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what can a float switch handle?


phisigs79

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I was wondering how much a float switch can handle. I recently upgraded my top off pump to a 140 gph pump that has a power comsumption of 8.5 watts and it worked for a day and then caused the switch to stick open. Luckly my resisvor only had about 3 gallons so it didnt overflow. I didnt think a pump this small could of done this so i need a solution so that this doesnt happen again. (FYI-I needed to upgrade to a bigger pump to hook up my kalk reactor since it sits kind of high and then feeds into my overflow.)

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Guest HVF21221

Here is a simple way to use a top off pump. It uses DC voltage for the float switch. This is easier on the switch which will last longer and safer for you sticking your hands in tank/sump.

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Here is a simple way to use a top off pump. It uses DC voltage for the float switch. This is easier on the switch which will last longer and safer for you sticking your hands in tank/sump.

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the part number for the relay was a 1 amp relay and in the radio shack computer it says .5 amp but the package is pretty old and says 1amp. Will this work?

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will a 200 ma power supply work as well or does it need to be 500ma?

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weren't we supposed to get togethre on this?

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i thought we were getting together on the resisvor/ solenoid float switch fix not the resisvor to sump solution but if its possible to do both then i will wait. I bought all the stuff i needed except for one more float switch because the guy that i bought them from owes me one because he never sent one to me.

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Mine seams to work well. I have my RO/DI attached to my sump as well as my resevior for making water. When I have eveporation it works to fill up the sump. If it should happen to get stuck I have an overflow hose that drains to a nearby drain. This works very well and the worst that will happen if the solenoid stops working is the salinity will slowly decrease, but I will not get any flooding and the RO/DI only makes like 100gal per day so it would take sometime before the salinity level becomes dangerous.

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Keep it simple tends to be the rule in my opinion.

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Keep it simple tends to be the rule in my opinion.

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The problem with your setup is when your sump gets low then the R/O unit only produces a small amount of water to top the sump. Anything less than 5g means that the water quality isn't as good. To get around this i will have a high and a low switch on my resisvor to keep water quality. Then i will have a pump hooked up my kalk reactor and then to my sump by a float switch. I dont see this as being a simple setup because of other factors.

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Having run a "latching system" for RO direct to sump top off you run into 1 dilema = you add too much water @ one time to run it through a Kalk reactor (PH spike).....OR....you set the upper & lower limits so close that, as mentioned, you don't get the best water (well, you can but it's hard on the DI cartridge).

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Having run a "latching system" for RO direct to sump top off you run into 1 dilema = you add too much water @ one time to run it through a Kalk reactor (PH spike).....OR....you set the upper & lower limits so close that, as mentioned, you don't get the best water (well, you can but it's hard on the DI cartridge).

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NO no, what i mean is latching system is in a water resisvor ( empty 10g tank). That tank has a pump that is attached to a switch in the sump. When the water is low in the sump, then the pump in the water resisvor turns on and runs through the kalk reactor and then into the sump (through a float valve). The latching system is just for the resisvor, it has nothing to do with water running into the sump so the spike of PH is non exsistent unless there is a high evaporation rate which could be resolved with a doser ( which would extend the amount of time that the water is replenished in the sump rather than one big dump of kalk into the tank)

 

I would never run the RO directly to a tank just in case. The way i have it setup IMO is pretty secure. LMK if you all think there is something i dont see.

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Wow and I was so proud of my setup. I have had it set up for a couple of months and it has run well. I will say I have had all kinds of aquariums both fresh and salt over the years but this is my first attempt at making my system automated and able to grow corals and stuff. I would love to see some schematics and all. I am trying to keep mine simple, but I also want it to work correctly. I never even considered or was aware of the RO/DI unit not working as well unless it produces at least 5 gal or so. Why is this? I do not have a calcium reactor. I still need to review that stuff a bit. Well I appreciate the feedback even though I was not the one who posted the question.

David

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NO no, what i mean is latching system........................

Sorry :lol: if that wasn't clear - I was just referring to issues with latching systems in general, not referring to any(ones) specific setup.

 

Nice idea - latch the topoff tank.

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