Early Planning Stages, new 150g

[Grav]

I'm planning to set up a 5 * 2 * 2 ft 150g tank.  Why not go with a 180? I think a 5 ft tank will look better in the spot I want to put it in... but I might change my mind later. I've been thinking of getting a custom tank, class gass cages... something like that.

 

A few thoughts I'd like some feedback on...

 

The tank:  Any down side to getting a custom, IE not AGA or other "factory" tank?  

 

Over flows.  Instead of two corner overflows, I was thinking a single one in the center.  THEN I had the idea of having the back drilled instead of the bottom and having an overflow box that didn't need to go to the bottom of the tank. I've also thought about the Durso standpipes and making a 90 degree turn to modify them.   Has anyone ever tried any of this?  Concerns?  Sound crazy?

 

Lighting: Comparing 2 * 400w MH vrs 3 * 250w MH. PLUS 2*140 VHO vrs T-5s .  Since 400w and 250w MH bulb cost about the same, and the ballasts are close in price the 2*400 system would save a few bucks in the long run.  Right?  And the T-5s sure they might be smaller, but they don't put off as much light as the VHOs... I'm leaning toward VHO.

 

One of the nice things about a 5 ft wide tank is that I could do a 55g for the sump.  Would this be big enough for a sump AND fuge, or should I have two.  Say two 29gs?

 

Really have no clue with this stuff, all thoughts and suggestions very welcome.  I've gotten quite good with my over sized nano 33g for the past 2 years, but this is all new.

 

Thanks!

 

Phil

[Lee Stearns]

Grav,

Good luck. Let me know if you need help- 5' seemed difficult to light.48" and 72" are kind of the comercial ligting standards, at least in flourecents. I couldn't be happier with 10K DE 250 Hqi's with E-ballasts. 2'x2' each seems about right for bright white lighting- which would also support the 4 foot or the 6 foot tank theory- I personally would go with the 2x2x6 if you have the wall space. If I recall the basement space you are looking at does not have the capability to put the fuge behind the wall rather than under the cabinet. Seems like we always want to hang something like a kalc reactor, lime water drip tank, phos reactor, mechanical filter pump or something that just doesnt fit under the cabinet. So I wouldn't use the entire space under for tanks, sump or fuge. I have the 50G breeder split between sump and fuge 1/3, 2/3 and except for how low I set it I have no complaints so far. The only reason I see for the fuge is a grow out place for macro as a nutrient sump-And a pod breeding ground. The sump on the otherhand has many things that can be accomplished in near and around it, not the least of which is skimming. So If I were redoing my Fuge sump I would reverse the portionment-1/3 Fuge and 2/3 sump for more working area. If you need some plexiglass, tools, or another pair of hands moving the stuff around give me a call.

Regards,

Lee

[michaelg]

Personally, I would do seperate fuge from sump, and plumb them together.  I know it is easier to just have 1 tank, but having it seperated, makes changing something down the road, in the event of a problem, easier.

[krish]

To support Michael's statement,

Having the Fuge seperate and fed by gravity will leave the pods alive.

Not that fish don't eat dead pods.

The way i have the fuge is in the back of the display tank and is elevated.

It is fed by a small powerhead from the display.

It drains by gravity into the display.

 

Regarding the return, i would go with 2 returns instead of

one.

 

The durso  with a 90 degree sounds ok. But you would

have to build an external durso. The mini overflow box

will drain into a vertical pipe that is behind the tank. The

vertical pipe will need a PVC cap and you can drill a small

hole at the top or side of the  cap for purging the air.

I have a 42G in trial run with such a setup. This was

per Michael's idea.

 

Thanks

-krish

[eddi]

Phil,

 

I realize this may be bucking the trend, but why have an overflow at all?  What exactly does an overflow buy you, especially if you have a big enough refugium?  Have 4 holes drilled, use two for drains and two for returns.

