAssay by Crystal Sea, but does not seem to be that much different than the original salt. Either way, I would keep a few hydrometers on hand, for I bet if you take three of em, you will get different readings. You can purchase an entry level refractometer for $59-79 depending on the brand, and they are far more accurate. Also be sure to mix your water in separate receptacles. After using tap or RO/DI we put the standard 2.5 cups into a 5 gallon bucket, pour in 2-3 quarts, heavy stir (shake), and then add the rest. No issues with cloudiness, etc. If you prefer to make in reservoir, just use a decent powerhead, and pour in salt slowly to dissolve faster. Hope things work out, but don't count on the salts being perfect, for they are not always as accurate as we would hope they proclaim they are on the retail packaging

AquariaUSA is not a local store :( We are a consulting, dev/install, and dedicated maintenance company with clients in a few SE states. The web you checked out is severely outdated, was only done on IE4 (no navigator access) and was ancient Flash work. We are in the process of launching the new site, but I have to finish the product pricing for an e-com area for clients, etc. Sorry you had to look at the old site, I have hated it for years CMAS is the Chesapeake Marine Aquarium Society (the brother/sister group to WAMAS, but based in the Baltimore area) and can be found on the web at www.cmas-md.org Many CMAS members are also WAMAS members, vice versa CMAS :D

Hi all, Not sure if everyone reads the CMAS boards, gets the emails, etc. but Tom and George from CMAS will be fragging some nice acroporids at Exotic Aquatics this evening from 7-9PM. The store is located off 695, Perring Parkway. They also had some killer SPS in last week, including a very nice purple Acropora Eflorescens at $250! With 4x180 gallon tanks plus several 50s loaded with corals, there is a decent bit of eye candy. Directions can be seen on their site www.exoticaquatics.com Hope to see some of ya there!

Hi Gav, Glad to hear you are getting tons of responses! I hate to hear that any of us are discouraged from trading/selling with LFS, but it is their call. So.... although we don't have $500-1000 to buy all the captive xenia we can get our hands on each month, I am willing to buy/trade/adopt what I can handle from those of you with captive bred xenias. I would rather drive to save the xenia from the toilet or trash can, than order them in from a coral supplier considering they are so easily bred in captivity. We always try to use as many captive bred species as we possibly can for clients who enjoy soft coral "movement" tanks, and most of the time give them xenia if we are overstocked. Many thanks to Eve in Gaithersburg for the recent xenia "weed" donation, we owe ya! Rich and Flor AquariaUSA sales@aquariausa.com

Sorry to hear about how you were treated! I think all of us at one point or another have felt great about a personal aquarist success, only to be "snobbed" by an advanced hobbyist or LFS employee. 10+ years ago keeping SPS corals for extended periods of time was something unheard of, now there are thousands of highly successful captive systems across the US. Heck, I have seen at least 15 incredible systems locally over the past two or three months! Even the most advanced keepers today run into system crashes, some hang in there, some jump ship, and the best ones are willing to teach and help newcomers. Many of these people can be found in WAMAS and CMAS, but sometimes the LFS can be a bit harder for they are primarily concerned about the bottom line. As for your propagation of Xenia, congrats! It is always a great thing to read about a hobbyist witnessing captive propagation, versus a LFS having a wild colony die off in their holding systems. Although most Xenia species are considered easy to propagate like those have said above (give them decent water, current, ambient light, and they spread like wildfire) stores are reliant upon most being shipped in captive bred or from a "select" local supplier. Talking about what is in the backroom only goes so far...why brag about something the general public cannot see or buy? Why all LFS don't set up small "locally grown" propagated systems is a mystery, for wild colonies of Xenia are not the best shippers versus captive. If they pay a local customer $5 for a healthy stalk, mark it up to $15+ for new hobbyists to buy/try, they have made $10 for almost no work (no trips to the airport, no freight, no worry from dieoff if from a reputable supplier, etc.), and all the better if the captive xenia move fast (which they usually do). Don't choke on this one...but I have actually heard and seen retailers in a few places buy captive xenia for $2-5 and resell them the same day for $20-35!!! If a store orders 50 or so corals from a supplier, you can bet that after they pay the freight, send an employee to pickup the order, pay for gas (+ vehicle insurance), they average at least $3-5 per coral...thus buying from local suppliers is not only smart, but one of the better business practices considering all the store has to do is supply the square footage, electricity and the products for you to buy with the store credit. Thus a $5-25 store credit turns right back into additional profits ($10 for each xenid they sell, plus the markup you pay when you buy dry or livegoods!!!) Perhaps it was a bad day at the LFS, or the employee missed their lunch break, but if they care about their clients/customers (who pay their salary) you would have been treated better. I won't get into who pays what from what supplier for corals, but there is no reason you should not be able to get $5 or so for 1-3 full (1"+) polyps of Xenia if properly setup from the start. The silver tips and some of the others can command even more. Now if the stores you went to have several already in stock, perhaps it may have been best to call ahead and ask if they can take in more. Better yet, they could have taken your info for when they run out. The next coral you may want to look at for captive propagation and selling to LFS are Montipora digitata, Montipora capricornus, and the Pocillaporids. These are usually hardier SPS corals which can get you $5-15 depending on species/coloration, but only after arranging this ahead of time with the LFS. Be sure if you go this route, you are careful to avoid/eliminate natural predators, etc. Hopefully this helps you understand a little more what can be involved, and don't forget you always have other members to trade/sell/buy with! If you have not picked up Anthony Calfo's Coral Propagation book, it may have some great info in there for ya! Goodluck, and thank you for propagating corals (even if it's xenia!) at home! Rich y Flor

