Djplus1 August 17, 2013 Share August 17, 2013 Upon further inspection, my sump is simply too small for anything I want to do. Now the plan is to run my AquaC 180 EV, and two Avast MR5 reactors off of one pump using simple Avast supplied gate valves on both reactors using strictly vinyl tubing. Is this doable or am I asking for trouble? I need about 700-900 gph for the skimmer and I currently run both reactors with a single Cobalt MJ1200. My concerns are that the vinyl tubing being restricted so much on the reactors could cause the tubes to pop off and spray water everywhere. Is this a real possibility? Part B or the question is how big of a pump do I realistically need? Could I get by with an Eheim 1262 or Sicce Synchra 4 or should I be looking at the Speedwave 1320 gph pump.? The sump is an Eshopps RS 75 and the skimmer has to be internal since the sump walls are so high. Unless, I can drill the side of the sump and run the AquaC outlet through the sump wall.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k August 17, 2013 Share August 17, 2013 I run an avast pellet reactor and the feed for the avast skimmer with an MJ600. I'm willing to bet I could add 2 reactors if I used an MJ1200 and still might need a valve to restrict the flow. I use vinyl tubing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Djplus1 August 17, 2013 Author Share August 17, 2013 That's basically what I'm doing now Rob. The question is regarding to the vinyl tubing being restricted to regulate flow of a 1000+ GPH pump as I want to run my 180 ev on it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Djplus1 August 17, 2013 Author Share August 17, 2013 Or even better yet, could I just get a Speedwave 2640 gph and run my return,skimmer and 2 MR5's off of that using strictly vinyl tubing and gate valves? Anyone doing something like this with a whole lot of vinyl tubing? Hard plumbing is probably not an option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
YHSublime August 17, 2013 Share August 17, 2013 Just use plastic clamps. I've definitely had vinyl tubing pop off before I had clamps, turned my pump into a wave maker in my sump, lucky I was home at the time, or it would have been a fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimlin August 17, 2013 Share August 17, 2013 Or even better yet, could I just get a Speedwave 2640 gph and run my return,skimmer and 2 MR5's off of that using strictly vinyl tubing and gate valves? Anyone doing something like this with a whole lot of vinyl tubing? Hard plumbing is probably not an option. i have one pump running my whole tank through a manifold. everything is connected to the manifold with vinyl tubing. i find myself now needing a valve on the line after the manifold in order to get more flow to the reactors/uv. water is currently traveling in the path with the least amount of resistance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Djplus1 August 17, 2013 Author Share August 17, 2013 i have one pump running my whole tank through a manifold. everything is connected to the manifold with vinyl tubing. i find myself now needing a valve on the line after the manifold in order to get more flow to the reactors/uv. water is currently traveling in the path with the least amount of resistance. You wouldn't happen to have a pic of that setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimlin August 17, 2013 Share August 17, 2013 BRK sells better manifolds than what i am currently using. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Djplus1 August 17, 2013 Author Share August 17, 2013 So you think I can run my return at about 500 GPH, my skimmer at about 700-900, and the 2 mr5's by using a manifold like yours, with no issues? You don't have any problems with leaks with the vinyl hose, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimlin August 17, 2013 Share August 17, 2013 no leaks. i dont use clamps on tight fittings, use zip ties for hoses located under water/over water and metal ones for hoses that i think might leak in the future. i did notice a loss of gph by using the manifold, but using v instead of t and not using the check valve may be more efficient. the dc pump you chose should be able to work with the manifold. you can zip tie all the hoses just to be on the safe side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Djplus1 August 21, 2013 Author Share August 21, 2013 (edited) BRK sells better manifolds than what i am currently using. So, is that basically three valves connected together with an open end for the input and a cap on the end? I was thinking running my pump out 1" ID to a contraption like yours and have three out puts at 5/8" ID to my skimmer and two reactors. Am I looking at this the right way? Edited August 21, 2013 by Djplus1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimlin August 21, 2013 Share August 21, 2013 i am using 3/4 return hoses which goes into my tank. the water will go through a check valve before it goes into the display. three valves are 3/4 in as well with 5/8 nipples attached. if you are going this route i suggest you put a valve to control the amount of water going to the display in order to force water to go to the reactors and skimmers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zygote2k August 21, 2013 Share August 21, 2013 The picture above is a fire waiting for the right conditions. Those power strips with built in timers are poorly constructed and the fact that you have it so close to water makes it more likely to have issues. Power supplies get hot too and need to be kept in a cool dry place. You also have a sump to contain a skimmer and return pump and the water from the tank; why are you pumping water outside of it and using hoses without clamps when doing so? Using zipties instead of hose clamps for dry connections is strange too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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