Water Testing + Stability

[Squishie89]

I am fine with testing high range pH, ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. But getting into things like calcium, magnessium, alkalinity, I am not so good at. I have tried API (for calcium) and Red Sea for CA, Mg, Alk. Any suggestions for easier tests for those last three? I have heard good things about Salifert and I am going to try and purchase them soon.

 

My other issue/concern is keeping things stable. My ammonia has been either zero or relatively close to 0 (I don't 100% believe my API test kit, but my Seachem monitor says 0, and LFS says 0). My Nitrates are between 10-20ppm. I have issues also keeping my salinity stable, it is usually all over the chart in the "okay/safe" area. This has been due to skimmer issues for the most part, and making sure water change water is at the right level.

 

And for referance, I have a 90g tank with an ~20g sump with a small refugium, 10g ATO. Tank was set up in September, plan on doing a FOWLR and Inverts tank (currently only 2 clown fish, shrimp, urchin, crabs, snails). All fish and inverts are thriving, I even have feather dusters growing and doing well. I do plan to have a clam(or more than one) and an anemone, so stable water conditions are a must. I currently use Instant ocean salt, 15-20% water changes every other week (just did one yesterday) with RODI water (TDS= 0).

[Origami]

I use API for a quick check on calcium. However, I'll also use Salifert if I want to cross check the API. I use Sea Chem for magnesium. It's a complicated test but once you do it a few times, you'll get the hang of it. I'll also use API for a quick check on alkalinity (which I'll test more frequently than the other parameters). For accuracy, I use my Hanna checker (which I'll test against an alkalinity standard if I question the results I'm seeing).

 

API's alk test kit is about as simple as it gets.

 

I don't test for ammonia any longer unless something really seems wrong. But, it's wise to always keep a fresh kit on the shelf. If something does go wrong, it's one of those things you don't want to waste time going out to get.

 

Personally, I stopped using Red Sea test kits years ago when one test kept giving me the same (inaccurate) calcium reading.

 

Why, if you're using an ATO are you having trouble keeping your salinity stable? Three questions:

1) Are you topping off with fresh water?

2) What kind of ATO do you have?

3) What are you using to measure your salinity? if you're using a cheap $5 hydrometer, I'd recommend that you invest in a refractometer.

[Squishie89]

Why, if you're using an ATO are you having trouble keeping your salinity stable? Three questions:

1) Are you topping off with fresh water?

2) What kind of ATO do you have?

3) What are you using to measure your salinity? if you're using a cheap $5 hydrometer, I'd recommend that you invest in a refractometer.

1) Yes, RODI water.

2. ReefAngel controller ATO

3. I use the PinPoint Salinity Monitor- http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?c=3578+4690+4486&pcatid=4486

The problem was the skimmer cup would fill with water, which I would then dump in the sink because most of the time it had gunk in it, and then the ATO would go off due to the loss of water. So there was more fresh water being put in than there should be normally. And I would say I am not the best at making sure each batch of SW for the WC is the same salinity.

[zygote2k]

Get yourself a Refractometer and chuck the swing-arm hydrometer. The salinity monitor needs to be kept clean at the bulb end in order to get accurate readings. IMO, it's an unnecessary device if you have a refractometer.

If you want down and dirty, quick and crude test results, use a dip stick test kit. Cheap and easy to use too.

You should still have a set of good test kits like Salifert. You should tend to use whichever test kit has a reputation for accuracy and repeatability. If cost is not an issue, then go with LaMotte or Hach, otherwise stick to Salifert.

Like Tom says, I never test Ammonia or Nitrite unless a serious issue is on hand. I stick with the basic 4-

Nitrate, Calcium, Alkalinity, Phosphate. pH can be measured via probe but like the salinity monitor, needs to be cleaned periodically.

[Origami]

Jessica, you need to fix that skimmer overflow situation before it causes you much more than just an annoyance and, instead, causes you heartbreak. It sounds like you're skimming really wet or that the skimmer is poor at holding it's level. There are several ways that you can deal with this. Some methods turn off the skimmer once it's full. Others overflow the cup back into the reaction chamber. Can you please post a few pictures of your skimmer setup from a few angles so we can see how you're set up?

 

If you get a refractometer, it'll be easy to check the salinity of your change water. Don't ignore this basic parameter.

[jackers]

I use the following test kits:

Ca: twice a week - Elos (Thinking of switching to Salifert)

Alk: twice a week - Salifert

Mag: twice a month - Elos

Phosphate: once a week - Hana

Salinity: after each water change - Refractometer

 

Yes, please post up your skimmer info. You shouldn't be getting that much wet skimmate.

[John]

Here is what I use:

 

Refractometer @ every water change (I also recommend purchasing calibration fluid, a tool is useless unless you can dial it in)

Tropic Marin Alkalinity Test, I test once a week or as needed if I am trying to adjust

Salifert Calcium Test, I test once a week or as needed if I am trying to adjust

 

I will admit I don't test Magneseum and probably should. As far as all other tests, I find them pointless unless you are trying to correct a problem or start a new tank.

Edited March 4, 2013 by John

[Squishie89]

Thank you everyone for your responses!

The skimmer situation is getting better. I figured out I was nit picking with the valve, and my skimmer takes a few hours to show the actual results of the change. Although the other day after a water change the skimmer was acting up, I then turned the valve down a bit and it settled down. Just a very picky skimmer. For reference I have a RO XP1000SSS . I will get some pictures of my set up tomorrow, here is a really crappy picture from almost a month ago-

I actually have a lot of trouble seeing and interpreting the results from a refractometer, but I will give it another go.

[Origami]

A couple of things of note:

 

1) I had a skimmer that foamed more right after water changes. Rather than messing with the skimmer adjustment, I would just pull the collection cup off for a few hours or overnight.

 

2) The sample cover on the refractometer needs to be flat against the sample plate, trapping a fairly uniform film of water between. If there are large bubbles or irregularities that you can see through the sample cover, then you'll likely have a non-distinct line when trying to take the measurement. A few important pieces of advice: Make sure that you get salinity calibration fluid and calibrate the refractometer from time to time. Also, realize that the refractometer has a rotating eyepiece to sharpen focus on the scale. Finally, I point my refractometer up into a light bulb or some similar source of bright light so that the measurement is readily observed.

[jamal]

i also have a pinpoint salinity monitor and have had no trouble with it. a refractometer would give me trouble because i would always put too much water on it which is why i got the probe. never looked back. anyway you may want to go to a fish store and have them show you how to do a test so you know and stick with that kit. salifert and lamotte are great. i recently started using the red sea kit and it has been very good as well. i guess they fixed the inconsistency issues.