120 stand

[Guest alex wlazlak]

do you think that i need those beams like you have? what thickness of plywood do you have on the top and bottom? i got some "half inch" but it looks more like 3/8inch, and i think im gonna double it up on the top and bottom. i might be putting some more 2x4's on the outside cornersfor some more strength so it doesnt collapse downward (if thats even possible now :D )(knock on wood) but thats what i got so far.

Edited October 19, 2005 by alex wlazlak

[ErikS]

You want the bad news first or the good news?

 

Bad news - I wouldn't put a tank on that stand, especially a glass tank. I'd rate the chance of failure @ 80% or higher.

 

Good news - Won't tank much at all to fix it. Just put some vertical supports between the upper & lower frames.

 

That type of construction works fine for general framing where some deflection is okay, unfortunately when constructing an aquarium stand deflection isn't okay. With that stand all the weight is hanging off the lag bolts - they will deflect eventually. Either the hole will enlarge (likey) or the bolts themselves will bend (unlikely). This will cause some deflection which will place strain on the seams & the glass itself. IMHO you'll most likely have a seam failure in a year or so.

 

As I mentioned it's a simple fix & it won't take a bit of extra room inside the stand. Just put vertical members in an "L" shape at the corners (see Folta's pics).

 

If you're using an AGA tank you need not put plywood on the top as the tank is wholly supported by the edges - the ply will do nothing. Same with the bottom, unless you want to make a shelf or a sealed "spill catch" it won't be doing anything. You can wrap the stand in as little as 1/4" ply & it will provide more than enough lateral stability.

 

FWIW - this may or may not matter. With the vertical members inside the lower frame you have created point load stresses. All the weight is transferred directly to the points where the vertical members contact the floor (in small areas). This can make it tougher for a floor to carry the load (if say the points where between joists). As an example look at a couch on a rug - move the couch & you'll see the "dents" in the carpet = point loads.

 

It's an easy fix, not to worry & this is how we learn about structure & loads.

[Guest alex wlazlak]

not exactly what id like to hear :bigcry: .but in the picture below, the black things would be 2x4's cut to length and then put in. on the corners i will put another make it into an L type shape. would that be the solution?? p.s. ill do the same to the other side...

Edited October 19, 2005 by alex wlazlak

[ErikS]

You got it - as I said an easy fix............if you used 2x6 in the corners I doubt you'd need the center vertical support. Given support at the edges & the extra width I would think the lag bolts would hold.

 

On the other hand...........with the supports @ the edges & the center support the current supports would be redundant (free up some interior space).

 

Either way it's a simple fix.

[Guest alex wlazlak]

alrighty. thanks alot for your advice. there was a picture of howards (i think) that is his new stand and i pretty much used his idea and the side supports were on it. more pics to come hopfuly this week.

[ErikS]

Keep up the good work - not much beats the satisfaction of saying "I built it myself"

[Folta]

Alex, I was just wondering when you are planning on getting the 120. Once you have the stand completed and home, you'll be itching to get that tank and set it up, I bet!

 

I have to second the 'fixes' that you're going to make to the stand. The weight really pushes down on the perimeter of the tank, and vertical supports directly underneath where the load is pushing is a good plan.

 

Keep us updated!

[Guest alex wlazlak]

ive got the tank sitting in the basement. so im ready. we were sopposed to add on, but im not couning on it anymore, so ill probly end up setting it up in the basement. i gotta wait until christmass to get moeny and ill buy a skimmer and get a sump and proble a few more lights if i can find cheap pc's. possibly from people who are selling them used from the site. but rite now ive just gotta stay patient!

[geofloors]

I tried to post some pics of my 280g stand but the system will not all me to post img tags. Anyway follow this link to see the stand.

 

http://www.cmas-md.org/cgi-bin/ib3/ikonboa...t=ST;f=9;t=4259

 

 

George

[Guest alex wlazlak]

nice. what size lumber was it?

[geofloors]

It's all 2X6

 

Thanks,

George

[Guest alex wlazlak]

**WHAM** ive got the other suports on, and i got the top and bottom piece of ply on, but class ended and i couldnt get a picture.

[flowerseller]

Looking good Alex. You planning to face it with anything?

If you plan to put your sump under the tank but on the plywood, you will want to put a couple "ribs" front to back for support.

Do you get advise and instruction from your shop teacher?

I still remember my shop teachers names and the interest I had in that class.

It helped my GPA.

[Guest alex wlazlak]

yeah i layed down a piece and i put my hand on it and its pretty flimsy. shoud i make a X shape? im thinking thats the way to go..

Edited October 25, 2005 by alex wlazlak

[Folta]

Pieces that go from front to back, to give more support under the plywood.

 

Lookin good there Alex!

[flowerseller]

Not an X.

You have a front, a back and two sides.

Put a couple pieces like the sides spaced evenly in the middle on the bottom.

Tim, can you draw a picture?

[Folta]

Yep. Here we go:

 

 

 

This is the bottom part, staring down at it from the top.

[flowerseller]

Thanks Tim.

[Guest alex wlazlak]

only one in each side? i already have the middle one, but should i have 2 on each half?

[ErikS]

(we're talking the "floor" right?? )

 

Depends - what is the thickness of the ply? 3/8" ? What kind & how large of a sump? IF it's a glass tank/sump & it goes near the existing "edges" of the stand floor then you won't need any additional support (matters little if you can flex it in the middle, no weight will be carried there as a glass tank is supported at the rim).

 

If it's an acrylic sump then I'd add one "member" aka a sleeper on each side of the center support as the acrylic will be supported across it's full bottom (same would apply to a rimless aka glasscages style glass tank).

[Guest alex wlazlak]

i got them in and i have more pictures which ill post later.

[Guest alex wlazlak]

i have the ribs in but you cant really see them cause they are covered. the one thats drawn on is the view of the ribs.

[flowerseller]

Looks good Alex.

Congratulations!

[Guest alex wlazlak]

thanks. i am trying to figure out what kind of doors ill use. im using plybead on the whole thing and i dont know how or what kind of wood to use on the doors. the teacher got a raised pannel door kit and id like to use raised pannel doors on it but i dont know how to encorperate the plybead into it.

Edited October 26, 2005 by alex wlazlak

[rocko918]

small suggestion. Not sure what size sump u plan on putting in there, but you might want to create a door or a way to remove a Left or Right side panel as you wont be able to get a good size sump through that opening in the front. I had to take the side panel off of my 75 to get a 30 gallon high tank in the for a sump.

just something to think about.