Guys be careful with the new stuff. I have heard there are two bags out there now to replace the old Southdown. One has a ton of limestone and metals in it from what I have heard/read.

Hi Sam, Glad that you looked into aquarium societies (AS) as well as the local retailer (LFS). If you are able to get fish from someone in the club, ask for the ten gallons of water too! Tank cycling can be a nasty process, so it is somewhat easier if you are able to transport the entire system : water, some live sand to mix with sterile aragonite, rock, etc. in under 2-3 hours. If you want to go the natural "cycling" route, just be very cautious and avoid getting over excited to add fish as mentioned in the above threads. Also by getting help from some of the very generous and respectable members in the club (the guys/gals above), you should be able to upsize your aquarium to perhaps a 20L or a 30L, maybe even a 30B which should be much easier for you to maintain as a newbie. Not sure what the tank prices are down there, but most retailers in the Baltimore area sell them for the following (tank & plastic hood w/ fluorescent light): 10Gallon Black Combo $34 20L Black Combo $59 30L Black Combo $83 As for books, I would like to add two more to the list: Scott Michael's "Marine Fishes" $20-30 Fossa & Nilsens "Reef Secrets" $30-40 I hope your new hobby is tons of fun, and sustainable to both the environment and your allowance! :O) Rich y Flor

Hi WAMAS! Although I do not think we have sold any of the members Tetra products, if we have feel free to provide invoice # for recall. The letter below has been sent out to our client base and was also posted on ReefCentral.com. "This is a letter we have prepared and are still sending to our base of over 250 clients (service, consulting, install, and brief retail).... Dear (client name here) Recently, we have received notice that a major aquarium product manufacturer (TetraUSA) had appeared on national television to promote their line of products in lieu of the recent Disney/Pixar motion picture release of "Finding Nemo." During a mini-segment on television, a representative from the above mentioned company proceeded to tell viewers how easy and affordable it could be to maintain the actual saltwater fish which the movie characters were based on. The rep displayed a 5 gallon mini-bow tank that could be purchased for $50 at most retailers, a few of her companies products (which were actually for freshwater applications), a Blue Hippo Tang ; 2x Clownfish ; 2x Seahorses; and a common starfish. There was no mention of the environment needing a salt mix, hydrometer, or the necessary equipment and requirements to maintain the organisms properly. Some of our customers have deemed this an unfortunate excuse for the company to grow profits on the un-expecting public by proclaiming how easy it is to maintain precious (mainly wild-caught) saltwater fish and invertebrates. As a company, we agree wholeheartedly with our client base, and are outraged with this stunt pulled by a major industry manufacturer to grow their market presence by showing willful disregard for the livestock in question. In response to this issue raised by our valued clients and various members in the marine provider and consumer industry we will be offering a "buyback" of all Tetra products within our own client base (freshwater & marine) and will be contacting various product manufacturers who will be willing to put their products in front of our customers. If you have any products made by the company in question, please contact your service provider as soon as possible for pickup, credit, and replacement of the items. We apologize for any inconvenience this has caused, and we assure you as a company we are dedicated to the proper care and selection of all marine livestock to be displayed in your aquatic exhibits. Sincerely, Rich Watson Director of Sales & Client Development AquariaUSA watson@aquariausa.com www.aquariausa.com "

This is becoming the single most popular thread on ReefCentral, and probably of all time by the end of this week. Seems as though a few people have also gone a step further (the second segment where Tetra put Piranha into a tank -which is illegal in NY), and contacted the ASPCA Legal Department, etc. So far the response from Tetra gmbh has been to contact TetraUSA. I doubt any response will be given, but just remember next time you visit any store to avoid their products. We all know there are so many better alternatives for dry foods, etc. it's just a shame a major company has done something like this on National TV, thus helping to end our hobby in the long run, and increase mortality rates amongst wild caught specimens. Thanks for WAMAS help! Much appreciated! Thanks to Tamie & Bob too! (Dentists & Aquarists...what a match outside of Nemo! haha)

We are always in need of macro algae! If anyone needs to thin out their tanks, etc. please call or email us and we will pickup! I plan on being at Saturday's meeting, and would love to pick some up whether a small bag or bucket full! I am always running out of caulerpa's, gracilaria, and halimeda. Thanks, Rich watson@aquariausa.com