swimmatte March 15, 2013 March 15, 2013 Does anyone use the Captive Purity PRO RO/RODI unit? If so, I have a question about the install/plumbing. I just bought one used and it came with no hoses, so I'm having trouble figuring out what goes to what. The membrane has three quick connects on it, one on the left, and two on the right. There is also a quick connect on each of the two chambers. I was able to figure out that the single quick connect on the left of the membrane runs to the left chamber, and I figure the untreated water supply runs into the right chamber. After that, I'm lost. One of the two quick connects coming off the right side of the membrane has a pressure gauge on it. Any help?
howaboutme March 15, 2013 March 15, 2013 (edited) I don't have this brand (I use Purely H2O) but I believe most RODI units are arranged and operate similarly. During my research, I believe I came across instructions for your model, check Marine Depot. I believe they provide a download. Alternatively, you can check any other RODI unit's website (like SpectraPure, Purely H2O, Air, Water, Ice, etc) and use their instructions. As long as you know what canister is what (RO membrane, DI membrane, etc), you can figure it out. It's not too complicted. You will, however, need to buy 1/4" flex tubing and color coded will make your life easier too. As far as installing it to your plumbing, a lot just attach it to their sinks (buy the adapter). I use a saddle valve (at Lowes or HD) personally while others will modify their water lines w/ a T connection, etc. There are a few possible ways to do it. Good luck. Edited March 15, 2013 by howaboutme
swimmatte March 15, 2013 Author March 15, 2013 Thanks, I was able to find this on Marinedepot, however it assumes you are dealing with a new product, with the tubing already in place. http://www.f3images.com/imd/usermanuals/cp1141.pdf I guess what I can do is set it all up but do not connect the tubing coming from the two quick connects on the right, put the tubes in a bucket, and turn on the water. The one that water sprays from will be my RO, and the one that doesn't should be my waste. I am correct with this thinking right? I don't know what the other one could be besides waste.
howaboutme March 15, 2013 March 15, 2013 Do you have any tubing at all? Meaning, do you have any tubing connection the 1 stage (sediment filter) to the 2nd stage (carbon), etc? If you don't have those, the water will not even travel to the RO filter (3rd stage). Check these instructions, they will tell you how each stage works (how the water travels) and has some diagrams. This will help you figure out how to connect your system. Your system might be configured differently so just be aware of which filter is what. http://purelyh2o.com/manuals/optima.pdf http://www.spectrapure.com/manuals/PRINTER_FRIENDLY/MARINE-PRO-DI.pdf You should post a picture of your system. Then I and I think a few other's here know RODI's well can help. You should also buy new filter/membranes if your system is old. Check w/ TDS just to make sure. You need to check 3 times, from tap, after RO, then after DI to know how each filter is working.
swimmatte March 15, 2013 Author March 15, 2013 Right now the only tubing connects the filters to the membrane. For my plan I would hook my water supply up the the "IN" line on the filter part, connect filters to membrane, then just run a tube from each of the membrane out lines. I have new filters as well. I am confident that I understand how it works, my issue is that there are two "OUTS" on the right side of the membrane that are not labeled at all. I will post a pic soon.
howaboutme March 16, 2013 March 16, 2013 Did you get this straightened out? I just looked at my unit and I have the in line going in on one side directly into the sediment filter, which then is directly connected (no flex tube) to the carbon filter. From there, I have a line that splits. One goes to the pressure gauge while the other goes to the RO. Could this split be the 2 "outs" you're talking about? From the RO, the line then goes to the DI and then out to waste and RODI water. Good luck.
swimmatte March 16, 2013 Author March 16, 2013 I still haven't quite figured it out but here's some pictures to see if they help.
howaboutme March 16, 2013 March 16, 2013 Ok, I'm pretty sure the 2 outlets is for the waste and to the DI. My RO has 2 outs as well (even though I wasn't clear on that in my previous post). One is waste and the other to the DI. You need to figure out which one is waste and which one is to the DI. My guess is the one from the gauge is to the DI but can't be for sure since I don't have this unit. If no one else chimes in here, I suggest you post on RC or TRT where I am sure you will find plenty of others w/ this system.
swimmatte March 16, 2013 Author March 16, 2013 I'm going to hit home depot today to try and get the fittings I need to make my connections. We'll see what happens! Thanks!
onux20 March 16, 2013 March 16, 2013 Marine depot has great customer service. Try calling them for an official walk thru on the unit.
onux20 March 16, 2013 March 16, 2013 Marine depot has great customer service. Try calling them for an official walk thru on the unit.
Origami March 17, 2013 March 17, 2013 Normally, the port whose origination is more centrally located is the pure water port. The one closer to the edge is the waste water port. In this case, the one with the brass fitting is on the waste water side. If you were to run water through the membrane, more water will come out the waste side than the pure side. There should be a flow restrictor of some sort on the waste side. It may be a small hard plastic tube inserted in the tubing. Did this system come with any other hardware? Though it depends on the temperature of the water, you should see about 4 to 6 times more water coming out of the waste water side than on the pure water side. If you see this, it's probably got the flow restrictor in there and I just can't see it. It looks like you have an RO (reverse osmosis) system. I don't see a DI (de-ionizing) stage. Probably image B-3 in the manual that you linked to above. It does not produce RO/DI water, but RO water. You may want to consider adding a DI resin stage to the pure water output to make RO/DI water.
swimmatte March 17, 2013 Author March 17, 2013 Normally, the port whose origination is more centrally located is the pure water port. The one closer to the edge is the waste water port. In this case, the one with the brass fitting is on the waste water side. If you were to run water through the membrane, more water will come out the waste side than the pure side. There should be a flow restrictor of some sort on the waste side. It may be a small hard plastic tube inserted in the tubing. Did this system come with any other hardware? Though it depends on the temperature of the water, you should see about 4 to 6 times more water coming out of the waste water side than on the pure water side. If you see this, it's probably got the flow restrictor in there and I just can't see it. It looks like you have an RO (reverse osmosis) system. I don't see a DI (de-ionizing) stage. Probably image B-3 in the manual that you linked to above. It does not produce RO/DI water, but RO water. You may want to consider adding a DI resin stage to the pure water output to make RO/DI water. Thanks. I hooked everything up today and the port with the brass fitting had high pressure water coming from it while the other one had only a little. For some reason I couldn't get the first chamber to stop leaking so I need to figure out how to seat it right. This system only came with what you see in the pictures, but I only paid $30 so that's to be expected. Question, why should I see more water coming from the waste side, and where should the waste side run to? I figured it would be a very small amount of water, and I'd just run it to a drain, but that's not the case.
Origami March 17, 2013 March 17, 2013 Waste side goes to the drain. Some people recycle it, using it for laundry or the garden. But most, I'm guessing, run it down the drain. (Sent from my phone)
howaboutme March 17, 2013 March 17, 2013 It looks like you have an RO (reverse osmosis) system. I don't see a DI (de-ionizing) stage. Probably image B-3 in the manual that you linked to above. It does not produce RO/DI water, but RO water. You may want to consider adding a DI resin stage to the pure water output to make RO/DI water. Yeah, I did notice this and just assumed that the DI canister was out of the picture. You really should get a separate DI canister, they aren't that expensive I don't believe. It'll get your TDS down to 0. For the waste, I just put it down my washer's drain.
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