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Metal Halide bulb not firing


Chad

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I just have to say this. Reading this thread makes me really appreciate the expert skill sets and willingness to help that we have here at WAMAS.

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OK, so the ballast is the transformer, cap, and ignitor? Should I just suck it up and replace the ballast parts?

Yes, the ballast is the transformer and cap, and sometimes an ignitor. Ignitors are used with HPS and a few MH like an HQI. An ignitor costs less than a whole kit so I would just try that first.

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Tom, I wholly agree with you!

The broad experience base, expertise in a wide array of topics, and willingness to share is great.

 

David, thanks, I'm going to swing by grainger tonight and see if I can locate one.

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So, it's definitely not the lamp...

 

I borrowed a fixture with another bulb and my fairly new one fired on it and the borrowed one didn't fire using my ballast. Unfortunately, I ended up working later than the grainger was open, so I was unable to get a new part. My wife says she'll head out tomorrow.

 

Hah, this heads into the weekend and I might shift to frantically finishing my languishing LED project.

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Grainger tells me part 3A534 is "close," (it's for a High Pressure Sodium, Lamp Watts 150 to 400) but I'm not sure if a $78 bet on an unreturnable part that isn't specifically what I was looking for is good. What do y'all think? (It's certainly less than the ~200 for the ballast that I'd use to cannibalize and update my existing equipment).

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That price is crazy high. Call an electrical supply place nearby. The ignitors should only be about $15 and a whole ballast kit should run about $75.

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I agree Grainger is crazy expensive...I like the idea of finishing that LED project in lieu of fixing the ballast...we've only been waiting for years... :)

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OK. Thanks for the feedback!

 

I'll see what else I can find... I really would like this back up tonight!

 

John, I'd love to finish it up, the really sad thing about it is how close it really is... At this point it's more a likely the process of digging everything out of the boxes, setting it back up and figuring out where I was will likely take longer than finishing it!

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If you really want it back up tonight you could try one more thing. Since the ignitor is not triggering properly remove it from the circuit and wire it bypassed. You would need to remove it anyways to replace it so just do it now and try this. With it removed the bulb wired directly to the ballast and cap might just light without the ignitor kicking in that extra starting voltage. A normal 250w MH doesn't have an ignitor at all.

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Well, I pulled the ignitor and tried it... Unfortunately, that didn't work. Oh well replacing parts it is!

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