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Another dead DC3000


DCReefer1964

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Well after 2 months of use I have another dead Waveline DC3000. My EHIEM 1060 that is about 20 years old still works. Not a happy camper right now!!!

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Yes but have not heard back from them yet. I was always told apples only comes from apples. I feel the same about lemons. For 2 to fail is not a good gamble for me. 

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I'm curious, did you run it submerged or out of the water (like in a recirculating skimmer configuration)? I had two first generation DC5000's fail and replaced them with DC6000's provided by the manufacturer.

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My DC5000 is still operational after 6 months. No problems with it (yet).

 

I just picked up a 3500 (the octopus version) to power my ca and media reactors... hoping it holds up under pressure.

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My DC5000 is still operational after 6 months. No problems with it (yet).

 

I just picked up a 3500 (the octopus version) to power my ca and media reactors... hoping it holds up under pressure.

Wade, if it's operating as a return pump and is submerged, it will probably last a while. The problem with them (according to the manufacturer in emails that I exchanged with them) is that a component inside the body of the main pump fails and distorts a feedback signal back to the controller. The controller then refuses to start the pump up. I've had 2 of 2 fail in just about a year's time, and know a small business that had close to 85% of them fail in a similar time period. The problem is said to have been resolved in the second generation of pumps. The failure is attributed to a temperature problem which is exacerbated in out-of-the-water applications like you'd see on most recirculating skimmers that mount the pump on the side (rather than the underside of the body.

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Wondering if I should reconsider getting a DC4000 for my build?

The new generation of pumps is said to have corrected the problem in the first generation.

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Good to know.  I wonder if you could hardwire the pump to bypass the cheapo controls they include to make it work again. Just need the right output voltage.

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Good to know.  I wonder if you could hardwire the pump to bypass the cheapo controls they include to make it work again. Just need the right output voltage.

The problem's not so much in the controller, but in the pump body (I'm told). I'm not sure that I believe that 100% as I've seen my failed pumps try to start, but then shut down after a fraction of a second.

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Wondering if I should reconsider getting a DC4000 for my build?

Pickup a Tunze Silence Pro.  They are great. 1073.020.

 

Adjustable output and low power consumption:

Edited by BowieReefer84
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You have to be careful of freshwater specific pumps - often their seals are insufficient for long term use in marine aquaria (if it is specified as a pond pump especially) - too much grit will make them fail early.

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I'm curious, did you run it submerged or out of the water (like in a recirculating skimmer configuration)? I had two first generation DC5000's fail and replaced them with DC6000's provided by the manufacturer.

No Gami ran submerged as a return pump. I opened the pump end and it looked brand new. As far as the water conditions crystal clear. When I unplug it and then return to service said system it began to make a little noise. This was a manufacturer replacement. That said Old Eheim came to the rescue. I had plans to try a DC pump on My Bubble King mimi 180 but bubble blaster may be a better choice or PSK. Considering the cost of the RD pump

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No Gami ran submerged as a return pump. I opened the pump end and it looked brand new. As far as the water conditions crystal clear. When I unplug it and then return to service said system it began to make a little noise. This was a manufacturer replacement. That said Old Eheim came to the rescue. I had plans to try a DC pump on My Bubble King mimi 180 but bubble blaster may be a better choice or PSK. Considering the cost of the RD pump

If you take off the volute cover and power the pump up, and the rotor spins for a fraction of a second before quitting  - then this is the symptom of the thermal failure. It's more common in non-submerged case, but I've heard of it happening in submerged installations, too. Google it and you'll see discussion about it starting about last Spring or so.

 

I keep a Bubble Blaster 3000 on the shelf as a backup skimmer pump and had to use it for a couple of months this past year as I awaited the DC6000's. The Bubbleblaster 3000 pulls about 1200-1500 lph (42 - 53 scfh) of air while the PSK 1000 pulls about 28 scfh (793 lph). The Bubbleblaster HY2000 draws 960 lph and may be the closest match for the PSK. The Diablo DC3500 reportedly draws 900 lph, so it may also be a good option, though I don't know the reliability yet of these Diablos.

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