 

I would also strongly recommend a separate sump and refugium, connected together.  I realize space is an issue, but if you can swing it I think you'll be glad in the long run.

[HowardofNOVA]

Phil,

I have 3 holes drilled at the TRT for 1" Bulkheads, 600g per hr outflow each. Works great for me and all you have is outflow pipes.

More space to add more things that will cost you more $

4 holes might even work better for your larger tank.

2 recommendations on this,

1 is that to drill a small air hole so that in the event of a power outage, very little water will go out when back suction will be lost and 2, space them to the corners.

Howard

[Guest Leishman]

I too like the 60" tank.  I am getting, (I hope), a new tank that will be 65x36x35.  Right now I have a 60" RR Oceanic tank that I am HOPING to be able to sell in Aug/Sept when I upgrade.  It's a 110g, (60½ X 18½ X 25), it has two built in corner overflows.

The only draw back w/60", is lighting.  2 MH, not enough, (unless you have SE bulbs w/Luminarc reflectors), 3 is kind of over kill.

[Grav]

Thanks much everyone for the feedback.  Is the thought that 2, 250w MH are not enough?  That is what I was thinking, so leaning toward 400s. I'd put both close together, offering one  great location for the hightest light requiring SPSs.   VHOs do come in 60" lengths they are 140w... So I'd have 800w of MH and 280w of blue... in a 150...

 

Does ANYONE think that is short on light?  I ONLY WANT TO BUY ONE LIGHTING SET UP FOR THIS TANK.... EVER.

 

Okay, on the overflow situation... this is REALLY bucking the trend.  Consider this, and tell me where I'm crazy.

 

Imagin, if you will, an over flow box that looks just like what is in so many tanks, but instead of running vertically up and down a corner, it runs horizontally across the length (or not quite the full lenght) of the top, back of the tank.  This is all dead space in most tanks, and other than lighting (I'll have a full 2 feet front to back so space in the canopy shouldn't be too tight) it doesn't get in the way of anything.  

 

Then behind it 3, 4, maybe 5 holes are drilled.  Now, think of the top of a Durso,  drain pipe... now imagin that the down turned 90 half is inside that craze overflow and the pipe, the end cap with the hole drilled in it... everything else is outside the tank.  At least in my head I see a "waterfall" across the back wall with minimal lost usable tank space and a "clean, organized" look.

 

 

OR since this is my 1st "real" tank, should I not do anything too crazy?

[Guest Leishman]

on my 60" I initially had 2x250w 10k DE AB bulbs with 3x140w (60") actinic VHOs and it was V bright.  I now run 3x48" VHO acinics with the MHs and it is plenty.

[Guest tgallo]

check out other members tanks durring the tank tours, you will get plenty of options then.I would say go for the biggest tank you can squeeze into place, drill the tank for supply's and returns now while you still have the chance.

[eddi]

Phil,

 

Thinking outside the box is always a good idea, (oh my God, I sound like my Sr. Management) but what will the horizontal overflow buy you?  Sounds like an awful lot of customization for little in return.

 

I would go with the 400s.  On a 2' high tank you will have temperature issues, make sure you design the canopy high enough to both give you room to reach in the tank as well as heat dissipation.

 

One light set up, ever?  Dream on!

[krish]

With 2 400W's in there, you are looking at a chiller buddy

Well, i have 3 250's on top of my 4ft long tank.

The lamps are around 12" high from the water level. I have 2 fans in

the canopy that turn on when the chiller kicks in. This is a back up

in case the chiller quits for some reason.

 

-krish

[Grav]

Hmmmm, a chiller is not something I had planed for.  So would most think it better to go with 3*250???  

 

Actually the location I'd like to go with (and will allow for "back room" plumbing has only 6.5 ft of space foor to celling... but it is in the basement, usually a cooler area of the house. It's right below an AC vent... which is a heat vent in the winter... lot to think about here.  Glad you guys brought it up.  

 

Thanks all again for the feedback, more more more